Marlin X7VH Problem with bolt

[Teppa82]

Good evening everyone,
I introduce myself.
I am writing from far away from you.
Precisely from Italy
In Italy there is no gun culture like you, on the contrary, people see us almost as criminals only because we have passed visits, paid permits and bought our guns for shooting or more simply to go hunting.

I had found a similar thread but the thread was closed

Now I'll explain my problem:
I bought a marlin X7Vh .308 from a gentleman.
He has the ejection pin stuck in the down position (he told me right away when he handed me the gun)
Believing that it was easy to remove the pin underneath that blocks everything, I did not give weight to the fact.
But now I realized that the pin is bloody stuck.
I broke two 2mm diameter punches (the hole is 2.20mm) and 4 cobalt bits trying to reopen the hole with a drill press.
I tried to warm my head to make it dilate and then push with the pin, but nothing even like that.

Do you know of any other ways to reopen the hole, change the spring, pin and put the block back that doesn't move now?

I have also seen that the head can be replaced with that of the Remington 783, but unfortunately in Italy it seems extinct.

I would like to put photos, but I don't know if it is possible by regulation to put them
Thanks to all those who will be able to help me.

PS: Sorry if there are any errors I used google translate

 

[Blue68f100]

Welcome to THR.

There are some very knowledgeable gunsmith on this site. I'm sure some will respond.

Something to try. Soak the pin/bolt with Kroil penetrating oil. May take several days of soaking. If you have a ultra sonic cleaner, use it. This constant vibration will help the oil to penetrate. May add heat to the bolt to help the Kroil penetrate too. I've worked on a few stuck pins in the past that has taken near a week to get them to release. I'm not familar with that gun but is there a retaining pin that holds it in? If so remove it first. It should be unloaded, and will allow the Kroil to get to the back side.

Another good penetrating oil home made is acetone and ATF 50/50 mix works well. Use in a well ventilated area.

 

[Kp321]

I recently had that same rifle in with the same problem. I soaked the ejector pin with Kroil and tapped it with a small punch repeatedly to work the Kroil into the area. It took over a week of soaking and tapping every day until it finally started moving out enough to grab the end with a small pair of pliers and pull it out. I found two problems, the spring was collapsed and had no “push” and the ejector pin was bent slightly, binding it in the hole. I suspect a hot load had caused the ejector to be forced into the bolt head, the extractor was also missing.

 

[Teppa82]

Welcome to THR.

There are some very knowledgeable gunsmith on this site. I'm sure some will respond.

Something to try. Soak the pin/bolt with Kroil penetrating oil. May take several days of soaking. If you have a ultra sonic cleaner, use it. This constant vibration will help the oil to penetrate. May add heat to the bolt to help the Kroil penetrate too. I've worked on a few stuck pins in the past that has taken near a week to get them to release. I'm not familar with that gun but is there a retaining pin that holds it in? If so remove it first. It should be unloaded, and will allow the Kroil to get to the back side.

Another good penetrating oil home made is acetone and ATF 50/50 mix works well. Use in a well ventilated area.

the problem is that it is the locking pin that does not come out and therefore does not free the ejector ....

in Italy there is no kroil..

could I use WD40 or similar?

and are you telling me to put the piece in the ultrasonic washing machine to soak in the liquid and then let it go?


but can I put some photos in this forum?

 

[Blue68f100]

Do not use WD40 it will make it worst than it is.

Mix up some acetone/ATF and use it. Some say it's better than Kroil for penetrating.

US parts cleaner are small, not washing machine size. Some are used for cleaning jewelry.

Does the hole go all the way through so it can be tapped from both sides? Some times mfg use a tapered pin and will only come out 1 direction.

If there is NO Bluing on the bolt assembly you may try some Vapor-rust in the hole if you think rust may be causing the problem.

When you use heat keep it under 450-500F to prevent changing the tempering in the steel.

I don't think a drill press will give you enough rigidity, end mill would be much better. Are you using the short stubby starter punches? These only stick out about 1/4" so they are much more rigid.

I have a Sig 229 where extractor pin requires a press or a 2# hammer to get it to move. Stubby punch is all you want to get it started moving.

 

[Teppa82]

Do not use WD40 it will make it worst than it is.

Mix up some acetone/ATF and use it. Some say it's better than Kroil for penetrating.

