Let's talk about Bullet casting

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OK, so I spent the entire morning reading and watching youtube on bullet casting. I still admit I don't know much. I have always reloaded with plated or jacket. Anyway,

So all one needs is furnace in which to melt lead, a ladle (or pot with filling spigot), wooden malet, bullet molds and a water bucket to quench the bullets. Oh yeah of course, gloves, and nice gas mask and eye protection. :)

Lets say I did cast some bullets of lead, do you have to run them through a sizer? Is lube really needed for the sizing? For example, if the mold is .357, why run them through a sizer at all?

Do you really have to pay attention to bullet hardness, if say you were using tire weights as your lead? I sure don't want leading in my barrel(s).

Where do you buy lead at that is appropriate for casting? I checked out Midway, the lead they are selling is expensive. 30 lbs for 90 bucks. If thats the case, 30 lbs of lead will make ~1680 bullets for 125 grain .357 at 90 bucks. Sure there is some cost savings, but is it really worth it?

Is a gas check really needed?

Thanks, and Take care,
 
So all one needs is furnace in which to melt lead, a ladle (or pot with filling spigot), wooden malet, bullet molds and a water bucket to quench the bullets. Oh yeah of course, gloves, and nice gas mask and eye protection

Furnace-check.
Ladle-check.
Broke hammer handle-check.
molds-check.
Water-not necessary.
Gloves-check.
gas mask-maybe if melting ww's.
eye protection-definitely.

As far as the sizer, you will have top slug your barrel to see what the diameter is(or cylinder if revolver) and then see what diameter your bullets drop out of the mold at, then you will know if you need a sizer or not. if you are using Lee tumble lube molds you should be able to shoot them as cast(lubed of course). You want the bullet .001"-.002" over your slug diameter.

Hardness will be determined by caliber and velocity. What calibers are you gonna cast for? Most pistol rounds will work just fine with ww's as cast, no water hardening needed.

I sell ww's here in the sale forum as do others from time to time. 57.00 for 50+lbs shipped from me. .90/lb + shipping. Already melted and poured into ingots, all you have to do is drop them in your pot and go.

As far as gas checks, you won't need them unless you are hitting max velocity in most calibers, and some calibers won't go that fast.
 
Cast Bullets -General information

Lets say I did cast some bullets of lead, do you have to run them through a sizer? Is lube really needed for the sizing? For example, if the mold is .357, why run them through a sizer at all?
No sizing with some of Lee's tumble lube moulds. These are lubed with liquid alox. Your alloy will give you different size bullets as the drop from the mould. High % of lead, smaller diameter. High % of antimony larger in diameter.
Do you really have to pay attention to bullet hardness, if say you were using tire weights as your lead? I sure don't want leading in my barrel(s)
2% tin in the alloy will keep bullets from leading. Water dropping will harden the bullets, but heat treating in an oven is a better process. Cast Bullets- General Information
Casting bullets
Bullet Sizes & Weights – How to Vary Them

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if you bullets drop from the mould undersize using 50/50 -WW& Pure Lead, you will need to add more wheel weight to increase there diameter. Lead shrinks more as it cools in the mould then wheel weights. Linotype can be added to increase bullet diameter also.
Quote:
The bullet diameters and weights presented in this list
are based on the use of Taracorp’s Lawrence Magnum
bullet alloy (2% tin, 6% antimony, 1/4% arsenic,
91.75% lead).
Bullet diameters and weights will vary considerably
depending on the lead casting alloy used. This variation
can be as much as 1/2% on the diameter, and 8% on
the weight among the most commonly used casting
alloys. For example, a .358-158 grain bullet might
show a diameter variation of .002", and a 13 grain difference
in weight.
Of the most commonly used alloys, wheel weights (.5%
tin, 4% antimony, 95% lead) will produce bullets having
the smallest diameter and heaviest weight, with
such bullets running approximately .3% smaller in
diameter and 3% heavier than bullets cast with
Taracorp's metal. Linotype will produce bullets with the
largest diameter and lightest weights. This alloy will
produce bullets approximately 1/10% larger and 3%
lighter than Taracorp. Other alloys of tin and antimony,
with antimony content above 5%, will produce bullets
with diameters and weights falling between those cast
from wheel weights and linotype.
Alloys containing little or no antimony will cast considerably
smaller than wheel weights and in some cases
will produce bullets too small for adequate sizing.
Within the limitations given above, the weight and
diameter of a cast bullet can be adjusted by varying the
alloy’s antimony content.
The size and weight of bullets of a given alloy will also
vary according to casting temperature. Higher temperatures
will result in greater shrinkage as the bullet
cools, thereby producing a slightly smaller and lighter
bullet than one cast of the same alloy at a lower temperature Cast Bullets

