280PLUS
Member
what do you prefer? i use to use oil but switched to mil tec syntheticwhich i like but both collect grime, now i'm into remmy dri-lube.
opinions?
m
opinions?
m
gun lube...
- Thread starter 280PLUS
- Start date
- Status
justice4all
Member
CLP or grease, if I'll be leaving the gun in the vehicle for extended periods of time.
gudel
Member
well, i have this kleen bore formula 3. it doesn't seem to stick with gunk and seems to lube the gun just fine. i also have remington dri lube. i dont think i'll put the dri lube on the slide/frame, for those i'd leave it to the oil. for magazine catch then i use the drilube.
cratz2
Member
I've tried Miltec and liked it ok. I also thing that BreakFree CLP is adequate for such a product but I prefer FP10.
It has its place but I've never been a big fan of the Dri Lube for general use.
That FP10 is good stuff.
It has its place but I've never been a big fan of the Dri Lube for general use.
That FP10 is good stuff.
DMK
Member
I used to use Breakfree CLP, but folks around here (well TFL actually) have convinced me of their support of the assault weapons ban so I switch to FP-10, who by the way are very pro 2nd amendment. I like it better anyway, it's much thicker.
I used just a little Wilson Combat grease on high wear areas like barrel bushings, locking lugs and slide rails. It comes in a handy syringe which is nice.
For dusty or dirty use, I just apply less lube. For range sessions, I use lots of lube to reduce wear and tear.
I used just a little Wilson Combat grease on high wear areas like barrel bushings, locking lugs and slide rails. It comes in a handy syringe which is nice.
For dusty or dirty use, I just apply less lube. For range sessions, I use lots of lube to reduce wear and tear.
I like the dri lubes from Sentry Solutions. Best gun lubes I've ever used. I'll never go back to grease and oils. 
http://www.sentrysolutions.com/
http://www.sentrysolutions.com/
45R
Member
I go FP-10 Also.
10-Ring
Member
I've been very satisfied w/ the Militec, but from all the raves I've read here, I've gotta try me some of that FP-10.
Butch
Member
Here are some links to TFL that include FP-10
http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=128410
http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=118369
This really is some fantastic stuff!
http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=128410
http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=118369
This really is some fantastic stuff!
Kentucky Rifle
Member In Memoriam
Militec-1 for me...
Each time you use it things get slicker for a longer period of time. I use Militec on my knives too.
KR
Each time you use it things get slicker for a longer period of time. I use Militec on my knives too.
KR
Mr. Purple
member
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2003
- Messages
- 32
Breakfree seems to work best. Although I am trying samples of FP10 which works pretty well, and Militec which also works pretty well.
I have also tried Mobil one which seems to lubricate just fine. Its unlikely my guns will create the adverse environment an internal combustion engine will. I use the lowest viscosity I can find.
For cleaning I use breakfree, Hoppes #9, and Ed's red. In that order depending on what gun I using.
I have also tried Mobil one which seems to lubricate just fine. Its unlikely my guns will create the adverse environment an internal combustion engine will. I use the lowest viscosity I can find.
For cleaning I use breakfree, Hoppes #9, and Ed's red. In that order depending on what gun I using.
sm
member
Made an arse of myself advocating FP-10 at one time and I apologize. I've seen it fail, and personally don't use.
I know others that have had fine results with FP-10.
No "magic milk" out there. I believe it was our own Mr. Lawson whom stated some very good advice. One has to be comfortable with lube they use, consider enviroment,gun/platform, climate, maintenance and inspection practices. Good advice IMO
Reminds me, I need to call an order in for a 1/2 gal for a product I use on Monday.
Follow Mr. Lawsons advice, mfg, RTOM...whatever your comfortable with.
I know others that have had fine results with FP-10.
No "magic milk" out there. I believe it was our own Mr. Lawson whom stated some very good advice. One has to be comfortable with lube they use, consider enviroment,gun/platform, climate, maintenance and inspection practices. Good advice IMO
Reminds me, I need to call an order in for a 1/2 gal for a product I use on Monday.
Follow Mr. Lawsons advice, mfg, RTOM...whatever your comfortable with.
