Glock 26 vs. Glock 27 reliability?

Status
Not open for further replies.
What beats the gun up is the momentum the slide/frame has to absorb. One measure of relative momentum the the "power factor" of the ammo. Typical 9mm is 135PF, 9mm +P gets up to 150PF, 180gr 40SW is about 180PF.

40SW has about 1.3X more momentum than 9MM thus it is harder on the gun.
 
Yeah Deaf, I think the 9mm models are subjected to a lot less wear and tear ... but that's because that's what I've been told by various folks from various manufacturers. ;)

I think replacing the recoil spring assembly can do a lot to help mitigate some potential issues that might result from increased battering as a recoil spring weakens over time and usage.

Also, over the years that I've been a Glock armorer and spoken with various folks from the company, the expected service life estimates related to some of the springs and other parts seems to have continually decreased. Maybe that's because as time's passed they've received increasingly more feedback from their LE users. ;)

You don't think the Gen4 G22 was something they just decided to fiddle with developing one day when they were bored, do you?

I still prefer Glocks chambered in 9mm, myself, although my G27 has been a decent little gun for the last 10 years, all things considered.

When I recently decided to pick up a spare Glock subcompact, however, I didn't for a second think of getting another G27, but went right for another G26. :)

KBintheSLC, don't get too caught up in the measurement of chamber pressure. It doesn't tell the whole story by itself just as being a "limit" that's reached. How quickly the pressure spikes and reaches its peak pressure can tell us other things.

For example, in the Sig pistol armorer class the instructor happened to mention not to be surprised if we found the barrel ramps were peened (on each side) in the .357 guns, but that we probably wouldn't ever see it in the .40's. It was explained that the .357 developed its pressure spike differently than the .40 and that it resulted in more force being absorbed by the gun. In this situation under discussion it meant between the frame insert and the bottom of the barrel's feed ramp during recoil. he told us that if the peening became excessive in a gun we could file it down on each side so it was within normal spec again.

When I was discussing the .357's & .40's with different folks from Glock in the past it was often acknowledged that the .357's would generally experience more wear, sooner, from the recoil forces acting on the guns. (This isn't to mean the felt recoil will necessarily be perceived by the shooter as being greater in the .357, though.)

Besides that, many of these guns will never be asked to shoot more than a few thousand rounds.

A surprising number of them in private hands may not see more than a few hundred rounds, if that. ;) Not everyone is inclined, or can afford, to spend time at a range.

When it comes right down to it, if I didn't think the G27 was reliable enough to meet my anticipated needs I wouldn't continue to own and occasionally carry it.
 
Shooting factory .40 is like shooting +P+ ammo all the time.
Just curious... where did you get this idea? I keep hearing it thrown around, and just can't seem to understand it's validity. You see, standard pressure 9x19 and .40 S&W both have the same SAAMI pressure specs... that is 35,000 PSI. Actually, 9mm +P is higher pressure than any .40 S&W load, and rivals 10mm pressures approaching 37,500 psi. So, what makes you believe that the .40 equates shooting +P+ all of the time?
Actually, factory 9mm +P+ ammo can exceed 40k psi. But pressure doesn't mean anything in this context. Pressure is contained by the barrel/chamber and by the brass. When a gun wears out, the barrel doesn't blow up; it can either handle the pressure, or it can't. As an aside, look up Laplace's Law. A smaller diameter vessel is more effective at containing higher pressure, relative to the square of the diameter. This is actually common sense, and doesn't need a fancy name. Pounds per square inch, pretty much explains it. In a larger barrel there are more square inches. In other words, 35k psi in a 9mm barrel isn't equal to 35k in a 10mm barrel. For equal pressure, the larger diameter barrel and brass will require more structural integrity to hold up, but it will also propel the same weight projectile faster (the bullet has more surface area, thus more force is exerted at any given pressure). This is why 135 gr .40 loads are faster than standard pressure 115 grain luger loads, despite operating at the same pressures.

My point is that .40 SW is a modern cartridge. This means that any factory can produce a load that approaches the cartridge's potential limit without fear that they'll get sued for blowing up someone's gun. A +P .40 cartridge isn't feasible, because it's already at the max. Any much more in an autoloader, and the brass will fail. Luger brass can handle much more than 35k psi. But even though most modern 9mm guns can handle +P or +P+ loads, standard pressure loads are limited to 35k psi so they're safe to shoot in any gun chambered for 9mm parabellum, including C&R guns.

The fact that the 9mm standard pressure limit happens to be exactly the same as the .40 SW pressure limit is just coincidence, and it isn't apples to apples. Even against 9mm +P+ loads (assuming a practical limit of 40k psi, lets say, despite a lack of official designation), the .40 will still come out on top, due to powder capacity and Laplace's Law. There's only 1 factory 9mm load that barely makes major pf, and that's the Ranger 127 grain +P+. You'd be hard pressed to find any factory .40 load that doesn't make something close to major, and many make quite a bit more. So when you launch the average .40 load out of the same exact platform as a luger, the gun is going to get battered at +P+ luger levels, and then some.

