Ideas on "catchy" trigger

[slimpickens]

Just purchased an excellent shape S&W model 27-2. Shoots great, a tack driver, and the nickel finish looks brand new after a trip to the "mother's mag polish" department.
But here's the question--- In double action trigger pull, the trigger starts back and for about 1/16th of an inch there is a slight drag. Not enough hardly to notice, but it's there. After a look at the internals, all looks well except I noticed with the cylinder removed, and the trigger is pulled, the drag is not present.
I'm thinking a weak cylinder stop spring? Nothing is worn, and I notice that when I slowly let the trigger to rest, there is a milisecond before the cylinder hand returns to proper place.
What do you guys think. Help and ideas appreciated.
PS___ there are no burrs present on any of the internals as far as this old
man's eyes can see.

 

[MrBorland]

In double action trigger pull, the trigger starts back and for about 1/16th of an inch there is a slight drag. Not enough hardly to notice, but it's there. After a look at the internals, all looks well except I noticed with the cylinder removed, and the trigger is pulled, the drag is not present.

The cylinder doesn't immediately start to rotate when the trigger pull is started, so you may be feeling the point at which the hand/ratchet engagement actually starts to rotate the cylinder.

If it's noticeable enough to think it might be more drag than normal, it could be the smoothness of the ratchets and/or hand where they interact. It could also be excessive endshake. If the latter, I'd have that looked at before it gets worse.

Is the drag more pronounced with or without cases loaded into the chambers? If the former, it could simply be crud in the recessed chambers not allowing the rounds to fully seat. If the latter, check for excessive rotation of the ejector star within the cylinder assembly. Are either of those 2 little bitty ejector star alignment pins missing?

I'm thinking a weak cylinder stop spring? Nothing is worn, and I notice that when I slowly let the trigger to rest, there is a milisecond before the cylinder hand returns to proper place.

Not sure how a stop spring could cause this. As far as the cylinder stop resetting, it doesn't return to it's final position until the trigger is returned nearly 100%, so it doesn't sound like anything amiss there.

 

[slimpickens]

Thanks for your response, MrBorland. The revolver doesn't have any endshake at all, the ejector star pins are fine, no crud at all in the recesses of the cylinder.
It feels like the cylinder stop is catching momentarily on the rotating edge of the cylinder cutouts. Could that be a timing issue, although in firing of the gun everything seems to be fine? It has a great smooth feel in double action except for the very beginning of rotation, just a hint of drag, almost like a breaking loose of the cylinder slots. Does that make sense?

Sorry, please move to gunsmithing.

 

[Old Fuff]

It is always hazzardous to speculate when one doesn't have the gun in hand, but I think your problem is that the hand comes up as you pull the trigger, and the ball on the cylinder stop (the part of the cylinder stop that sticks up into the cylinder window in the frame) doesn't quite drop and clear the notch in the cylinder. Lightly polishing the top of the ball should clear up the hitch.

Also check the notches in the cylinder to be sure they are not dinged or burred, caused by fast double-action shooting.

 

[slimpickens]

Old Fuff, you may be on to something. That was my next step. I'll try that when time allows, and report. After watching the action with the cylinder out, that might be the culprit. Thanks.
Anyone else have any ideas, be sure to post.
Thanks So Much
PS__ cylinder notches are fine, no burrs, etc

 

[murf]

is your ejector rod loose?

murf

 

[slimpickens]

No Sir, I checked that first.

 

[murf]

the hand could be worn out and pushing out against the frame cut-out when you start to pull the trigger. look for wear marks on the side of the hand and frame cutout. look at the front face of the hand for unusual or excessive wear.

murf

 

[slimpickens]

murf, the hand and the cylinder cut-outs look fine. I haven't been able to detect the problem, but it's still definitely there. Not much, but I have many s&w's and none has the "hitch in the get-a-long." I plan on taking it apart piece by piece, and see if I can find the source.
As mentioned, it does not have the 'catch' with the cylinder out, so I know that narrows it down and I should be able to solve the problem.
Thanks for the responses, and any other ideas appreciated.

 

[Remllez]

Slim,

How's the barrel/cylinder gap on your gun? Are there any drag marks on the cylinder face or barrel shank? Just a couple easy things to check before taking your gun apart.

 

[slimpickens]

No touching at all. But not too big a gap either. Don't have a feeler guage,
but that's not the problem.