Black_Talon
Member
Can you explain the circumstances of this failure? I'm considering switcing to FP-10 but remain slightly skeptical in the face of such overwhelming positive endorsement of this product. It seems too good to be true.
sm
member
I'd rather be non-commital on the failure.
Many people use FP-10 and have excellent results.
Kinda like Ford vs Chevy vs Mopar vs Import of your choice. Seems like for everyone that has a positive, someone has a negative with the same Vehicle Mfg.
And like vehicles, seems like lubrication is a hot topic that will always heat up debate.
Besides, what do I know? I drive a Chevy truck with over a 114K miles and I use conventional oil. I change every 3 months or 3K miles, whichever comes first.
Heck that last sentence alone has enough stuff to start a heated thread on a Truck/Oil/Maintenance forum--or 3 separate forums.
Order the FP-10 and try it yourself.
It ain't no big deal--and I ain't either
Many people use FP-10 and have excellent results.
Kinda like Ford vs Chevy vs Mopar vs Import of your choice. Seems like for everyone that has a positive, someone has a negative with the same Vehicle Mfg.
And like vehicles, seems like lubrication is a hot topic that will always heat up debate.
Besides, what do I know? I drive a Chevy truck with over a 114K miles and I use conventional oil. I change every 3 months or 3K miles, whichever comes first.
Heck that last sentence alone has enough stuff to start a heated thread on a Truck/Oil/Maintenance forum--or 3 separate forums.
Order the FP-10 and try it yourself.
It ain't no big deal--and I ain't either
George Hill
Member
You know how auto parts stores sell these oil additives that supposedly make your oil slicker? Some of them, like Z-Max is nothing more than colored mineral oil. It will not help your engine. In fact, it can even harm your engine. There is a huge class action lawsuit regarding those guys. Other cats out there are putting little particles of synthetics in there... like Slick 50. Tests show that it does make things slick... but it also clogs up your oil filter after a relatively short period of time. The rest of the other guys are using plain old 20W-50 oil. A thicker, heavier oil that seems to quiet and smooth the engine simply because the oil is so much thicker and heavier. (actually it does have it's place... if you have an older vehicle with a lot of milage you should probably be running 20W-50 anyways) So these companies are saying that you put in this special formula - (20W-50 oil) it will do magic things for your engine.
There really is no magic oil for your car. But some oils are better than others... but really your splitting hairs. Synthetics are superior, but are not generally available in heavier grades that a lot of vehicle need.
There is also no magic oil or lube for a gun. The guys that are running Mobile One... Hey, it's not a bad lube. But it's only a lube. Same with any other motor oils. (I suggest trying a heavier grade than Mobile One offers - the heavier the oil the less bleeding it does) Then you got the High Tech cats out there offering special secret formulas. Just how high tech does your oil have to be? Reminds me of a Monty Python skit when they are talking about this candy factory that is using the purest of Lark's Vomit and Spring Water Washed Crunchy Frogs. It doesn't matter how good they say it is - what is it really? Are they suspending teflon particles in a heavy oil? Is that really actually helping anything or is it really just Lark's Vomit? FP-10 is pretty good... I guess. I don't think it does anything for cleaning... That's why I like Breakfree CLP. It helps clean too. That simplifies life. Something that is really really slick is Brownell's Action Lube Plus. A black colored moly grease that is about the slickest stuff I have ever used. Unfortunately its black and looks just filthy. So your freshly cleaned gun, all slicked up and feeling fine looks like hell. Well, dogs feel fine too when they roll around in poo. Dry lube's I wouldn't use them in my guns... they don't do enough when it comes to protecting the gun from friction.
So what to use?
Just about whatever is on hand will work just fine... There is no need ot go out of your way to order anything special. Just don't use WD-40... that will gum things up... I'll let a Chemist explain that if you need to know. If I want to lighten my range bag load, just a little bottle of BF-CLP will do just fine... but so will a cap full of 20W-50 when I've been out working on an engine.
My point is - There is no Magic Bullets. There is no Magic Gun Oil... If you find something that works... then use it. Don't fall into that "Has to be a Name Brand product or it's crap" trap.
There really is no magic oil for your car. But some oils are better than others... but really your splitting hairs. Synthetics are superior, but are not generally available in heavier grades that a lot of vehicle need.
