Have you changed the springs in your revolver?

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bugsbunny45

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I was thinking about going to wolf springs in my Rossi 851 and 462. From reading I see a few have done it. How the the change effect your shooting.
 
Never owned a Rossi.

But I put Wolff spring kits in my S&W's as a matter of course for 30 years.

They are totally reliable and reduce DA trigger pull noticeably.

For well maintained guns only though.

The heavy factory springs are designed to power through dirt & grit, and still be 100% reliable with hard primers.

Anymore, I'm leaning more toward leaving the factory springs alone, and learning to shoot then that way.

Then, I know they will always go off when I pull the trigger.

Something to think about before you go off messing with it.

rc
 
I've changed the springs in several Ruger and S&W revolvers. All changes were done in an effort to improve trigger feel. I had a problem with one where a lighter weight spring caused light primer strikes, but a slightly heavier spring fixed that. All replacement springs were Wolff. That was all back in the 20th century.

My experience is unless you have a trigger only Godzilla could love, keep the original spring. The marginal gain in doing only a spring replacement is generally not worth the effort and can lead to malfunctions.
 
I've been shooting for nearly 50 years. Never changed stock springs in any revolver. When you get older and wiser you realize a smooth trigger pull is more important than light. Go the Grant Cunningham 's website and read some of his articles. He will lighten trigger pull by smoothing an action but refuses to lighten springs. He knows more about revolvers than 99.9% of the people on this forum.

I know of people who have 4 1/2 pound DA triggers on their toy guns for competition. They need to exercise a little to get their hands and fingers in shape but are too lazy.
 
I have Jerry M's Bang, Inc springs in all my S&Ws.

There's a significant difference in the action; smoother and much less "stack" before the break.

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routinely
You'll save yourself some work if you break in the gun well before you mess with the springs and include detail cleaning and light lube in the job.
 
I have installed Wolf springs in several S&W and Ruger revolvers with generally good result. Trigger pull in all felt smooth and the pressure required to break the trigger was reduced. My Smiths always felt smooth and the lightened springs made the double action lighter and I feel as though I am more accurate shooting DA as a result. I installed a set in a Ruger Blackhawk, along with some polishing to the trigger mechanism and the result is a butter smooth action that is almost too light. When a spring set was installed in my Ruger Redhawk I got inconsistent primer strikes when shot in single action - DA was fine but given the use for that particular gun (always shot in SA) I ended up going back to stock springs. In my opinion, if your revolver is being used for defensive purposes, leave the stock springs in place.

Blessings,

Paul
 
I opted for Wolffs in my 629 and my two CA Bulldogs in order to lighten the DA. I have found that I am a little more consistent, DA-wise, with the new springs installed.

I have left my 2 S&W Model 1905, 2 Colt Police Positive Special and 2 Colt Army Special springs (all DA .32-20s, btw) as-is. Heck, I don't even know if Wolff replacements are even available for those ~80-100 year old pistols, but I use them in SA mode almost exclusively, so ... <shrug>
 
Trying to improve the trigger pull of a firearm by only changing springs is really not the way to get a nice trigger pull. While it may reduce the force needed to overcome the action you still have the creep and mushiness put in by the manufacturer. And the trigger will almost certainly reset slower than it did before in DA shooting.
 
I've not changed factory springs in anything but J-Frame S&Ws in years. I put Apex Duty Spring Kits in my older nickel-plated Model 37 and my brand-new Model 642-2. I detail cleaned them when I changed out the springs and lubed them with some gun grease and RemOil. I did stone some burrs off the 642-2s hammer strut. I put Wolff springs in a S&W Model 25-2 back in the '80's but that was strictly a target pistol.
 
I've changed the springs in nearly every one of the 36 single actions I own. This, coupled with smoothing the innards, results in a much more user friendly sixgun. Never had a light strike.
 
I put a Wolff rebound spring in my 2" Model 15 to smooth the double action pull and put a Wolff mainspring in my Ruger Bearcat to reduce its tendency to string shots vertically with the factory Ruger spring.
Otherwise, my S&W models 19 and 66 are stock.
 
I have polished the internals and installed Wolf springs in most of my S&W revolvers.
 
I have installed lighter trigger springs in a Cimarron Model P and in an Interarms Virginian Dragoon. I also reduced the creep on both by reducing the depth of the hammer notch with a stone and homemade fixture. Much easier to shoot accurately for me now.

kevtherev
 
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