In a fire, both types of locks will melt, and usually require drillling of the safe to get into it.
If the safe was in a fire so hot that either melted, the safe would never be used again anyways. Gun safes are not built the same way as a real fire rated safe is, and they usually warp and distort badly once heated.
To address some of the other things brought up:
Also, with an electronic lock you HAVE TO change the combination periodically so that that numbers to the safe don't get worn down more than the rest
Although we do suggest this often, it is also possible to replace the keypad membrane once it starts to wear.
You need to ask the manufacturer for an honest answer to this one
Many gun safe manufacturers have no idea what they're talking about. I had to drill open a high end gun safe built by a name brand company. Their tech said he would fax me a schematic.
He sent me a photocopied page out of a book on gun safes written by a well known locksmith. It's bad when an independent party knows more about your product than you do.
http://savta.org/
I believe you can use this site to search for a safe technician near you. Ask him your question. These guys are the ones the insurance companies call after a house fire. They can usually get a safe open, as they aren't in a hurry like the bad guys are.
Excellent place to start a search for somebody who knows what they're talking about (I'm a SAVTA member too). Another good place is clearstar.com (also a member).
New electronic safes have an emergency back-up key. The keys are large and odd shaped, not easily picked, with the lock underneath the keypad.
Key locks are usually much less secure than a typical manual or electronic safe lock. If the safe has a UL rated lock, it should not have a key back up.
I believe S&G makes the best locks.
Many entry level locks are now produced in China, and that includes some of the S&G line. S&G has has some quality control issues which have caused some safe manufacturers to use other locks.
So long as the safe has a name brand, UL listed lock, you should be OK. This includes locks by S&G, LaGard, Kaba (Mas), Ilco, Lockone, Globalok, and others.
Ten years from now, the technology on today’s electronic locks will be obsolete, and there may be no replacement parts. Twenty five years from now (2033), the technician to come out and fix your electronic lock may not even know what the heck's in front of him. In contrast, I'm confident that my mechanical spin lock will be serviceable forty years from now.
One of the best things that happened was the "Universal Footprint" commonly found with todays modern safe locks.
Most locks, from most manufacturers, are the same dimensions with the same mounting holes. This allows for easy replacement of the lock.
Most gun safes use the lower end locks, which are usually wholly replaced once broken. It's cheaper to replace it than to piece it back together in most cases.
I'd opt for an electronic, figuring it'd be reliable enough for the remainder of my life.
If you get more than 5 years of regular use, than you're doing good. If you get 10 years out of it all together, you're way ahead of the curve.
My main worry is if in a fire, if melted and destroyed from the 1200 degree inferno, would the safe be ruined and would I need a locksmith to destroy the safe
Yes.
Although some safes work better than others, most gun safes do not perform to the manufacturer's claims.
Most gun safes that we've opened after "infernos" had severely damaged or flat out destroyed contents.
No where can I find this piece of what I consider extremely relevant info for the purchaser.
You can find out everything you need to know, and some things that you don't, right here at the Highroad.
what if an intruder slammed a sledge hammer into the s and g electronic pad--would this necessitate a drill job on my 2K safe?
Maybe. If the keypad is only smashed, but the wiring harness is intact, a new keypad can be spliced in to open the safe. If the wiring is damaged, or the beating was hard enough to fire a relocker, then the safe needs to be drilled.
I've had one unserviced for fifteen years and it works flawlessly
Unserviced locks have a tendancy to just stop working one day. I usually suggest having mechanical locks serviced at least once every 5 years. I just drilled open a floor safe the other day that made it to just under 20 years before quitting. The cost to open the safe exceeded the price she paid for the safe 20 years ago.
Wouldn't the whole safe be inoperable after a big fire?
Yes, and this is true for any safe designed to protect against fire. Heavy steel plate safes can usually get a new lock and paint job and go back into service.
wouldn't the fire proofing be compromised to the point that the safe couldn't last another fire?
Most gun safes don't survive the first fire.
