How the heck do I take off an AR-15 stock?!

[ramis]

Ok I have the same problem.

This castle nut is staked.



from http://www.tacticalyellowvisor.net/8301/46141.html

See the little piece of metal from the receiver plate that's pushed into the little slots on the castle nut? Since you have an olympic, your castle nut is most likely not staked.

 

[Rubber_Duck]

Try putting the lower in the freezer, and use a better castle nut wrench, one that grabs the castle nut at three points instead of just one.

I went through the same exact thing before: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=371569 .

 

[spyderdude]

I had the same problem with my M&P15. I was wanting to install a sling adapter, and bought a stock wrench to get the castle nut off. The wrench kept slipping off the nut, and stripped some of the metal off the nut, and some of the black finish on the buffer tube. I got fed up, and took the lower to a gun smith. He installed it with no problem, and did it for free too. Now I just have a slightly scratched buffer tube and slightly messed up castle nut.

 

[rob_s]

Rock River incorrectly affixes their castle nuts with red Loctite, as posted above. Red Loctite requires heat to remove, also as posted above.

This is not only incorrect, but is actually 180 degrees from the correct method, since the receiver extension should have grease on it, not glue.

The receiver extension "castle" nut is meant to be held in place by staking the receiver endplate into the notches as shown in the picture above. This is a MECHANICAL solution rather than a CHEMICAL solution like the Loctite. A properly staked castle nut should not require excessive force applied with the moment arm that is a decent castle nut wrench.

Somewhat ironically given their propensity for incorrectly installing the part to begin with, RRA actually does make a pretty decent inexpensive stock wrench that should work for you just fine. I only wish that the receiver extension slot they have in it was a 3/8" hole for a breaker bar,and then it would be about perfect.

When you reassemble, make sure you put some moly grease on the threads before you tighten the nut.

 

[Rubber_Duck]

The castle nut wrench posted in the link by rob_s is the best for the money.

DO NOT use the wrench shown in post #7!! Refer to the link I posted in post #27 and you will see I had the same crappy wrench shown in this thread, and managed to break it easily.

Spend the extra $3-4 on the better wrench.

...took the lower to a gun smith....Now I just have a slightly scratched buffer tube and slightly messed up castle nut.

Sounds like a sloppy gunsmith to me.

 

[sqlbullet]

The Rock River castle nut is, I beleive, an MIM part. This is inferred since staking it will usually cause it to crack. Hence their use of a chemical solution to lock it in place.

I used a multi-wrench to remove mine, along with some clamps to hold the lower in place. It took some force but came off. Remember the rear take-down detent spring is held in place by the receiver plate, so be prepared to control it's departure from the lower.

I have heard of people stripping the threads on the buffer tube when removing and installing castle nuts on Rock River lowers. This is probably due to the adhesive present on the threads.

 

[rob_s]

Since you're not actually staking the nut, and are in fact staking the receiver endplate, the construction of the nut shouldn't matter.

But, not all endplates are created equally. I've encountered some so hard that they didn't want to take a stake, and others that appeared to flake like a pastry.

My hands down favorite receiver endplate, and the one I always install any time I remove a castle nut, is the Danel Defense Rear Receiver QD Swivel Attachment Point. Takes a great stake without failing and gives you an extra sling mounting point. Even if you don't need the attachment point now, your needs may change down the road, and this builds in the flexibility now.

 

[Shooter88]

Get a lower receiver block to hold the lower in a vise, and get a good armorer's wrench, not that pot-metal hook. Those little hook type "stock wrenches" are junk. The metal they're made of is way too soft and weak.

 

[KW]

Keep in mind, the little hook stock wrenches were also designed for an entirely different nut (that has one little round hole to match the wrench), and work quite well for those. Trying to use one of those wrenches on the newer castle style nut is like putting a metric wrench on a standard nut - asking for trouble.

 

[mpanwar]

Ok back to Bownells

Thanks. I got that single castle nut tool ( with just one tooth ) crapola.

Will get the right tool first.

Thanks for the info all.

Bigger question though!!!

The reason I am doing this is to install a Gunsmoke Enterprise Buffer Tube.

Now I understand how it all fits, but the instructions say to get rid of the retainer clip and spring once u take the top / bottom apart and remove the old buffer tube innards. Really?? The new stuff they give will stay in ? I am thinking it will jump out at you each time u take the top apart !

 

[jerkface11]

That's nothing. The castle nut is BACKWARDS on my Olympic.

 

[bkb0000]

That's nothing. The castle nut is BACKWARDS on my Olympic.

i saw a bunch of ARs with backwards castle nuts at a gun show in Portland recently... half of them were olympics- olyarms is just a couple hours drive from Portland so they always have strong showing at the Rose City Gun Shows. I have to wonder if some Big Head didn't write an article talking about the merits of installing a castle nut backwards or something.

it makes it impossible to use a three-prong wrench, at the very least

 

[rob_s]

Keep in mind, the little hook stock wrenches were also designed for an entirely different nut (that has one little round hole to match the wrench), and work quite well for those. Trying to use one of those wrenches on the newer castle style nut is like putting a metric wrench on a standard nut - asking for trouble.

Excellent point. I recently went to remove the stock on an older 9mm AR only to find that the owner had it for quite some time and the nut was the old non-castle style. I didn't have the right tool for once!

 

[yenchisks]

use a pipe wrench and a cheater bar,that will do it by thunder.