Kroil over PB Blaster?

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LoneGoose

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Different communities have different preferences for things. I see a lot of references on THR to Kroil as the penetrating oil to go to. When I was living on a farm, their preference was PB Blaster. I think they said it has Teflon in it. A hunter friend of mine who does mechanicking work (;)) uses his Rem-oil as a penetrating oil.

Since a major reason for visiting THR is for learning, I'm wide open to learning the Pro's & Con's of these and any other penetrating oil.

I know most of this will be subjective, but let's hear what you think.

THR rocks.
 
I’m using ATF in a dripper bottle. Had the ATF from a slow transmission line leak on my last truck, found a dripper bottle in my air tool drawer. So far it works, but it’s not as quick as purpose made penetrating oils.
 
I have seen reports of PB Blaster messing with bluing after long contact. This plus having used Kroil for 50 years is reason enough to stick with it.
 
For mechanic work at least, Penetrating oils are WD-40<PB Blaster<Kroil

Kroil definitely works better than PB, but it is expensive so there is still use for the others. WD-40 still seems to get crudded on rust off better than PB, so I often use it w/a wire brush to clean a fastener before hitting it with PB. If the PB doesn't work, soak it in Kroil.
 
Having tried most of the options except ATF/acetone mix, I personally like Liquid Wrench the best (the little "squeeze" can) when factoring in price and availability. I have used Kroil and like it but it's expensive and harder to find.... Always thought WD-40 and PB were better then nothing... Always hated PB Blaster's spay can, especially on guns or small projects because it always sprays too much out too forcefully when usually all you need is a few drops....

I found a copy of the following test online:

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/penetrating-oil-showdown.350800/

Machinist's Workshop Magazine tested various penetrating oils for break out torque on "Scientifically" rusted nuts in either the March/April or May/June, 2007 issue. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. Not sure what the "scientifically rusted" process was..... Chemically induced I assume...

*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*
p2974156t50.gif None ..................... 516 pounds
61cpr939Z%2BL._SL75_SS50_.jpg WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
7036044.jpg
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
1463151-Micro.jpg
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
kanKroil%20Gallon-0.jpg
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
product_thumb.php
plus.jpg
chemicals_generic.jpg ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
 
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The Machinist Worship Magazine test is interesting, however limited in its extrapolation to other tasks, as it is only a single data point i.e. "rusted nuts". Needless to say not every application that a gunsmith may desire / require use of a penetrating oil, involves a rusted nut. Such information is not provided by the study cited.
 
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Kroil is readily available from places like Midwayusa etc. I find that Kroil works a bit better floating rust off while not affecting the bluing. If I was going to submerge something large, the atf-acetone mix is a bit cheaper and works fine. Just keep it away from flames and use outdoors.
 
PB is great for bore cleaning

I'll have to try that as I still have some. I've tried using Kroil as a bore cleaner but just consider it something to use in a pinch if I run out of regular bore cleaner.
 
I use PB Blaster on the farm and my vehicles, where over-spray and mess don't matter. I use Kroil on my firearm screws or other sticky situations, where I want maximum penetration and minimum mess.
 
As an aside, whenever I’m afraid of overspray I squirt it into a Solo cup and then apply it with a small brush or Q-tip.

I’m going to look at Zep-45.

I’m going to try PB as a bore cleaner.
 
I tried the 50/50 atf/acetone on a rusted up 1908 Mauser rear military sight tonight. It worked great! I got it all freed up and back in operation!
Thanks for the tip!!!
 
During old car restoration, where EVERY bolt is rusted, I've tried just about every product. Kroil has seemed best if you can let it soak. I use it now with older guns that need restoration.
One question that I have with the acetone/ATF mixture is what keeps the acetone from evaporating?
 
Thanks for the information Bushpilot!

My Dad introduced me to Liquid Wrench in the '50s and I still use it (my last remaining can is probably 50 years old and almost empty). I added a can of Kroil 10-15 years ago and it, also, does a good job.

Next time I need some penetrant-action I am going to mix a small batch of the ATF/Acetone brew. :)
 
Next time I need some penetrant-action I am going to mix a small batch of the ATF/Acetone brew.

I've heard that after the mix sits for a while it needs to be shaken or stirred up a little before you use it because the AFT and acetone can separate.....
 
One question that I have with the acetone/ATF mixture is what keeps the acetone from evaporating?

The cap.

I've heard that after the mix sits for a while it needs to be shaken. . .

Certainly does, and it doesn't take a while. Separation is immediate, and vigorous shaking before every use is necessary. It's a great solution, but inconvenient to use.
 
I plan on creating it in small quantity, as needed, in a clear-plastic HDPE needle oiler so that should be no problem.

First thing that comes to mind; lower buttstock bolt on a fiberglass M14 stock that I have is tightly rusted into the rear sling swivel and soaking with Kroil & LiquidWrench has failed to fix the problem. :)
 
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