There is also no magic oil or lube for a gun. The guys that are running Mobile One... Hey, it's not a bad lube. But it's only a lube. Same with any other motor oils. (I suggest trying a heavier grade than Mobile One offers - the heavier the oil the less bleeding it does) Then you got the High Tech cats out there offering special secret formulas. Just how high tech does your oil have to be? Reminds me of a Monty Python skit when they are talking about this candy factory that is using the purest of Lark's Vomit and Spring Water Washed Crunchy Frogs. It doesn't matter how good they say it is - what is it really? Are they suspending teflon particles in a heavy oil? Is that really actually helping anything or is it really just Lark's Vomit? FP-10 is pretty good... I guess. I don't think it does anything for cleaning... That's why I like Breakfree CLP. It helps clean too. That simplifies life. Something that is really really slick is Brownell's Action Lube Plus. A black colored moly grease that is about the slickest stuff I have ever used. Unfortunately its black and looks just filthy. So your freshly cleaned gun, all slicked up and feeling fine looks like hell. Well, dogs feel fine too when they roll around in poo. Dry lube's I wouldn't use them in my guns... they don't do enough when it comes to protecting the gun from friction.
So what to use?
Just about whatever is on hand will work just fine... There is no need ot go out of your way to order anything special. Just don't use WD-40... that will gum things up... I'll let a Chemist explain that if you need to know. If I want to lighten my range bag load, just a little bottle of BF-CLP will do just fine... but so will a cap full of 20W-50 when I've been out working on an engine.
My point is - There is no Magic Bullets. There is no Magic Gun Oil... If you find something that works... then use it. Don't fall into that "Has to be a Name Brand product or it's crap" trap.
sm
member
quote: "Lark's Vomit and Spring Water Washed Crunchy Frogs."
Thanks a lot George, now the cat's out of the bag, just a dab of this stuff and my 1911's slide rails and...and...
I use Kleenbore Formula 3 a lot, why? Grew up with it and it always worked. Used it on India oilstones and light machinery, still do. Keep it around for general purpose. Keep 30 wt oil in an oil can and spray bottle for heavier lube stuff. Heck we used this same stuff when putting engines together.
I also use Breakfree CLP. IME and use has done everthing I asked of it.
I became 'gun shy' you might say years ago when I had anaphalatic shock, Aspirin (ASA). Just one day my body said 'that's it". So I was a bit sensitive about a lot of stuff, sinus meds, foods, reloading, gun cleaning. We confirmed it was ASA, however I learned, there may have other stuff contributing, or might. I did break out with some gun stuff--given a bit of time went away. BF causes no problems.
Funny, one can read a magazine form 30 yrs ago, same darn debates as we have today about lubes, guns, platforms, bullets--just the names and dates have changed.
If the "old stuff" was so "bad" then how did all those K frames, Colts, 1911's ...etc, ever survive to be collected today?
Of course I've used gasoline to clean a 1911 and lubed with 20 wt Esso motor oil too. Didn't get damned to hell or struck by lightening...ran 400 rds that day without a hitch.
I have seen engines torn down that used the 'wonder additives" in bad shape--actually caused problems as Mr Hill pointed out.
Dunno , at 195K miles my Olds needed valve cover gaskets, you could eat off the top end. 3k or 3 months I changed with filter used conventional oil. Now the two dudes using the wonder stuff and relying on hype and not practice were gonna get to buy new engines. Dunno, but 35K and 55k seems a might early to me.
My 76 Olds, shoulda kept it, but did n' t need two vehicles. Until some drunk hit him...made it 290K miles...never had an engine roblem.
It ain't no big deal-and I ain' t either
Thanks a lot George, now the cat's out of the bag, just a dab of this stuff and my 1911's slide rails and...and...
I use Kleenbore Formula 3 a lot, why? Grew up with it and it always worked. Used it on India oilstones and light machinery, still do. Keep it around for general purpose. Keep 30 wt oil in an oil can and spray bottle for heavier lube stuff. Heck we used this same stuff when putting engines together.
I also use Breakfree CLP. IME and use has done everthing I asked of it.
I became 'gun shy' you might say years ago when I had anaphalatic shock, Aspirin (ASA). Just one day my body said 'that's it". So I was a bit sensitive about a lot of stuff, sinus meds, foods, reloading, gun cleaning. We confirmed it was ASA, however I learned, there may have other stuff contributing, or might. I did break out with some gun stuff--given a bit of time went away. BF causes no problems.
