Lee FL dies

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jrkfantom

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I got the deluxe kit for 30-06 from lee. The neck sizing die works wonderfully, but i traded in my r770 for a mossberg 100 atr. I tried FL resizing (lubing the case and inside of the neck) and it just isn't working. I've dont full length resizing on pistols. When i run it in it is very tight, and the entire outside of the neck seems as though brass has been shaved off evenly all the way around. I've tried varying the amounts of lube i use but to no avail. Are my dies defective or am i doing something wrong?
 
"...and it just isn't working. "

It isn't "working"? A little help would help; do you mean your cases won't go into the die at all or they go in easy but nothing is happening or are the necks left so tight you can't get bullet in or ...?
 
I have been lubing outside from the bottom of the shoulder down with lee's lube that comes with their deluxe kits. I have dipped the necks (inside and out) in powdered micah. I had my father help me out, he loads .30-30, 8mm, and .223 and he couldn't figure it out. The cases don't seem to want to go in, which i expected from FL sizing a .30-06. The main problem I'm having though is, when i push it up into the die, the entire neck of the case is scratched. And it's bad, as in enough to make the entire thing dull (vs. Shiny) with scratches. It's a new die, but i took it apart and cleaning it and everything. Could it be a poorly manufactured die? Or perhaps the expander on the pin is too big?
 
I had a die that no matter what and how much or little lube was used , the cases would just screech. I finally had one start to seize so I popped it out. I sent it back and traded for another, all problems went away. I say if you cleaned the die thorough, are lubing properly, it is the right die, and it is scratching the brass, the die is bad. Replace it.

Powder mica ??? did you try the normal lube on the neck?
 
When I get cases that are extremely hard to full length size, I back out the die a couple of turns, then, run the case through, then, screw the die back in say 1/2 turn, then, run the case through again.

Continue this process unitl the case is sized with the die fully seated to the manufacturer's stated proper depth.

Yes, make sure you are starting with cleaned (tumbled) brass and the necks don't contain dirt or debris. Also, no need to dip the neck in lube. Small amount and progressive re-sizeing might just work for you.
 
Yes Mr. Jitters, I did try normal lube and that didn't alleviate the syptoms. The powdered micah came with a lyman case dipping kit, which is supposed to be superior to putting the wax on the neck.
 
What are you cleaning the die, with?

My Lee 223 dies started scratching the outside of my case necks real bad, basically from the start. I thought it was because I didn't clean my first batch of cases good enough and left some grit in the die. The necks were 100% completely covered top to bottom in hundreds of deep scratches. The scratches had scratches. This left the necks very dull and in stark contrast with the polished shoulders and bodies. Sounds like you might be describing the same thing.

I tried cleaning out the die, but it didn't help. I sorta said "oh well," and I shot hundreds of ugly, scratched up rounds without any issues, other than difficult sizing and a couple stuck cases. Finally tried the advice of a THR member. I cleaned out the neck of the die using 400 grit sandpaper over a Q-tip... even though I couldn't see anything wrong with the dies, at all! Wish I could remember who posted this, because it worked like a charm. I think the issue is that if the die is not polished well enough at the factory, the first time it is used, tiny bits of brass get embedded in the die.

This also happened to a couple of my Lee flaring dies, which caused similar scratching on the inside of my pistol brass. Basically the same problem, only it developed a little more gradually. Same solution; a little cleaning/polishing with fine grit sandpaper, and no more problems.
 
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With my die if you shined a light up in the die you could see a wavy pattern on the neck portion of it.It was basically dull cutter marks that the high spots were polished, but it grabbed the brass. Only a replacement die would work, to polish it smooth would have meant oversized necks. Look up in your die, I wouldn't doubt it if you see the same thing.
 
Mica isn't sufficient for lubing the outside of a case. I use spray lubes and don't lube the inside of case necks. I don't mean aerosol, like One Shot; spray, like Dillon, Frankford Arsenal, etc. Lay the brass down flat in a box and spray. The lube will migrate around the cases. Give the lube a chance to dry and load 'em up.
 
As far as I know, Mica is used to lubricate the necks of the brass and many high power rifle shooters use this method of lubrication with much success. The OP stated he used Lee's case lube for the body of the brass.

You might try polishing the resizing ball chucked in a drill and run lightly and evenly over a wetstone with a little spit or 3in1 oil. Check the dimension with a mic first, then verify that you only took off .0005" to .001". I would also look at polishing the inside of the die with some 0000 steel wool or very fine sand paper. This process with help with neck tension and should removed any burrs causing damage to the brass.

If any of this doesn't sound appealing, I would just contact LEE and have them send a replacement die; problem solved. Good luck.
 
How far is your sizing stem (its not a ball any more) inserted into the top of the die? It needs to be flush or just below flush. You may be binding the top of the decapping pin/sizing pin and the brass in the neck.
 
Scrap the Lee "Wax" type lube. I tried it when it first came out and abandoned it quickly.
Clean the die with some 400grit wet/dry sand paper.
I use STP from dept store or autoparts supplier.
I use the same RCBS lube pad I bought while in college in 1975.
A bottle of STP will last years.... start with about a table spoon on the pad, rub in well, and only slightly lube the cases.
STP and RCBS case lube are essentially the same thing, but STP cost much, much less and doesn't require ordering and paying shipping on it...
 
I have a 1 or 1 1/2 cup little spritzer bottle "atomizer" I think they call it. Put a toothpaste tube full of Lee lube in there, and mixed it 12 to 1 w/ 90% Isopropyl alcohol to make a slurry of sorts. Put my cases in a ziplock bag, squirt maybe 3 or 4 squirts, close the bag, roll the cases around inside over my fingers, and pour out on a towel. Works great, the iso evaporates quickly, and after sizing, the lube tumbles right off.
 
Scrap the Lee "Wax" type lube. I tried it when it first came out and abandoned it quickly.

I used the Lee lubricant with handgun cases before carbide dies were common place. It worked fine although a bit messy. At the time I was ultrasonic cleaning the cases and a water soluble lubricant was easier to clean than the other petroleum based lubricants of the day.

I also quickly abandoned it when I got more involved in rifle. I always felt I was on the verge of sticking a case in the die.

For the OP, as said, polish out the die, I use 400 and 600 grit wet/dry sand paper. Get a better lubricant. RCBS case lube and Imperial Die Sizing Wax seem to be the most popular.

Some folks use mink oil and ido not see why STP would not work.

A little lubricant goes a long way so even the small bottles/tins from the reloading companies last many, many years.
 
I've never chamfered a rifle case prior to sizing. After tens of thousands of rounds, no scratched dies yet! :eek:
 
"If you didnt chamfer (deburr?) the outside of the case neck, believe it or not the case can scratch the inside of the die."

My sizers are case hardened steel so hard a file won't touch it. My cases are soft brass and there's no way a case is going to scratch my dies.
 
The only way brass will scratch a die is if it has something embedded into it, which is always possible. Then it's no different than sandpaper or emery cloth. The paper or cloth won't scratch wood, but add the abrasive and most metals don't have a chance.
 
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