Help with picking a Criterion 6.5 Creedmoor barrel

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bluejay75

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Greetings Gents,

Was wondering what profile, twist, length and muzzle brakes guys are using on their aftermarket barrels for Savage rifles.

I had some choices to make and decided to get a Criterion made to the exact specs I want instead of buying new takeoffs and having work done to them.

6.5 Creedmoor was a slow process in choosing as a friend of mine swears by 260 Remington and I have seen first hand what it can do at 500 yards (2-3 inches). I can barely hold that at 300 yards on the best of days.

Any tips welcome. Will be a dedicated target or shooting from a table overlooking a pecan orchard where 5-600 yard shots can be made and rifle weight doesn’t matter.

Bluejay
 
24" or 26" will be plenty, 1-8" seems to be the go to with 6.5 CM, and will handle 140's and 147's no problem. As for contour on a target rifle I like a big fat barrel to soak up recoil and do well with barrel heat. From criterion's site I'd personally roll with a heavy Palma, MTU, or Bull profile. I have a VG6 Gamma 6.5 brake on my 6.5 CM Savage Model 10GRS. No recoil at all, but it definitely makes some noise!
 
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I'm going to start with the dumb question of what does the Savage barrel do now? Reason I ask is my buddy bought 2 for his teenage boys for deer & hogs. Very inexpensive - Savage Axis & Mossberg Patriot in the hollow plastic stocks. Pretty much the lowest end models. I did the loads for them and the very first load I tried could do an inch @ 100 and when swapping to a higher magnification scope they both hit the 3" targets at 300. Maybe that was just a lot of random good luck just stacking up but it left me with the impression that 6.5CM with 140gr SST & H4350 does excellent in the cheapest barrels out there [from my incredibly large sample size of 2]. Had never messed with that caliber before but was really surprised how easy it was to get excellent results.
 
It was a Savage new takeoff that shot great. No issues with the any of my Savage factory barrels. All have done half MOA or better and they are usually faster because of the 5r rifling. Wanted a heavier profile and to dress up my target rig.
 
I'm going to start with the dumb question of what does the Savage barrel do now? Reason I ask is my buddy bought 2 for his teenage boys for deer & hogs. Very inexpensive - Savage Axis & Mossberg Patriot in the hollow plastic stocks. Pretty much the lowest end models. I did the loads for them and the very first load I tried could do an inch @ 100 and when swapping to a higher magnification scope they both hit the 3" targets at 300. Maybe that was just a lot of random good luck just stacking up but it left me with the impression that 6.5CM with 140gr SST & H4350 does excellent in the cheapest barrels out there [from my incredibly large sample size of 2]. Had never messed with that caliber before but was really surprised how easy it was to get excellent results.
From my perspective the Savage barrels in their production rifles rival the most expensive brands. Usually a trigger and bedding job will make what is a cheapish rifle into a tack driver. I own several and out of the box they were all 1/2 MOA rifles with good hand loads with minimal fussing around. Have not ventured into 6.5 CM yet but that day is approaching fast.
These days I find that I am the most limiting factor to accuracy sadly.
 
I went with a 26" MTU profile using a APA little bas**d brake. I went with 26" because the rifle with the brake is at max length for my storage space. Twist is 1:8, which is fairly standard for the 6.5. Some go with 1:7.5 for heavier bullets.
 
26 inch and I want a barrel that is at least .750 at the muzzle so any of the above contours will work and 1~8 is the standard for the Creedmoor
 
I went 26" length, Bull Barrel, 1-7.5 twist, and a Area 419 Brake on my Savage 10 a few years ago. James at NSS was helpful after he found out what I wanted to do, what bullet I was shooting, and such.
It's the extra shooter, extra rifle anymore for everyone to use...the 6.5 Creedmoor barrel life is nice and long.
 
Unless you're going to shoot 1000+ a 20" barrel will give you all the speed you need. But if having a lighter compact rifle isn't a concern then there is no downside to longer.

Had never messed with that caliber before but was really surprised how easy it was to get excellent results.

The 6.5CM lives up to the hype. I currently own 2 of them and have shot several more. I've found every single one to be exceptionally accurate with both factory and hand loads.
 
muzzle brakes

I have a VG6 Gamma 6.5 brake on my 6.5 CM

using a APA little bas**d brake.

and a Area 419 Brake

The 6.5CM kicks?

I built an AR-10 for a friend of mine in 6.5CM, I didn't even bother with a muzzle device, thinking a brake would be if not a detriment to accuracy, then certainly not contributing to it. My opinions of brakes also comes from my experience with the hateful looks from those near me when I'm shooting my M1a 16" with a brake, and particularly off a bench.

Not trying to be a wiseacre, but do you need a brake on a 6.5CM, and particularly a bench rifle?
 
@Charlie98 , there really isn't much recoil at all, I shot mine with a thread protector for a while. Putting the brake on didn't change accuracy at all, and Walkalong nailed it with this reply

It’s to help stay on target to spot your own hits/misses to provide feedback if you need to adjust, mostly for the gamers, but it’s nice either way. It’s not about too much recoil
 
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