Funny, one can read a magazine form 30 yrs ago, same darn debates as we have today about lubes, guns, platforms, bullets--just the names and dates have changed.
If the "old stuff" was so "bad" then how did all those K frames, Colts, 1911's ...etc, ever survive to be collected today?
Of course I've used gasoline to clean a 1911 and lubed with 20 wt Esso motor oil too. Didn't get damned to hell or struck by lightening...ran 400 rds that day without a hitch.
I have seen engines torn down that used the 'wonder additives" in bad shape--actually caused problems as Mr Hill pointed out.
Dunno , at 195K miles my Olds needed valve cover gaskets, you could eat off the top end. 3k or 3 months I changed with filter used conventional oil. Now the two dudes using the wonder stuff and relying on hype and not practice were gonna get to buy new engines. Dunno, but 35K and 55k seems a might early to me.
My 76 Olds, shoulda kept it, but did n' t need two vehicles. Until some drunk hit him...made it 290K miles...never had an engine roblem.
It ain't no big deal-and I ain' t either
280PLUS
Member
Thanx for all the input!
being a mechanic,,,general not auto,,,i want to make one observation,
using detergent type motor oils may not be the best choice,
but i imagine if it's working for you i'd probably ignore me...
motor oils with detergent additives are design to function correctly at the operating temp of an engine. without that heat the detergents can cause the oil to become gummy.
i suggest trying a light weight NON-detergent type oil
eg. 3 in 1, is probably 10 weight and i know theres 20 weight out there.
i imagine if you are cleaning your gun regulary this may not be an issue, it's just something i happen to know.
thanx again!
this site is great!
and... I had a 1983 amc eagle that i faithfully changed the oil in for its entire life of about 200,000 mi., when i finally had to get rid of it because of space issues the oil was still clean on the dipstick and if you looked down the oil fill into the rocker arms you could see that they were perfectly clean with NO gunk build up, spotless i'm tellin' ya! i still miss that car. i miss my 71 mach still too...
being a mechanic,,,general not auto,,,i want to make one observation,
using detergent type motor oils may not be the best choice,
but i imagine if it's working for you i'd probably ignore me...
motor oils with detergent additives are design to function correctly at the operating temp of an engine. without that heat the detergents can cause the oil to become gummy.
i suggest trying a light weight NON-detergent type oil
eg. 3 in 1, is probably 10 weight and i know theres 20 weight out there.
i imagine if you are cleaning your gun regulary this may not be an issue, it's just something i happen to know.
thanx again!
this site is great!
and... I had a 1983 amc eagle that i faithfully changed the oil in for its entire life of about 200,000 mi., when i finally had to get rid of it because of space issues the oil was still clean on the dipstick and if you looked down the oil fill into the rocker arms you could see that they were perfectly clean with NO gunk build up, spotless i'm tellin' ya! i still miss that car. i miss my 71 mach still too...
Miltec works very well as a lubricant.
I haven't done it the "proper" way, but read a post I think on GT by someone who did.
The "proper" way is that you heat the parts you are applying it to.
Supposedly, after it builds up enough, it becomes pretty much dry, and doesn't attract any grime or crud, but protects the metal and lubricates very well.
SO, since I'm lazy, I just use FP-10. I *LOVE* it, and it works really well.
Its less work because it is a CLP all in one.
Also, I've read that the militec isn't necessarily the best to use for wiping your gun down. It is decent, but not really much of a preservative/protectant.
Example: you probably wouldn't want to store a gun wiped only with militec.
I mean, in reality it'll probably be ok, but there are better preservative type products.
Sheesh, am I being wordy enough here?
I'll shut up now...
I haven't done it the "proper" way, but read a post I think on GT by someone who did.
The "proper" way is that you heat the parts you are applying it to.
Supposedly, after it builds up enough, it becomes pretty much dry, and doesn't attract any grime or crud, but protects the metal and lubricates very well.
SO, since I'm lazy, I just use FP-10. I *LOVE* it, and it works really well.
Its less work because it is a CLP all in one.
Also, I've read that the militec isn't necessarily the best to use for wiping your gun down. It is decent, but not really much of a preservative/protectant.
