Half the servicos aventuras primers I have used fail

[nettlle]

It' has been my experience also to have the primers not fire when not fully seated. In tens of thousands of primers I never had this problem until I bought my first Ginex primers (all that was available) which are hard to seat. I thought I was good at feeling primer depth with my thumb until I started using the Ginex. The Ginex caused me to refine my primer checking technique.

 

[Artg56]

Using a Lee Auto Bench priming tool I’ve loaded around 5000 of these without any ftf’s (below flush as others have mentioned). I have another 5000 still in the cabinet and will likely buy more when needed

 

[Havok7416]

Using a Lee Auto Bench priming tool I’ve loaded around 5000 of these without any ftf’s (below flush as others have mentioned). I have another 5000 still in the cabinet and will likely buy more when needed

Same tooling here, with the same results.

 

[oncewaslost]

I don't know how the Hornady hand primer is made, but I have had a well used lee hand prime that the linkage was worn down and no longer would seat a primer deep enough.
You might try ram priming and see how you come out.

 

[LV Gun]

I have used 7000 SA primers now I have had some FTF’s but only about 2% what I have found is like others have said seat them deep and firmly which has pretty much eliminated my FTF problem. I quit hand seating them and went back to seating them on my Lee Classic Cast Turret that is what solved my problem with them. They are no worse than some of the domestic brands I have used and I will buy them again partly because they are hot enough to use with W296 in 357 magnum.

 

[Walkalong]

What makes things even worse is the horrible design of new-model RCBS and LEE hand-priming tools.
I have one of each.
They are horrible.

I don't know about the Lee, but my new RCBS hand primer doesn't have half the leverage of my old one.

It works, but is much, much harder on my old arthritic hand.

 

[Mr_Flintstone]

I prime most of my cases on a Lee Challenger press with Auto Prime. With some of the foreign primers I really have to torque the press handle when using new brass. My older 38 Special brass that’s been loaded 20-30 times seats Servicios primers like butter, but my new Hornady .380 and Starline .32 S&W Long brass takes a firm hand to get some of them below flush the first couple times they‘re loaded. It’s not surprising that a hand press might not always fully seat them.

I‘m going to say that in the situation being talked about, there was a perfect storm of minor things that caused the primers not to seat completely on all the cases and to not fire.

 

[9mmepiphany]

Using a Lee Auto Bench priming tool I’ve loaded around 5000 of these without any ftf’s (below flush as others have mentioned). I have another 5000 still in the cabinet and will likely buy more when needed

The Lee Auto Breech Bench priming tool is excellent...especially if you fand them on sale...with lots of feel combined with good leverage (I seldom need more than a couple of fingers worth of pressure.

I did make the mistake of letting a shooting buddy, who didn't understand the difference between firm and "Mongo Mash", use mine once and he cracked the shell holder retaining collar

 

[9mmepiphany]

I quit hand seating them and went back to seating them on my Lee Classic Cast Turret that is what solved my problem with them.

When case gauging, I'll sometimes spot a slightly high primer. I look across the top of a line and I'll run a finger nail across questionable ones...if my nail doesn't catch on the edge of the primer pocket , they're too high.

I'll reseat the primer of these either on my Lee Classic Cast single stage or with my Co-Ax bench priming tool...never had a primer that wouldn't seat below flush using either of these

 

[Jim Watson]

A friend had a couple of SAs fail and relegated the rest to practic, not match.

 

[blackd24]

I had issues - very similar to you taking 2 strikes to fire. I also was on a LCT with brand new brass and they likely weren’t seated all the way.

Fast forward to my LNL, once fired cases and all was well. I wouldn’t purchase them again, though. Unless the price went down to $30/1000.

 

[Blue68f100]

So just to check, I set up the primer system. I took the dented but not fired cases and as I have done on all my reloads The primers are flush but the priming tool is also bottomed out. I have had this set up for 12 years and never had any issues. My guess is the primes themself. There are a lot of people on line saying between 5 and 20% don't fire. I have never had any issue with other primers. It does not explain why it would fire with the bullets and powder removed and not when I struck the complete round in the gun several times. I will have to do some research on the primer below flush but I have Loaded ammo for going on 30 years and never have I had this issue. So I know the primers are some what different than others I have used. If others are having this issue also. It happened in two guns the only thing the same is the primers. I pick up brass cases so my brass is a Heinz 57 mix. It may be that the metal is harder than other primers? I don't see a clear reason but there is a reason. I am about 99% its something in the primers.

Another possible cause since all fired once the bullet and powder was removed could be your a little long on OAL. Depending on gun the out of battery protection could be slowing the hammer speed down or preventing the hammer from full force. Have you done a Plunk Test? Make sure the round will spin in the chamber, if not it's holding the round preventing it from bottoming out as it should.

 

[dannyd]

I had issues - very similar to you taking 2 strikes to fire. I also was on a LCT with brand new brass and they likely weren’t seated all the way.

Fast forward to my LNL, once fired cases and all was well. I wouldn’t purchase them again, though. Unless the price went down to $30/1000.

SA's @49.99 thousand or CCI and Winchester @89.99 thousand, My LNL's don't know the difference, so I can shoot twice as much for almost half the money.

 

[castile]

Another possible cause since all fired once the bullet and powder was removed could be your a little long on OAL. Depending on gun the out of battery protection could be slowing the hammer speed down or preventing the hammer from full force. Have you done a Plunk Test? Make sure the round will spin in the chamber, if not it's holding the round preventing it from bottoming out as it should.

I was thinking about this. It could be that my OCL could be right on the edge or just a bit over and not allowing the gun to go into full battery, but the thing is each primer had a strong strike.

