Reassembled AR Trigger differently to get a lighter pull. Is this okay?

[FW]

During a thorough cleaning of a standard AR lower, I decided to try something. I reassembled the parts so the hammer spring goes under the trigger pin instead of on top of it in an attempt to lighten the trigger pull. It did significantly reduce the effort required to pull the trigger. While I have not fired it like this yet, the hammer seems to still have more tension on it than my other AR with a two stage competition trigger, so I'm assuming this will still strike primers with adequate force.

Would this in any way hurt anything? Could it be unsafe?

 

[dfariswheel]

Usually the people who do this trick, put ONE leg of the spring down, and the other leg in it's normal position.
The hammer spring locks the trigger pin in place and prevents it from "walking" out under recoil, so you need at least one leg up in position.

Another method is to slightly bend both legs of the hammer spring to remove some tension, but still insure proper trigger pin retention.

 

[Quack]

15 minute trigger job
here is some info, no i haven't done this....yet...

 

[boing]

I clipped off the hammer spring leg that doesn't retain the trigger pin (left side?). I had some light strikes with S&B, but that was with the hammer spring bent from a previous fiddling. I bent it back a bit, and it's been perfectly reliable. It's just a range toy, anyway.

 

[Steve Smith]

As other have stated, you need to ensure that the pins will stay put. Also make sure that you won't have bump fires because of the new setup.

 

[Mannlicher]

If you dont know, then don't do it.

 

[boing]

But...if you don't do it, how will you know?

Check Quack's link. It's the same info I went by when I did my Bushy. The advantage here is that this is a trick that's already been done by a lot of people, with predictable and (mostly) favorable results.

Just be sure you function test thoroughly afterwards.

 

[mark mcj]

The 15 min. trigger job works well for me. Since you can take the trigger group apart it should be a cinch for you. If the results are not what you like, you're out a whole $5 in springs. I even bobbed the hammer as desrcibed in the instructions and have over 1600 rounds on it with 0 malfunctions. The ammo used has been a mixture of Federal XM193 and South African surplus.
Along with the modifications to the springs, I also ran a 1/4X28 allen screw up the grip screw hole to get rid of most of take up in the trigger. If you decide to try this make sure your safety works when done. A little metal may have to be removed from the back of the trigger where it makes contact with the saftey. Go slow here it doesn't take much to make everything right. Also be sure to loctite the allen screw in there. Some of the grip screw may need to be ground off to be sure there is no contact of the allen screw too.

 

[BallisticTip]

I like to keep them all stock, not that mods are bad.

 

[BDM]

All you have to do is get the drop in components,bushmaster makes them with modified springs,the tails of the hammer spring are there for a reason,a good field rifle can have a trigger of 5.5 to 9.5 lbs that is acceptable on an AR or M16,dont mess with the spec you will throw your rifle off in the long run causing parts out of alignment or premature parts wear get the proper components,when you loosen up the hammer tension the carrier goes back harder and faster,just get the proper made springs and components they make drop in parts or have a smith install a set trigger dont go for the quick fix.