MarshallDodge
Member
It's the third pedal on the leftclutch?
I had to google what it was as well...
It's the third pedal on the leftclutch?
I have a Gray Ops "thumb rest" that I do that with on the Matrix. it worked well on the Kestrel stage where there was about an inch of surface for the bag.Putting your “steering” out in front of the fulcrum does a better job of catching recoil and keeping the muzzle down and on target
My last big ticket item is going to be......
Whatever you do, DO NOT look through image stabilized binos
The forward grip for free recoil isn’t a solution for every barricade, but for many, many obstacles, it works exceptionally well. Putting your “steering” out in front of the fulcrum does a better job of catching recoil and keeping the muzzle down and on target instead of putting the steering pressure down on top of the scope, pinching the fulcrum. But there’s less to hold onto out front, and getting your arm around an obstacle to get your hand down to hold the forend like a 3 Gun “costa clamp” doesn’t always work. So the clutch gives a better connection between the hand and stock.
Looking at the steering “support hand:
This:
View attachment 998088
View attachment 998087
Instead of this:
View attachment 998089
View attachment 998090
But in many cases, the steering hand over the top still offers the best stability, so I don’t over commit to the clutch grip. For example: I’ve tried for 2 years now to get comfortable on the tip of tank traps with the Clutch/handstop, and I simply can’t get there. I’m much more stable with my hand on top of the scope. I eat a little more muzzle jump in recoil, but I have more impacts on target. But over wider fulcrums like railroad ties, barrels, or tires, or the center of tank traps, the Clutch/handstop grip has the clear advantage for me.
As with all advertising that says this about baked on carbon in rifle barrels it is unadulterated BS, but I say that in the in the kindest way, I never expected it to actually do that, just help out.Simply put it on a patch or a mop and swab it thru the barrel and it immediately dissolves and removes all carbon.
As with all advertising that says this about baked on carbon in rifle barrels it is unadulterated BS
Are the cracks the result of excess heating and quick cooling which causes localized hardened steel and cracking which eventually flakes off? Throat erosion?