Kroil and heat works well, I have read. But how long should the Kroil work its way in? Also, with regards to heat, how should one apply heat to a screw in an action with a wooden stock? In fact, the screw I am trying to remove is to facilitate stock removal.
Loosening a screw
- Thread starter orpington
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Kroil and heat works well, I have read. But how long should the Kroil work its way in? Also, with regards to heat, how should one apply heat to a screw in an action with a wooden stock? In fact, the screw I am trying to remove is to facilitate stock removal.
Bazoo
Member
I have found impact to work well too. Take a blade screwdriver that fits to the bottom of the slot and hit it with a hammer light/med. that breaks the grip many times and is an easy thing to try before more potentially harmful means.
I use ATF and acetone instead of Kroil, bubba Ed's Red, let it soak.
That will take care of the screw head rust, but not any rust on the threads that are way done at the other end of the screw.
Then
Put the tip of an electric soldering gun on the head of the screw to warm it up.
I do that for Loctited screws too, softens it up for easy screw removal.
jmo,
Edit:
You have to go at this by excepting that the screw is toast and will need to be replaced once removed.
Go about this with the mindset of NOT causing damage to anything else.
To that end, I suggest you use an "automatic center punch" in the screw slot angled to rotate the screw CCW.
Center Punch - Automatic Center Punch with Brass Handle (harborfreight.com)
or
Amazon.com : automatic center punch
That will be the vibration part of the 3-pronged attack mentioned in post #4 by @Hugger-4641.
.
.
That will take care of the screw head rust, but not any rust on the threads that are way done at the other end of the screw.
Then
Put the tip of an electric soldering gun on the head of the screw to warm it up.
I do that for Loctited screws too, softens it up for easy screw removal.
jmo,
Edit:
You have to go at this by excepting that the screw is toast and will need to be replaced once removed.
Go about this with the mindset of NOT causing damage to anything else.
To that end, I suggest you use an "automatic center punch" in the screw slot angled to rotate the screw CCW.
Center Punch - Automatic Center Punch with Brass Handle (harborfreight.com)
or
Amazon.com : automatic center punch
That will be the vibration part of the 3-pronged attack mentioned in post #4 by @Hugger-4641.
.
.
Last edited:
Hugger-4641
Member
Three things that help loosen screws:
Penetrating oil
Heat
Vibration
All three have been mentioned already, but the method of application can make a difference.
You've used Kroil and it works , I prefer PB blaster. Whatever you use, it needs to soak in overnight.
Heat, I would apply with a heavy duty solder iron directly to the screw head. If you can't source a solder iron, heat the tip of a proper sized screw driver red hot then apply to the screw.
Vibration, you could repeatedly tap a screw driver or driver bit with a small hammer, but an engraver to the center of the screw slot might be more effective.
Repeated cycles of oil/vibration/heat should eventually free the screw.
Penetrating oil
Heat
Vibration
All three have been mentioned already, but the method of application can make a difference.
You've used Kroil and it works , I prefer PB blaster. Whatever you use, it needs to soak in overnight.
Heat, I would apply with a heavy duty solder iron directly to the screw head. If you can't source a solder iron, heat the tip of a proper sized screw driver red hot then apply to the screw.
Vibration, you could repeatedly tap a screw driver or driver bit with a small hammer, but an engraver to the center of the screw slot might be more effective.
Repeated cycles of oil/vibration/heat should eventually free the screw.
Jack Ryan
Member
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- Jan 29, 2019
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- 777
Use an impact screw driver.
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS
Start with "little taps" and make sure the bit is a perfect fit.
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPPATS
Start with "little taps" and make sure the bit is a perfect fit.
Hugger-4641
Member
That thought crossed my mind, but I've never used mine on a screw that small. I wonder if there is a smaller version available designed for smaller screws?
Yes, but if you look at the slot in the screw it’s very shallow.
nettlle
Contributing Member
I've used a sharp center punch and a hammer on the edge of screw to loosen them also.
Impact driver with a small dead blow hammer would be my first choice. When or if the screw head breaks, penetrating oil then center punch and drill slowly with a left hand cobalt bit. Keep the drill squared and centered, in most cases the heat and action of the drill will back the screw out. If not a little heat (solder gun trick is a good one, I use a fine point on butane solder gun), then the correct size extractor. I used to dread stuck or broken tiny screws but came across so many in my work that this method became routine, rarely did I have to retap.
