Loosening a screw

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orpington said:
If one were to drill screws, how would one ever find replacement screws? That suggestion makes me shudder!
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Unfortunately the risk is always there that a fine screw head will snap even without additional mechanical leverage being applied. If that happens you really don’t have much choice. If this was a restoration vs a repair those screws would already be considered trashed and you would be sourcing nos fasteners or having them machined
 
Okay the three screws thus removed are the one at the upper tang beneath the barrel release lever, the one in the lower tang, and the one beneath the trigger guard in the lower tang once the trigger guard is removed.

The one in the plate of the underside of the frame I just cannot budge. Tried tightening the other way, several blows to it with a brass punch, and heating the action over a gas burner to the point where it was uncomfortable to the touch. Still won’t budge. Now on workbench with Kroil on it. As tight as this is, seems hard to believe Kroil will work its way in—but maybe?!
 
Heat and cool. Lots of cycles. Once took me 2 years to loosen a turn off barrel on a 230 year old flintlock. I dont know if it helped but I always added penetrating oil on the heat cycle. I had the advantage of being able to put the action in the freezer. Sounds like that isn't an option for you.

Once it moved the tiniest fraction it was off 10 minutes later.
 
I’ve found penetrating oil to help sometimes on some things, but I’ve not worked on many guns that were so bad that things didn’t come loose with normal methods.

I did however have some lug nuts that wouldn’t come lose and the mechanic shop couldn’t get loose. They suggested penetrating oil. I had some liquid wrench penetrating oil (not the standard LW).l that I applied over several days and sure enough, I was able to break them loose.

I used kroil on a stick Lyman 55 slide and I did get it loose. I would have gotten it loose regardless cause I’m not a giver upper, so did it help? Yes it did, but I did my part too.
 
"If one were to drill screws, how would one ever find replacement screws? That suggestion makes me shudder!"

Need to get a lathe and learn to use it. I've made several screws when there was nothing left of the original to go by--had to run a tapered piece of wood into the hole and measure the pitch from the marks on the wood.
 
jdsingleshot said:
"If one were to drill screws, how would one ever find replacement screws? That suggestion makes me shudder!"

Need to get a lathe and learn to use it. I've made several screws when there was nothing left of the original to go by--had to run a tapered piece of wood into the hole and measure the pitch from the marks on the wood.
Click to expand...

Considering the (wood-screw) threads do not show, a like screw can be used without the need of a Lathe.
Finding that like screw and filing the head (spinning in a drill chuck) to match the oval shape of the original screw is all that's needed, no lathe needed.
That said, I believe the screw shown in the #1 post actually goes through the wood and threads into the lower tang via a machine thread.
jmo,
.
 
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Finding a like screw is a chore. 1890s and previous guns often have screws like nothing made today. Even through the 1970s makers felt no responsibility to think of standardization of screws. When was the last time any of us saw a package of 1/8"-32 tpi screws? I have no experience with more recent guns.
 
Bazoo said:
Sir, can you elaborate on what more is involved than size and pitch?
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Shape, diameter, depth and drive type of the head (slotted*, philips, torx, square, etc), thread length on the shank, shank tip, thread angle, color, metal of which it's made (you don't want a screw that's going to rust in place due to galvanic action), hoo boy, it can go on and on, and you're quite correct if you're implying it's not that easy to perfectly match a screw. Sometimes it has to be good enough to just work, and not be a perfect replacement. But even the "gun screws" don't necessarily work. I bought such a screw for $2.79 as a replacement set screw for one of my Enfields' cocking piece's firing pin retention, and while it was the proper size and thread pitch, and screwed in just fine, the head was too small!! So I had to order a reproduction replacement screw for something like $12, including tax and shipping, from Numrich. For one little screw!!

*and slotted gun screws generally don't have the same slots as ordinary screws, which is what sometimes gets people in trouble when they use ordinary slotted screwdrivers to drive them.
 
Hugger-4641 said:
That thought crossed my mind, but I've never used mine on a screw that small. I wonder if there is a smaller version available designed for smaller screws?
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You can get bits about any size you want. Smaller screws, lighter taps.
 
orpington said:
Okay the three screws thus removed are the one at the upper tang beneath the barrel release lever, the one in the lower tang, and the one beneath the trigger guard in the lower tang once the trigger guard is removed.

The one in the plate of the underside of the frame I just cannot budge. Tried tightening the other way, several blows to it with a brass punch, and heating the action over a gas burner to the point where it was uncomfortable to the touch. Still won’t budge. Now on workbench with Kroil on it. As tight as this is, seems hard to believe Kroil will work its way in—but maybe?!
Click to expand...
If it is a steel screw in a steel frame, NOT WOOD, use the kroil and the impact drive. Just tap it a few times every 8 hours or so. Just enough to set up a little vibration action and allow a new spot for the penetrating oil to seep in to. No need to hit it hard or anything, just remind it you are still waiting.

IF you just can't stand it and have to try some heat, get a bolt of something about the same or smaller diameter as the screw head. Hold the head of that in some vice grips and heat it with a torch flame. When it is hot then take it out of the flame and hold that to he head of the screw. I've never seen anything ruined that way.

So far.
 
wiscoaster said:
Shape, diameter, depth and drive type of the head (slotted*, philips, torx, square, etc), thread length on the shank, shank tip, thread angle, color, metal of which it's made (you don't want a screw that's going to rust in place due to galvanic action), hoo boy, it can go on and on, and you're quite correct if you're implying it's not that easy to perfectly match a screw. Sometimes it has to be good enough to just work, and not be a perfect replacement. But even the "gun screws" don't necessarily work. I bought such a screw for $2.79 as a replacement set screw for one of my Enfields' cocking piece's firing pin retention, and while it was the proper size and thread pitch, and screwed in just fine, the head was too small!! So I had to order a reproduction replacement screw for something like $12, including tax and shipping, from Numrich. For one little screw!!

*and slotted gun screws generally don't have the same slots as ordinary screws, which is what sometimes gets people in trouble when they use ordinary slotted screwdrivers to drive them.
Click to expand...
Jesus Christ, you would get along with my old man. That man knows screws like nobodies business. You do too, that much is clear.
 
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