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Magnet Doesn't Stick to Stainless Revolver?

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WaltWhite

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Dec 20, 2013
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I have a Pietta stainless revolver. Every part of this gun seems 400 series like it should be (i.e. magnetic). However the frame seems to be made of something clearly different (and non-magnetic). Seems a bit light weight too compared to 400 stainless, but almost certainly isn't that terrible plated zinc stuff you find in cheap Lorcins and Jennings.

Anybody have any thoughts what this frame might be made of?
 
If it's stainless and not magnetic, it's very likely a 300 series stainless.

But you honestly won't be able to tell the difference in weight between 300 series and 400 series stainless...the differences in densities between all the different alloys in those series just isn't enough for you to perceive it.

I don't know if the frame is required to be hardened...if so, then a 300 series stainless would not be the material used for this because it's not hardenable by heat treatment. In general, if it's hardenable then it'll be magnetic as well.
 
Huh... I know it's not magnetic, and the manufacturer lists it as stainless so I guess it has to be 300 series? Anyone know if any form of worked 300 series can stand up to use? This is one of their 1858 Remington clones.

I know a lot of guns modern revolvers out there have aluminum frames and the like so I imagine 300 is on the same level of durability?
 
Don't they also make that with a brass frame? I would think the SS would be stronger than brass, in any case.
 
Funny thing about stainless fasteners.... As a guy who rigs his own boats and works in a saltwater environment, finding decent stainless fasteners that aren't rust prone can be difficult. One test I was taught long ago was to bring a magnet with me to the marine hardware store and reject any fittings or fasteners that the magnet could pick up... and I find them regularly in boxes of otherwise non-magnetic stainless...
 
I'm no expert on steel types, but recently bought a stainless fridge that magnets don't stick to, so I looked up why that is... found that stainless steel normally has nickel mixed into it, and if magnets don't stick then it usually means it has more nickel in the mix, which is a good thing for corrosion resistance. Is nickel used in stainless steel for guns as well? I have no idea how the strength compares between nickel and iron.
 
I'm no expert on steel types, but recently bought a stainless fridge that magnets don't stick to, so I looked up why that is... found that stainless steel normally has nickel mixed into it, and if magnets don't stick then it usually means it has more nickel in the mix, which is a good thing for corrosion resistance. Is nickel used in stainless steel for guns as well? I have no idea how the strength compares between nickel and iron.

Non-magnetic grades of stainless have a different atomic arrangement than magnetic grades.

A basic stainless steel has a 'ferritic' structure and is magnetic. These are formed from the addition of chromium and can be hardened through the addition of carbon (making them 'martensitic') and are often used in cutlery. However, the most common stainless steels are 'austenitic' - these have a higher chromium content and nickel is also added. It is the nickel which modifies the physical structure of the steel and makes it non-magnetic.
 
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Generally, the stainless steel used in kitchen appliances, sinks, et al is 303 stainless. It is a relatively low cost stainless steel that resists chemicals found in the kitchen well.

Generally, the nickel alloyed in 300 series stainless steel makes it non-magnetic.

Generally, 400 series stainless steel does not have nickel as one of the alloying metals and is magnetic.

Yes, the nickel is the main difference between magnetic and non-magnetic but even 400 series stainless steel is less magnetic than plain steel or iron.

Remember, it is "stainless" not "stain proof". Stainless steel can corrode under some circumstances.
 
Remember, it is "stainless" not "stain proof". Stainless steel can corrode under some circumstances.

There are many circumstances that can corrode stainless steels.

Almost all grades are prone to chloride corrosion, though some at slow enough rates to be useful in a salt marine environment.

The chloride strips the chromium layer on the surface off, exposing the iron that can then rust.
 
I've found that the Chinese have a secret formula for stainless that allows it to rust no matter what the application.

Knives, tools, hardware, etc., they all have the magic formula. :rolleyes:
 
I've found that the Chinese have a secret formula for stainless that allows it to rust no matter what the application.

Knives, tools, hardware, etc., they all have the magic formula. :rolleyes:
I would think that is because there is more carbon in it not enough chromium or nickel. Actually "stainless" with more carbon is a good knife
 
Sorry but pet peeve time.

Just because it does not appear to be magnetic, does not mean it is not magnetic. What you are discussing is paramagnetism. First off, Ferromagnetism is essentially material that has a stable magnet field (below the curie temp). Paramagnetic material is similar (it will be attracted to a magnet) but may or may not have sufficient strength to be held to a magnet and are magnetic if the presence of a magnet. Most materials are slightly paramagentic in an AC susceptibility unit, ie everything from carbon steel to your dishes, to the shirt on your back). Diamagnetic material are repelled by magnetic fields and will actually be repulsed by magnetic fields. Some Organics, oil products, plastics, certain rocks etc are diamagnetic. Most are just slightly diamagnetic though so it comes down to how good of a susceptibility bridge you have and your material setup up if you end up as weakly diamagnetic or weakly paramagnetic materials.

Some plastics can be made to go from diamagnetic to paramagnetic under oscillating electromagnetic fields which is kind of neat to play with.

So, the safe bet is to say that the stainless steel has a low paramagnetic nature but it is not ferromagnetic.
 
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I'm not concerned about paramagnetism or how corrosion resistant it is, I'm wondering how well it holds up to use as a firearm frame (i.e., strength, durability).
 
to answer the primary question, will it hold up, been shooting mine at N-SSA for over 10 yrs. over 2K rounds down range, no problems, and I do a complete cleaning and inspection after every match. Also no sign of rust etc.
 
I've found that the Chinese have a secret formula for stainless that allows it to rust no matter what the application.

Knives, tools, hardware, etc., they all have the magic formula. :rolleyes:
I use "stainless" piping for acid lines regularly. On a job a few years back, the piping contractor ordered the correct grade of stainless from his vendor. Within a week, elbows were pin holed.

Yep, you guessed it, Chinese mystery metal. I now spec out that stainless must come from a US or European ISO rated company.

I know of a hospital where the 316L used in a deionized water system started to leak at threaded joints within a couple of months. They ask me to look into it. Two seconds with a magnet proved it wasn't 316L even if it was marked that. Oh, and the second second was used to identify it as of Chinese origin.
 
The weight issue

The weight of a handgun can be very subjective. When ever I pick up a Luger re-intro from Mauser in the 70's it feels too light to me. Yet on the scale its very close to a vintage Luger in weight.
 
I'm not concerned about paramagnetism or how corrosion resistant it is, I'm wondering how well it holds up to use as a firearm frame (i.e., strength, durability).
The man was trying to answer your question about stainless and a magnet. A black powder revolver has barely any pressure and even my brass framed Remington has held up to thousands of rounds and still tight. Your gun frame has to be stronger then the brass ones and you answered your own question saying some modern guns have aluminum frames and hold up under much more pressure then black powder
 
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