So you can stop comparing pressures and just go with common sense. Shooting bullets with higher energy and recoil causes more wear. Same as saying shooting moderate .357 loads will wear your revolver loose as much as shooting 38 +P loads all the time.
 
Last edited:
Fastbolt thanks for the informative posts. I will take a look at my 27 and see how the pins and springs you mention are holding up. I did put a new recoil spring in my used 27 the day I got it.

To the OP the one thing I do with all of my semi auto pistols is change the recoil spring regularly. If I get a used one, it gets a new spring right away. I discovered this while shooting a couple hundred .45 rounds a week for about a year. Every failure to eject or stovepipe I ever had was from a worn out recoil spring. A good spring also reduces, to some extent, the battering of the frame.
 
I have only a G26 and G29. My G26 has never had any malfunctions, the G29 has had one, a FTF where I had to yank back a bit on the slide to get it to go into battery. It was within the first 50 rounds, and has never repeated. I consider them both to be reliable, actually the 26, ultra reliable.
 
What beats the gun up is the momentum the slide/frame has to absorb. One measure of relative momentum the the "power factor" of the ammo. Typical 9mm is 135PF, 9mm +P gets up to 150PF, 180gr 40SW is about 180PF.

40SW has about 1.3X more momentum than 9MM thus it is harder on the gun.
Not true IF the handgun was designed to shoot .40 ammo.

Sure the .40 slide has more momentum, but the .40 pistol also has a stronger recoil spring which virtually negates the momentum difference.
 
Not true IF the handgun was designed to shoot .40 ammo.

Sure the .40 slide has more momentum, but the .40 pistol also has a stronger recoil spring which virtually negates the momentum difference.
I believe the G-17/22 share the exact same recoil spring, err, at least they used too until the gen4 17s started to fail....Aside from that, all other generation 17s/22s wear the exact same recoil spring...
 
I believe the G-17/22 share the exact same recoil spring, err, at least they used too until the gen4 17s started to fail....Aside from that, all other generation 17s/22s wear the exact same recoil spring...
I don't think the Gen 3 Glocks shared the same recoil spring.
 
Armorers manual

#SP01533 Recoil Spring Assy 17# G17,G22,G24,G31,G34,G35
#SP02457 Recoil Spring Assy 18# G19,G23,G32
#SP05586 Recoil Spring Assy 17# G20,G21
#SP02211 Recoil Spring Assy 18# G26,G27,G33
#SP08063 Recoil Spring Assy 18# G29,G30,G36

Incidently, this is why I use a pound or two heavier Wolff spring assy in many of the 40, 357, and 10mm Glocks, on the advice of MarkCO @ Glocktalk.


M
 
Last edited:
Here's the update on my G27.

I discovered the problem....

It seems that with the mag extensions (even with the +0 pinky extension), there is a tendency for me to apply too much grip pressure on the extension so that it affects feeding reliably.

I just went through about 250 consecutive rounds with zero failure when using just the standard mags.

When using the pinky extension, I noticed that i had 1 out of 100 rounds have "failure to feed" issues.

It's not really my Glock 27's fault. After all, its an aftermarket / or non-standard part for that model.

For a while, I switched to the G26....but the bigger caliber just kept calling me back. I really like my G27 and am glad that I figured out the issue. Overall, I am very please with this gun.
 
From my experience...my Glock 26 is 99.999% reliable whereas my Glock 27 is 99.5% reliable.


That is statistically insignificant. You'd have a better chance of winning the lottery than telling them apart from a reliability perspective.
 
tolerate human error more so than the G27 (if we take the human error due to greater recoil)?

1. Has anyone else seen this from PERSONAL experience?

Absolutely, the majority of Glock malfunctions are human related, but the humans generally refuse to see it that way.
 
With your carry load you should not have any "limp wrist" problems. If you do then you might need a more powerful load or a heavier bullet. Your hands may become injured so its best to have some thing that will operate with a lesser grip. I use a G26 and the CorBon 115 gr will not limp wrist jam. I can shoot it with just thumb and trigger finger.

Concerning the G26 VS G27, get both. Carry the G27 and practice with the G26. It really is best to have 2 of the same gun for carry. One to practice with and one for use. Check the carry gun for function a couple times a year.
 
Concerning the G26 VS G27, get both. Carry the G27 and practice with the G26. It really is best to have 2 of the same gun for carry. One to practice with and one for use. Check the carry gun for function a couple times a year.


And that is an excellent idea. I have both 27 and 26 and yes a AACK .22 unit for the 26.

Actually I have two 26's, one the practice gun and the other the extra incase I ever have a problem with my 27 and need another carry gun pronto.


Deaf
 
With your carry load you should not have any "limp wrist" problems. If you do then you might need a more powerful load or a heavier bullet.
aren't Glock 9mm's designed with 9mm NATO in mind? (similar to 9mm+P)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top