JB Weld???

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Wareagle5.0

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Im workin on a po' mans scout rifle project. I got the XS clifton scout mount. Im tryin to save as much money as I can. So my question is: can JB weld, or something else, be used in place of acra glas in the mounting of the scout mount? Or am I beimg too cheap?
 
JB Weld is really just an epoxy with metal powder added.

If the manufacturer says to use Brownell's Acra-Glass, it's kind of not smart to use something else.
Trying to save a couple of dollars might damage your much more expensive scope if it pops off under recoil.
 
I've had good a bad results with JB Weld. Looked up prices online. Brownell's Acra-Glass is about $15 for 4 oz size. JB Weld is about $5 for 2 oz size for a savings of $10 if the JB Weld is used. I personally don't think JB Weld holds up to vibration or shock very well. I'm cheap too but sometimes the extra $10 pays off in the long run. Good luck,
Mike
 
JB Weld is great stuff. But I wouldn't bed a rile or scope with it. It's one of those things, if you can shave of $50 somewhere, it might worth it. But if you're concerned with saving the $15-20 to properly bed, you could skip a bit of beer to make up the price.

Yeah, I feel the same way. My rifle budget should only come out of my wife's knitting, and not my beer. It was silly to suggest otherwise.
 
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I have used JB weld to bed my .270W and my muzzel loader. I had good results. Just be sure to use the original JB and not the quick set JB. Also it is important to mix the two components very thoroughly. It is probably not as good as Brownell's acraglass but it worked for me.
 
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Yea thats kinda what I figured. Im gonna go ahead and get the acra glas. Have any of yall ever installed one of these on an ishapore? If so how did yyou make sure the mount was level and square. I was gonna go off of the sripper bridge but I aint so sure its level with the reciever, now that I look at it.
 
What's with JB Weld? Does it have some funny stuff in it that causes nuttiness? It is just an epoxy with metal powder in it; it is not a super glue and certainly is not equivalent to welding.

Some people seem to think it is magic, to the extent that one poster with a cracked rifle barrel was advised to "just use some JB Weld and it will be safe to shoot"!!!! Where do people get that kind of idea?

Jim
 
I dont think its magic. I was only considering it as an alternative to acra glas because its available anywhere and its cheaper too (no shipping). Is that "nutty"?
 
That's not nutty, it's just that people seem to think that JB Weld is some sort of super material that can do anything.
As above, the truth is JB Weld is nothing more than epoxy glue with some powdered metal mixed in.
It can be used with success on some gun projects, but people seem to think it'll take the place of intact steel.

As for your project, unless you have a reference surface on the gun, you just have to eyeball it and hope you got it straight.
Some people have the knack of looking at things and getting them close to level.
I have a buddy that looks at things and gets them wildly off level.

The important items in your project are getting the metal absolutely clean of all lubricant. You can't clean the parts too much.
The manufacturer will probably have advice on that.
Roughening the surfaces to be bonded helps, but you may not be able to do that here.
Just read the makers instructions thoroughly, and if you have any questions or something isn't crystal clear, contact them for advice.
 
When bedding my rifles, I coat all metal parts on the action and barrel that will be exposed to the epoxy or whatever is being used for bedding with a release agent usually a carnuba wax- old fashioned Simonize works. If the metal parts are not coated- good luck with removing the stock. JB Weld is an epoxy, but it is the strongest that I've used with the possible exception of Brownells Acuraglas.
 
Thanks for the responses everybody. Im gonna look at it again but I think im just gonna have to eyeball it. Im gonna clean and degrease everythimg good and hope for the best. Again its a 200 truck gun but I want it to function properly and not look like crap.
 
JB weld is stronger than either acuglas resin or gel , JB weld is similar in strength to industrial strength 3M steel epoxy and is far superior to any of brownells acuglass.

Motorcycle engine tuners actually use JB weld on the internal cylinder head ports in order to increase port radius and speed up air flow, it never lets go even under extreme hi temperature racing condition of sport bikes.

Don't believe me here is a link http://www.mototuneusa.com/homework.htm
 
First of all just because it is on the internet does not make it true.

Second of all though JB is pretty amazing used within its limitations. I have used it in automotive engine applications as well but only when a kludge was needed to buy some time for an appropriate fix.
 
Its is true and have used it on engines myself in the intake ports for the last 10 yrs. on sport bikes and it is even a proven acceptable performance practice. Google it and do a search yourself.

Acuglass is a good product but it does have its limitations , its best use is for wood bedding and repairs, and on fiberglass stock or kevlar stocks and also great for furniture or woodwork repair.

Acuglas can't be used for is for nylon or synthetic stocks such as a ramline , hogue, or the plastic remington stocks. Since these stocks are more of a nylon, abs plastic or rubber configuration, no 2 part epoxy will stick to them.

They would require a plastic welding operation to stick to them
 
Also I have found JB to be too thick to use effectively for bedding applications. As I type this I have eyeglasses I repaired 3 months ago with JB because I wanted the strongest adhesive I knew of.
 
the jb weld can be used for bedding as it is thinner than acuglas gel, but it is thicker than acuglas liquid resin.

JB weld works great for just simple of accurizing job if all you want to do is a simple 2 point bedding , job at the rear action screw and front recoil lug.