 

[Blue68f100]

I was thinking about this. It could be that my OCL could be right on the edge or just a bit over and not allowing the gun to go into full battery, but the thing is each primer had a strong strike.

If the bullet is contacting the lands it absorbing the impact as it move forward in the chamber.

 

[n2omike]

So just to check, I set up the primer system. I took the dented but not fired cases and as I have done on all my reloads The primers are flush but the priming tool is also bottomed out. I have had this set up for 12 years and never had any issues. My guess is the primes themself. There are a lot of people on line saying between 5 and 20% don't fire. I have never had any issue with other primers. It does not explain why it would fire with the bullets and powder removed and not when I struck the complete round in the gun several times. I will have to do some research on the primer below flush but I have Loaded ammo for going on 30 years and never have I had this issue. So I know the primers are some what different than others I have used. If others are having this issue also. It happened in two guns the only thing the same is the primers. I pick up brass cases so my brass is a Heinz 57 mix. It may be that the metal is harder than other primers? I don't see a clear reason but there is a reason. I am about 99% its something in the primers.

Sounds like you've convinced yourself, so there is no need to try and help.... BUT...
Primers need to FIRMLY seat against the bottom of the primer pocket. Being flush with the base of the case is irrelevant.
Just because something worked for you in the past with other primers doesn't mean it works with these.

Do a test and seat them FIRMLY against the bottom of the primer cup. Pay ZERO attention to how flush they are with the case.
You will likely have a100% success rate.

If you don't want to do this, I'm sure someone here would buy them from you at half price and have them work just fine.

Good Luck

 

[castile]

Sounds like you've convinced yourself, so there is no need to try and help.... BUT...
Primers need to FIRMLY seat against the bottom of the primer pocket. Being flush with the base of the case is irrelevant.
Just because something worked for you in the past with other primers doesn't mean it works with these.

Do a test and seat them FIRMLY against the bottom of the primer cup. Pay ZERO attention to how flush they are with the case.
You will likely have a100% success rate.

If you don't want to do this, I'm sure someone here would buy them from you at half price and have them work just fine.

Good Luck

I have a Hornady primer on the press. I can try that to see of they seat lower. I am skeptical that this is the issue but i can try to put it to bed one way or another.

 

[Walkalong]

I am skeptical that this is the issue but i can try to put it to bed one way or another.

I am not, but looking forward to your testing

 

[castile]

I took 10 random 9mm cases from my bin of brass. I resized and decapped them. Then I put black marker on the heads of 5, these five were primed using the AV primers and the Hornady priming system built into the press. The 5 cases that has no black mark on the head were primed with the Hornady hand press. I enclosed three pictures the first one is of all 10 looking down, the third is the 5 black marked looking across, second is 5 unmarked looking across. The hand press always goes down. I can not press any harder. Its bottoms out. The on the press priming system I put enough pressure that I would not put any more. I could start to damage the primer.

 

[castile]

I think two cases are mixed up. one of the cases had the black sharpie whipped off. I remarked it but I think I marked the wrong one. If you look at the top shot of the primers the Hornady handprimer seems to be denting the primers. The Hornady press primer does not. See case 1 on the left and 2 on the right looking down. This may be an issue with these primers. It may be a combination of the primers and the denting of the primer moving the anvil.

 

[Artg56]

Your photos do show that you are having a problem seating these primers. Some look partially crushed and some look higher on one side than the other which makes me wonder if your priming tool is starting them just slightly crooked. My steps after seeing results like this would be to first clean and uniform the pockets and then using normal pressure, seat the primer, rotate the case 180 degrees and reseat.

 

[9mmepiphany]

If you look at the top shot of the primers the Hornady handprimer seems to be denting the primers.

That isn't a matter of too much pressure. Excess pressure on primers will just flatten them without denting like you're seeing.

The marks you're seeing is from the primer not being aligned with the ram...slightly off center when you pushed them in

 

[nettlle]

So just to check, I set up the primer system. I took the dented but not fired cases and as I have done on all my reloads The primers are flush but the priming tool is also bottomed out. I have had this set up for 12 years and never had any issues. My guess is the primes themself. There are a lot of people on line saying between 5 and 20% don't fire. I have never had any issue with other primers. It does not explain why it would fire with the bullets and powder removed and not when I struck the complete round in the gun several times. I will have to do some research on the primer below flush but I have Loaded ammo for going on 30 years and never have I had this issue. So I know the primers are some what different than others I have used. If others are having this issue also. It happened in two guns the only thing the same is the primers. I pick up brass cases so my brass is a Heinz 57 mix. It may be that the metal is harder than other primers? I don't see a clear reason but there is a reason. I am about 99% its something in the primers.

I doubt you were using this brand of primer 12 years ago. Primers have changed especially those made in other countries. They don't seat as well as American primers nor do they have to. There is no competition between the primer manufacturers due to the over demand/under supply. Some primer manufacturers think their primers are the finest in the world because they selling them faster than they make them when in fact they are selling because we are desperate.

 

[EricBu]

I bought a box of these primers. I just loaded up some 380 and 9mm for my wife and I to go to the range. It was about half would not fire even on a second strike. Has anyone had any issues with these types of primers? This is unreal. Maybe I got a bad lot.

Most common issue with metric primers is not seating them deep enough. Measure your seating depth and make sure they are around .003 below flush. They take a bit more effort to seat. Next possibility is that some guns (38 spl airweight dao, for example) struggle with some primers any way (harder cups). So often metric primers create a perfect storm...difficult to seat, and a gun that lightstrikes = high fail rate.

 

[Walkalong]

Look at the difference in the depth of those primers.