issues dissassembling remmy

[Gambit88]

First off thanks to old fluff for the instructions. Sense ive dissassembled my colt more times then i can remember the remington was pretty easy. I had a problem doing the grips but old fluffs trick got me past that. Now im stuck. I cant get the stop spring screw out. Ive tried the wd 40 and pb blast oil with no avail. I also tried the spray, tap, heat, spray, tap, and heat method with now help. Should I try a pen toarch instead of 10 minutes in the oven? Is there a oil that works better? Ive tore up this screw pretty good so Ill probably get a new one at the next reenactment. btw what do you guys think of automotive grease on the internals? This is the first time Ive taken the internals out and thats how they were greased.

Thanks for the replys

Gambit

 

[Mike OTDP]

Try Kroil on the screw. Let it penetrate, then tap gently.

I would think automotive grease too viscous to be a good lube for the internals. A good oil such as Ballistol will work fine.

 

[denster]

The stop spring screw can be a beast. Best penertant out there is 50/50 acetone and automatic transmission fluid. You have to give any penetrant time to work. Several days is good. Don't be in a hurry. I second Ballistol for the internals.

 

[Gambit88]

Thanks ill spray it down with the pb blast and some wd 40 and let it sit overnight and try it if it doesn't work ill spray more and let it sit. I just need it back together by friday when I have the next reenactment

 

[SteveInColorado]

There's a tool called a screw impact driver that I've thought about bringing up here before. I've used one as a mechanic for years to get painted-over, rusted, or otherwise impossible screws out. They always work. I have a Snap-On one, but Harbor Freight sells one on sale now for 5 bucks.
http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html

If you have your own hollow-ground interchangeable bits, you could use them with the cheapie and not have to worry about the quality. The driver has an internal ramp that forces it to turn when you strike the head with a hammer, twisting with the other hand. You would want the gun in a padded vise, and you would want to use good judgment in how hard you hit the driver, but I'm sure this tool would solve 99% of the stuck screws around here, if not all.

Steve.

 

[Gambit88]

Thanks Ill look into one of them. Ive screwd up the head of the screw so badly now that I may have to have the screw drilled out. That or find a slightly wider bit:banghead:

Gambit

 

[Gambit88]

I used that screwdriver and vise to great success but now I can't get the mainspring back in. Any suggestions?

 

[Jim K]

The problem with trying to remove stubborn screws (or nipples) is that the screwdriver or wrench keeps trying to ride up rather than staying down and putting pressure on.

So, if you have a drill press, chuck a stubby screwdriver tip or the nipple wrench into the chuck. Set the gun up in a padded vise and bring the driver/wrench down on the screw/nipple. Don't use power. Hold the chuck down with the handle while turning the chuck by hand, working it back and forth. This will remove all but the most stubborn screw or nipple as long as there is anything for the driver/wrench to "bite" on.

Jim