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Water dropping of bullets was invented to reduce the amout of costly alloys using tin and antimony. United States Patent 5464487 http://www.freepatentsonline.com/5464487.htmlI fine water dropping to be a waste of time when casting bullets with the proper alloy. Water and hot alloy can explode it they come in contact with each other. "While antimony is used to harden the bullet, the mixture of tin is critical, for while antimony mixes with lead in its molten state, it will not remain mixed when it solidifies. If tin were not added, we would have pure antimony crystals surrounded by pure lead. A bullet of this type , while it feels hard , would certainly lead the bore and eliminate all potential for accuracy. In a lead-tin-antimony mixture, the antimony crystals will be present just the same, but they will be imbedded in a lead-tin mixutre. As the bullet cools the tin will form around the antimony-lead keeping your bullets from leading the bore." I have read that this process can take up to 24 hours as the alloy oxidizes. If your going to size a cast bullet, wait 1 day. Plain base bullets to 1400fps, gas checked to 2200fps without leading. Check Lee lead testing chat for the maximum pressure allowed for you alloy hardness. Also us the formula > Bullet's BHN x 1422 = Pounds per square inch. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Obturate Cast alloy bullets should never Obturate. The bullet is sized over groove diameter by .0005" to .001" Some rifles will like as much as .003" over groove diameter. Casting bullets is really simple most times. If the bullet diameter is correct as it drops for the mould, you are good to go. Pure lead will be undersize in diameter, unless using a BP mould. High antimony will be on the large size. Always make sure you have 2 % tin in the alloy and you will never have leading. 22LR bullet have little to no tin and only 3 % antimony at the most. They some how don't lead the bore. This is where a very good lube is needed. Bullets i have cast over 30+ years without water dropping. CastBullets_20090207_004.jpg
 
As previously stated, mask and water are optional.

As far as cost, I agree. The only reason to buy casting lead to make bullets is to get a specific design that is not available commercially. This is a small minority of bullet casters. Most, myself included, have cultivated sources of lead that are low-cost to no-cost. I usually sell a percentage of what I get. At this point all my lead (about 3,000 lbs) and casting equipment is effectively free, not counting my time.

Sizing is required only if the bullets will not chamber in your gun as cast.

Lubing is always required. If you don't wish to size you can pan lube or use Lee Liquid Alox (LLA) and tumble lube. While Lee does make bullets that are designed only for use with LLA, you can use LLA to lube any bullet. LLA came first, the tumble lube bullet design later.

Water quenching bullets can perform several functions. It prevents you from burning your fingers cause you are too stupid to leave them purty bullets alone after they drop from the mold. It solidifies the lead completely so the bullets don't get banged up when they fall out of the mold. If the lead alloy contains a grain refining agent (usually antimony, but copper will work too I am told), the quenching greatly increases hardness.

Water also provides a great deal of excitement when you get a tiny amount under the surface of molten lead. It provides a catastrophe if you get any more than said tiny amount.
 
For a 357 mag I just use straight wheel weights with water quench. I don't know if the quenching works for hardness or not it is just how I like to do it.

I use paraffin wax for flux. Just drop a small piece in and run your ladle through the pot and skim the dust off the top. Watch it will catch fire and startle you even after doing it 500 times. :)

I never used a mask as I do not melt enough to worry about. (5000 bullets per year)

I like the bottom pour furnace from Lee so fluxing is not as critical.

