P95Carry
Moderator Emeritus
I think the guys are referring to a Zippo flint for instance (cerium oxide IIRC) ... and that ''does things'' on impact!
Home made 22 Hollow points?
- Thread starter Shooter973
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coldshot03/04
member
I use to file my 22lr ammo down flat like a wadcutter. This is for revolvers only.
CWL,
When the M-16 first went to the field it had a slow twist barrel on it to increase the damaging effect of the diminutive round. The round was reported to have devastating results on human targets. The Army tested it and requested the correct twist rate and that's what we have now. An accurate round, but not the damaging effect of the .30 caliber.
When the M-16 first went to the field it had a slow twist barrel on it to increase the damaging effect of the diminutive round. The round was reported to have devastating results on human targets. The Army tested it and requested the correct twist rate and that's what we have now. An accurate round, but not the damaging effect of the .30 caliber.
280PLUS
Member
hence the round entering your knee and exiting your shoulder stories ??
That caused more tumbling after impact since the round wasn't terribly stable, not before (unless it hit brush, etc) I don't think anyone in their right mind would want a bullet that tumbled as soon as it left the barrel unless they wanted to shoot at no more than 5-10 yards, and maybe not even then...
Horsesense
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I have done the drill and or cut an x in .22 and decided that the extra oomph (fragmenting, tumbling etc.) wasn’t worth the loss of consistency.
Never tried the flint in a HP but I have done backwards primers in a 357 HP (that was interesting).
If you really want to push the envelope…. Reload a shotgun shell with split shot sinkers, crimped onto bread twisties or "ring a shell", that’s where you cut a ring all the way around a shell, over the wading, if you cut deep enough, the shot and shell stay together, like a slug, and explode upon impact, kind of like a 12ga glacier round. Another variation is to add a bonding agent to the shot, this is tricky because you don’t want to blow up the gun, but, if you use say a small (read just enough to make the shot sticky) amount of bubble gum mixed with a full load of 7 1/2 shot, you can shoot a fist sized pattern at 70 yards.
WARNING WARNING WARNING if you do anything to alter the design of a round, YOU must take personal responsibility for what ever happens, you just may end up winning a Darwin award!
Never tried the flint in a HP but I have done backwards primers in a 357 HP (that was interesting).
If you really want to push the envelope…. Reload a shotgun shell with split shot sinkers, crimped onto bread twisties or "ring a shell", that’s where you cut a ring all the way around a shell, over the wading, if you cut deep enough, the shot and shell stay together, like a slug, and explode upon impact, kind of like a 12ga glacier round. Another variation is to add a bonding agent to the shot, this is tricky because you don’t want to blow up the gun, but, if you use say a small (read just enough to make the shot sticky) amount of bubble gum mixed with a full load of 7 1/2 shot, you can shoot a fist sized pattern at 70 yards.
WARNING WARNING WARNING if you do anything to alter the design of a round, YOU must take personal responsibility for what ever happens, you just may end up winning a Darwin award!
mainmech48
Member
Okay, so I'm dating myself here, but when I was a kid there was a not-inconsiderable price difference between .22 HPs and solids. It was also almost impossible to find factory HPs for most pistol rounds.
There was a tool advertised for many years called, IIRC, the "Georg Hollow Pointer". It was sold by mail, and the ones most often seen were for .22s and LSWC .357/.38 Spls.
It looked like the SGB tool in that the body was basically a steel bushing reamed as for a chamber to the particular cartridge with a hole for a drill at the forward end. A special drill bit w/stop was included.
I had one for .22s as a kid, as the $0.25/box extra that HPs cost at the Western Auto was enough at the time to severely limit my purchasing power. I used it on "standard" velocity LRs for plinking, and HVs for small game. It seemed to work just dandy, although I didn't do anything in the way of "scientific" testing, being about eleven at the time. They dropped the bunnies and squirrels emphatically, and that was all I needed to know.
When I got out of the service and started reloading for a .357 revolver, I bought one to make my own "FBI" loads (158 gr. LSWCHP +P .38 Spl.) for the 2" S&W M10 that I carried and a 4" M19 that did everything else. Accuracy was fine, at least as good as I could hold for with anything at the time. There were no signs of either tumbling or keyholing on paper targets.
As HPs for both became more available and affordable, the tools sort of got lost in the shuffle during various moves over the years. I doubt if they're even made anymore.
I still have my SGB tool and use it. Turns SV .22 Match ammo into primo squirrel medicine - quiet, accurate enough for sure headshots at 30 yds, and drops them with more dependability than most HV PHs.
There was a tool advertised for many years called, IIRC, the "Georg Hollow Pointer". It was sold by mail, and the ones most often seen were for .22s and LSWC .357/.38 Spls.
It looked like the SGB tool in that the body was basically a steel bushing reamed as for a chamber to the particular cartridge with a hole for a drill at the forward end. A special drill bit w/stop was included.
I had one for .22s as a kid, as the $0.25/box extra that HPs cost at the Western Auto was enough at the time to severely limit my purchasing power. I used it on "standard" velocity LRs for plinking, and HVs for small game. It seemed to work just dandy, although I didn't do anything in the way of "scientific" testing, being about eleven at the time. They dropped the bunnies and squirrels emphatically, and that was all I needed to know.
When I got out of the service and started reloading for a .357 revolver, I bought one to make my own "FBI" loads (158 gr. LSWCHP +P .38 Spl.) for the 2" S&W M10 that I carried and a 4" M19 that did everything else. Accuracy was fine, at least as good as I could hold for with anything at the time. There were no signs of either tumbling or keyholing on paper targets.
As HPs for both became more available and affordable, the tools sort of got lost in the shuffle during various moves over the years. I doubt if they're even made anymore.
I still have my SGB tool and use it. Turns SV .22 Match ammo into primo squirrel medicine - quiet, accurate enough for sure headshots at 30 yds, and drops them with more dependability than most HV PHs.
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