USMC armorers don't use even use acuglas on the sniper or competition guns, they prefer industrial expoxys like devcom plastic steel, 3M plastic steel and loctite plastic steel based epoxies. JB weld is very similar to these products and is just packaged in small tubes.

Brownells actually sells versions of the devcon plastic steel as there steel bed versions. But you can buy the industrial brands cheaper yourself thru MCMaster Carr and Granger Industrial produdts.
 
xr1200: Not saying that the accraglas will bond to Ramline stocks in general, but it did adhere to my Ramline stock from the middle 90's at least.

Only mitigating circumstances I can think of is that I used a harsh chemical to degrease the inside of the stock, and I notices some definite etching of the plastic.

I de-actioned that stock the other day for a cleaning and it's still bonded very well.

Regards,

Amflyer
 
The scope mount manufacturer had to recommend something so they recommended Acra Glass.

I bought a Ken Farrel scope mount rail and he recommends using J-B Weld for bedding. If you want the ultimate, go for Devcon 10110 but be prepared to fork over just under $50 for the smallest amount.

It's not much better than J-B weld at less than $10 for enough to do several mounts. The epoxy isn't holding the mount on, it's just filling any voids so the mount is not distorted when the mount screws are torqued.
 
JB Weld and scope mount

I didn't want to pay $100 for a good scope mount for my Sporterized Mosin Nagant. I bought a piece of aluminum alloy bar stock ($3 ) and machined it to fit my Mosin Nagant; the front piece in the rear sight, the back piece drilled and tapped into the hex shaped receiver. I used JB Weld to "assist" in the mount, relying on the screws primarily. It is Rock Solid. I cleaned the aluminum with alcohol and painted it with high-temp flat black. I baked it the over at low temp for one hour. It looks nice and works well. I'll take a few pictures and send along as soon as I get the scope mounted.
 
Kinda like Duck Tape...
It's amazing what I have seen fixed with it, including, an engine block, (really) it got us home...
 
I've very successfully bedded scopes and actions with JB Weld. My .308 has over 1000 rounds through it and the JB is solid. Good stuff.
 
FWIW..
I had a gunsmith epoxy a mount onto a 12ga slug gun. The very FIRST SHOT sent the rim of the scope into my eyebrow.....and left me holding a smoking gun with my scope on the ground at my feet. I'm not certain which happened first, the scope to the eyebrow knocking the mount off...or the mount coming loose then hitting me in the eyebrow. Either way, same outcome.
Some guys have had good luck with the JB or epoxy ....as for me, I'm done.

....my $.02
 
Acra Glas and Acra Glas Gel were developed specifically for bedding actions.

JB Weld wasn't.

Using something that was designed for a specific task is a better bet.

Substituting another compound that wasn't intended for bedding actions is a crapshoot.

May work. May not.

If it doesn't, you'll have to scrape, grind, or chisel it out and start over. Is the risk of all that worth saving 10 bucks instead of going with the product that was designed for that specific task?

I guess it boils down to how much your time is worth.

I once tried to repair a Colt frame with JB Weld...one that had snapped off the ejector legs and when the guy couldn't get them out, he proceeded to wallow out the holes with a drill. I did the repair, and all looked pretty good...until after about 500 rounds downrange the case smacking the ejector beat the stuff loose in the holes and let the ejector start flopping around again. He sent the frame out to be welded up and have the rail recut.

Tensile strength of JB seems to be good. Shear...not so much. Impact...not good at all.
Probably okay for the sides of the receiver and for a pressure pad in the forend of the stock. Probably not suitable for the recoil lug.

Just my observations and experience.
 
Acra Glas and Acra Glas Gel were developed specifically for bedding actions.

JB Weld wasn't.

Using something that was designed for a specific task is a better bet.

Substituting another compound that wasn't intended for bedding actions is a crapshoot.

May work. May not.

If it doesn't, you'll have to scrape, grind, or chisel it out and start over. Is the risk of all that worth saving 10 bucks instead of going with the product that was designed for that specific task?

I guess it boils down to how much your time is worth.

I once tried to repair a Colt frame with JB Weld...one that had snapped off the ejector legs and when the guy couldn't get them out, he proceeded to wallow out the holes with a drill. I did the repair, and all looked pretty good...until after about 500 rounds downrange the case smacking the ejector beat the stuff loose in the holes and let the ejector start flopping around again. He sent the frame out to be welded up and have the rail recut.

Tensile strength of JB seems to be good. Shear...not so much. Impact...not good at all.
Probably okay for the sides of the receiver and for a pressure pad in the forend of the stock. Probably not suitable for the recoil lug.

Just my observations and experience.
What he said.... +1....

I have used JB Weld for years in the Machine Shop for fixing all kinds of stuff... works well for many applications... But not so much for guns for the reasons listed above... If you make a mistake and have to do over... well on a gun you can be in trouble.. (see comment of shear and impact)

I can see where it may hold to assist in bedding a scope rail or mount in a light kicker, but it would be a permanent move.. For those applications, take the time to mate the metal surfaces, (India ink is your friend in chasing high spots) and then torque it to spec with a touch of blue or red locktite...

As far as Glass Bedding a stock,,, Acuglass by Brownell..
 
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Ok yall, got the mount done. I did use the JB weld and I think I made the right move. This thing aint goin nowhere. 2011-03-09_22-26-53_194_KPT.jpg
 
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