My mold is a Tumble Lube 158gr SWC from Lee and never resized a bullet yet. I just use liquid alox for lube and it works great.

Hope this helps.
 
Flux cleans the impurities out of the lead. It will float to the top and then you can skim the trash off. Like rcmodel stated, it is not optional.
 
Flux performs a couple of functions. It provides a binder for any impurities to allow them to be removed. It also creates an oxygen reduction reaction in the tin and antimony oxide that form at the surface of the molten alloy. This releases the valuable alloy metals back into to pot, rather than wasting them.

Don't go buying an expensive flux. Candle wax, bees wax, even sawdust work fine as a flux. When I am refining scrap in a dutch oven, used motor oil mixed with sawdust is my flux. Works fabulous.
 
I checked out Midway, the lead they are selling is expensive. 30 lbs for 90 bucks. If thats the case, 30 lbs of lead will make ~1680 bullets for 125 grain .357 at 90 bucks.

I'm betting that price does not include shipping. ;)
 
if your looking to buy lead and tin because there is known locally available look on ebay. Recently I bought 28 pounds of lead ingots that came from wheel weights for about $1/lbs. after shipping. Also can find tin and other metals for alloying if working with pure lead.
Wheel weights make the perfect alloyed lead. Useually they are pre alloyed to the perfect hardness. I always wesize all of my bullets but only because I want consistency in everything I am doing. Lube is critical but make your own. 1 large tub of vaseline (about 1lbs), 1lbs paraffin canning wax, 1 tbls of marvel mystery oil. Add a few crayons for color. I use a $10 crok pot to melt it all down. Bullets are placed in a flexable baking tray and fill with liquafied lube till the last ring is just covered with wax. Happy shooting.

Remember keepum below 1200fps or leading will occur.
 
Remember keepum below 1200fps or leading will occur.
I don't know why this keeps getting repeated. All it takes for more velocity is the right mix of bullet hardness, size, lube, etc. :)
 
FLUXING-Heat the alloy for about 20 minutes until it becomes liquid. A gray scum will rise to the surface, this is Tin. Tin being lighter , will float to the top of the mix. Fluxing will recombine the tin -lead-antimony mix. To flux , drop in tallow, beeswax or bullet lubricant (beeswax),. Stir the mixture, scrape the sides/botton of the pot. Black and brown impurities will rise to the surface for skimming. Zinc wheel weight should be avoided as zinc keeps the bullet from filling out completely, sometimes using more heat will help. Avoid any/all Bismuth alloys. Alloys containing high percentages (52% +) of Bismuth will grow bigger in diameter after 3 days. Radiation Shielding may have Bismuth in it. PDF file here>http://www.aimspecialty.com/AIM-fliers/Radiation-Shielding%20Alloys.pdf More on Bismuth here > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bismuth A high content of Bismuth will cause the mix to melt at a much lower temperature .Lee mould are regulated using 10-1 lead/tin alloy and should drop from the mould .003" larger than the diameter listed on the mould. Lyman uses there #2 alloy to get the correct bullet diameter as it drops for the mould.90% lead , 5 tin, 5 antimony. To make #2 alloy, use 5 1/2 lbs wheel weight, 1lb 50/50 lead/ tin bar solder, 3 1/2 lbs pure lead.
 
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Radiation Shielding has Bismuth in it.

AIM radiation shielding has bismuth in it. I am certain others do as well. Many do not. I have dealt with over 5000 pounds of radiation shielding in my geography, and so far all of it has cast excellent bullets. It has been a an 80/20 ratio of containers made from alloy vs. pure lead It has exhibited neither very low melting points (550° for the alloys, 620° for the pure) nor bullets that expand after casting. The alloy bullets take heat treatment very well, gaining 2-2.5X the BHN after quenching.

If you get chance to pick up some shielding, don't pass it up. Take it and try it.

And to reiterate what walkalong says, plenty of guys push lead far beyond 1200 fps with the right lube/size/hardness/peak pressure without leading, and plenty of guys get ton's of leading at far below 1200 fps with the wrong lube/size/hardness/peak pressure. castboolits.com is the place to learn, as well as the los angeles silhouette club site.
 