Example: you probably wouldn't want to store a gun wiped only with militec.
I mean, in reality it'll probably be ok, but there are better preservative type products.
Sheesh, am I being wordy enough here?
I'll shut up now...
blades67
Member
I use Breakfree/CLP. I tried a free sample of FP-10, but I didn't see any difference between the two, other than the FP-10 cost more and had to be mail-ordered, so I'll stay with the CLP.
sm
member
280PLUS;
"using detergent type motor oils may not be the best choice,
but i imagine if it's working for you i'd probably ignore me..."
---
been a while, you'll note ESSO , it was 18 cents a gallon we had a '53 chevy at the time. Wait...we did get a 2nd car, '58 Dodge with push button trannie, but mom had to learn to drive and pass her test before "going public".
But the guns worked and didn't rust up. Dad did get to bring home some stuff from the Nat'l Guard, the 1911 and the carbine, don't know what Uncle Sam issued, but Uncle Sam sure liked stinky stuff with green labels
Breakfree CLP- I'll stick with it.
Kleenbore Formula 3 for applications like oilstones...mentioned above. I do have one gun that has never had anything else but F3.
'71 mach ...Race ya'...let me get my buds' Chevelle SS 396, Hurst 4 speed , you'll hear me coming before you see the Orange with the black top , River Road, midnight, afraid to race without headlights...Maybe Melissa will Flag us...
I do miss some of my youth...just glad I survived it...some stuff I'd like to forget...some stuff I'd wish I'd done more of...
"using detergent type motor oils may not be the best choice,
but i imagine if it's working for you i'd probably ignore me..."
---
been a while, you'll note ESSO , it was 18 cents a gallon we had a '53 chevy at the time. Wait...we did get a 2nd car, '58 Dodge with push button trannie, but mom had to learn to drive and pass her test before "going public". But the guns worked and didn't rust up. Dad did get to bring home some stuff from the Nat'l Guard, the 1911 and the carbine, don't know what Uncle Sam issued, but Uncle Sam sure liked stinky stuff with green labels
Breakfree CLP- I'll stick with it.
Kleenbore Formula 3 for applications like oilstones...mentioned above. I do have one gun that has never had anything else but F3.
'71 mach ...Race ya'...let me get my buds' Chevelle SS 396, Hurst 4 speed , you'll hear me coming before you see the Orange with the black top , River Road, midnight, afraid to race without headlights...Maybe Melissa will Flag us...
I do miss some of my youth...just glad I survived it...some stuff I'd like to forget...some stuff I'd wish I'd done more of...
I suppose you could go with that newfangled "gas-saving" 5w-20 if you really wanted a super-light oil. The stuff pours like water.
...but, if you're like me, you'll use the can of Browning Gun Oil your dad gave you. My guns work, and they don't rust. That's pretty much all I care about.
...but, if you're like me, you'll use the can of Browning Gun Oil your dad gave you. My guns work, and they don't rust. That's pretty much all I care about.
280PLUS
Member
awww, i used to eat souped up 396's fer breakfast...
327's too for that matter...
409's
uhhh...
327's too for that matter...
409's
uhhh...
bedlamite
Member
Regarding those oil additives for your car, you may want to take a look here:
http://www.juracid.demon.co.uk/fotthewuck/cars/oil/snakeoil.02.html
The FTC doesn't seem to like their business practices. Also, that Lucas oil stabilizer, you know, the one with the gears and crank that you can play with at the auto parts store? It works great if you want a crankcase full of foam. And Fram filters are garbage, too.
I use Castrol Synthetic, 5w30 in my S-10, 5w50 in my Baja Bug and Virago.
<we now return you to your regularly scheduled thread>
For guns, I use Hoppes grease and CLP.
http://www.juracid.demon.co.uk/fotthewuck/cars/oil/snakeoil.02.html
The FTC doesn't seem to like their business practices. Also, that Lucas oil stabilizer, you know, the one with the gears and crank that you can play with at the auto parts store? It works great if you want a crankcase full of foam. And Fram filters are garbage, too.
I use Castrol Synthetic, 5w30 in my S-10, 5w50 in my Baja Bug and Virago.
<we now return you to your regularly scheduled thread>
For guns, I use Hoppes grease and CLP.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