I don't use an impact driver often, but when the need arises I use this handy Laser Micro driver, as it affords the opportunity to use all the Magna-bits and other hex driver bits.
The problem with most common drivers are they don't have an adapter to use the common gunsmith sized driver bits.
The problem with most common drivers are they don't have an adapter to use the common gunsmith sized driver bits.
Kp321
Member
Wow! I learned something new today. Use old wood bits for custom ground screwdrivers. Genius!
Obturation
Member
I've never found penetration oil to do anything at all except catch fire when you've got to take it apart for real. I work on some of the most rotted fasteners on earth - Chicago cars. Heat is your friend, a soldering iron applied to the screw head will heat the screw, if you've oiled it, wait until it starts to smoke a little. Vibration is good, a proper hollow ground screwdriver is a must. If it were me, I'd heat the screw, insert screwdriver and hit it a few times with a hammer, turn to the right just a little and try to loosen it. Soaking in oil will absorb into the wood and make it soft and icky, oil may work somehow for people who aren't me but in my universe it's useless.
243winxb
Member
A screw in the wood, no heat or fluids. Vibration best like post #2. Short rapid lite to heavier taps, while turning. Have 3 hands? It helps.
I have modified screw driver tips, to fit slot perfectly.
I have modified screw driver tips, to fit slot perfectly.
One old plumbers trick is to first try to turn that screw in a TIGHTNING direction...........Penetrating fluids, heat, freezing, impact.......mostly all work to one degree or another, but I've found that before any of those I first try that tighting method............saved my projects more than once.............most recently on an antique Remington model 14 with a stuck (and I MEAN rusted as hell stuck) mag tube...........took a bbl vise and wrench but once I went forward, back eased it out!!
wiscoaster
Member
I've used a small (25 watt) soldering iron to heat frozen screws. Your sense of smell will warn you before you've got the screw too hot. But I don't think heat is all that effective anyway if it's in wood. Ice might be more appropriate (along with all the other "tricks" for frozen screws).
Bazoo
Member
I’ve had good luck using my battery powered impact driver. Now, ya got to be careful the bit don’t slip and walk all over your gun. Masking tape some thin cardboard with a hole in it over the screw head to protect the gun.
Didn't use old ones but for $20 new bucks you can get the long (butt stock bolts) / short shank sets for host hollow ground big / unusual bit applications; edges chamfered / polished every so slightly to not marr the screw slots. Fabrication of good sized driver handles from Brownells, bored to accept hex adapters at various depths to
offer differing distances from the work to maximize control of the object fastener. Set screws used to take up every bit of mechanical felt slack when using hex bits in common drivers e.g. Brownells magna-tip sets, which can cause screw slot marring due to slippage, even if the bit-slot size match s perfect. Also, for Remington magazine cap screws, a nice alternative when protected pliers are not up to the task of removal.
Some examples of how I employ them.
Slow going, but all these tips were quite helpful, all used except didn’t use heat or cold. Three screws out so far, still haven’t removed the stock.
Reason for this: Early and we’ll used A H Fox A Grade No 2998 Safety stuck in the “Safe” position, been that way for the decade I owned it, but this was a $50 flea market find.
Reason for this: Early and we’ll used A H Fox A Grade No 2998 Safety stuck in the “Safe” position, been that way for the decade I owned it, but this was a $50 flea market find.
wiscoaster
Member
earlthegoat2
Member
Pretty much what I have found as well. I find that amateurs often suggest penetrating oil when heat and the inevitable replacement of the part is what really is going to happen. Penetrating oil may work if you have enough time. I do not have time...ever. And I dont think many others do either. The suggestion of any penetrant, even Kroil, is a waste of time. Go for heat, the drill, or both first and save yourself a little time.
Steve762us
Member
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- Jun 26, 2011
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- 219
Along with penetrating oil of whatever flavor, I've had luck immobilizing the work piece and pressing a well-fit bit into slot (with downward pressure), with some torque applied to driver, while tapping butt of driver with other hand--getting shock/vibration and torsion applied, simultaneously.
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