Lyman - Heat Treatment of Cast Bullets to Harden Them

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Quote:
Q: Is there anything I can do to make the bullets harder?
A: Cast bullets can be heat treated to increase their hardness providing your alloy has some antimony present. To heat treat your bullets: Cast your bullets in the normal manner, saving several scrap bullets. Size your bullets but do not lubricate them. Place several scrap bullets on a pan in your oven at 450 degrees and increase the temperature until the bullets start to melt or slump. Be sure to use an accurate oven thermometer and a pan that will not be used again for food. Once the bullets start to melt or slump, back off the temperature about 5 to 10 degrees and slide in your first batch of good bullets. Leave these in the oven for a half hour. Remove the bullets from the oven and plunge them into cool water. Allow them to cool thoroughly. When you are ready to lubricate, install a sizing die .001" larger than the one used to initially size them. This will prevent the sides of the bullets from work-softening from contact with the sizing die. Next apply gas checks if required and lubricate. These are now ready for loading.

Many more casting tips at Lyman, look here>> http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/f...et-casting.php
 
Dropping wheel weight bullets in water to harden them is a waste of time, and possibly dangerous if a drop of water gets in the melted lead.
A steam explosion in a lead pot will ruin your day!

If the truth be known, more problems are caused by bullets being too hard then by ones that are too soft.

At normal target / practice load velocity, the softer the better.

Factory loaded non-magnum lead bullets have been for many years, soft swaged out of near pure lead.

They don't cause leading and shoot remarkably well.

As for leading?
.22 RF bullets are soft swaged lead, and run 1,200 - 1,300 FPS normally with absolutely no leading at all.

Cast lead wheelweight bullets can do the same without hardening if you use the correct size bullet and good lube.

rc
 
I water drop and have never had an issue. I place the bucket behind me so I pour, turn, drop. By the time I turn to drop the bullets are cool enough to drop from the mold and are not molten. If any water splashes up it's stopped by the towel I drape over the bucket mouth.

Water and molten lead aren't good. Water and hot lead are not an issue.
 
radiation shielding has bismuth in it....................so far all of it has cast excellent bullets
Good. I may soon get my hands on about 30 to 40 "bricks" (red brick sized) of sheilding used in our hot lab. They are doing away with it.


I started out water dropping when I was casting, just because it was easier, and I kept it away from my pot. Wheelweights with a touch of 95/5 solder water dropped never leaded in 9MM, 44 Spl, or .45 ACP, so I never changed.

I have seen plumbers accidentally empty a lead pot before and it will really get your attention. It just explodes. My boss is a master plumber and has shared some stories as well. (kid brother who did not believe etc)
Water and molten lead aren't good
Serious understatement. :eek: :D
 
Bismith Thread link.

See last post of Thread http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=432988
I found the alchemy site (that's where I cut and pasted the data specs from). I called and the gentleman on the phone told me that it wouldn't work due to the brittle nature of the bismuth. I asked him about adding it to plain lead to stretch my supply, and he said it wouldn't be worth it. I guess I'll pass for now. (a real shame, it was 20 cents a lb.)
http://www.alchemycastings.com/index.htm What will the hot gas do to the base of the bullet if it melts at 158 F or 202F degrees?:confused: Maybe with 20% or less of Bismuth?:confused: Will the bullet grow or shrink after 3 day?
 
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243winxb, we are on the same page that bismuth is bad.

The point I wanted to make is that lots of radiations shielding is from pure lead, lots from alloys identical to WW. I have never encountered any yet that behaved as if it had any bismuth in it. I am sure is is out there, as the link to the AIM data sheet shows. But AIM is just one supplier, and they don't identify whom they supply or why.

The shielding I get is from a radio-pharmacy, and is good lead for bullets.
 
That is something I saw and wondered how he did it, but I didn't wonder long enough to think about trying it. Absolutely not!!!:what: I don't wanna know how or why, it scares me thinking some idiot out there will try it and get hurt. :banghead:
 
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