US parts cleaner are small, not washing machine size. Some are used for cleaning jewelry.

Does the hole go all the way through so it can be tapped from both sides? Some times mfg use a tapered pin and will only come out 1 direction.

If there is NO Bluing on the bolt assembly you may try some Vapor-rust in the hole if you think rust may be causing the problem.

When you use heat keep it under 450-500F to prevent changing the tempering in the steel.

I don't think a drill press will give you enough rigidity, end mill would be much better. Are you using the short stubby starter punches? These only stick out about 1/4" so they are much more rigid.

I have a Sig 229 where extractor pin requires a press or a 2# hammer to get it to move. Stubby punch is all you want to get it started moving.

Sorry ATF is the red oil for the power steering?


As for the temperature to which I have already heated it .. I think I have exaggerated a lot since the head has turned red


I hope not to have damaged or irreparably weakened the piece

 

[Blue68f100]

If you turned the bolt red you probably removed all of its tempering, red indicates ~1600F. Which is hot enough to cause scalling too. Being that hot I'm surprised it did not release.

ATF =Automatic Transmission Fluid, some times used in power steering units.

 

[Teppa82]

Yes. I definitely ruined the bluing of the head .. but it wouldn't be a problem if it remained resitente.
I am surprised too ... At that temperature the pin had to come out.
Tomorrow or Friday I will try the acetone / ATF combination and ultrasonic washing machine.
Obviously in the open air given the volatility of acetone

 

[Blue68f100]

If you have a glass jar that it will fit in with a lid use it. Then just fill the US with water, set it in a let it run. The one I have holds like 1.5 gal of solution. I can drop complete handguns into it if I want.

 

[Teppa82]

If you have a glass jar that it will fit in with a lid use it. Then just fill the US with water, set it in a let it run. The one I have holds like 1.5 gal of solution. I can drop complete handguns into it if I want..

But do you think it's a big problem having warmed the head so hard?
Can I have problems or can it be dangerous to shoot whit it?

 

[Blue68f100]

Over heating the locking lugs are a big problem. They could shear off under pressure.

I would look to see if you ca buy another bolt assembly from Marlin. Hopefully Marlin's mfg is consistent enough not to effect the head spacing.

 

[Teppa82]

Over heating the locking lugs are a big problem. They could shear off under pressure.

I would look to see if you ca buy another bolt assembly from Marlin. Hopefully Marlin's mfg is consistent enough not to effect the head spacing.

Nothing can be found in Italy about Marlin.
I don't know what the situation is like from you
And I don't know if I can order to Italy directly in the USA and have weapon parts sent to me.
If it were possible I would do it immediately.
A friend saw a video showing that the shutter of the remington 783 fits in the marlin X7, and the head should also be interchangeable.
(I hope it's true)
At least I buy the one in Italy

 

[Teppa82]

Ok, this morning I proceeded to make the magic potion: 50/50 Acetone/ATF
Cause work I didn't have time to make him go around in the ultrasonic washing machine. Tomorrow afternoon when I get back from hunting I'll have him do half an hour, then other rounds from Monday to the bitter end.

thanks for now

 

[GooseGestapo]

You’ve definitely ruined the bolt head! Don’t even attempt to try to shoot it now!
Marlin is out of business, The X7 rifles have been discontinued for some time now.

However, Remington, when they bought out Marlin, wisely decided to use the Marlin bolt head pattern for the similar Model 783. However, you will need to have headspace checked after installation. Also, the pin you are talking about IS TAPERED! Meaning, it only goes in and out , not through. Must go out opposite the way it was pressed in.

I suggest you watch some of the YouTube videos on gunsmithing the Savage M110 which is the progenitor of the Marlin. (Very similar construction/desi.). Before you further destroy the rifle.

Heat treatments of the bolt heads are critical!!! Research the “blow ups” of the early U.S. 1903 Springfield rifles. Many had defective heat treatment of the receivers.

 

[natman]

But do you think it's a big problem having warmed the head so hard?
Can I have problems or can it be dangerous to shoot whit it?

Yes. If the bolt head was heated until it turned red, it is no longer safe to shoot. That much heat will change the hardness of the metal. Get a new one.

 

[Teppa82]

Yes. If the bolt head was heated until it turned red, it is no longer safe to shoot. That much heat will change the hardness of the metal. Get a new one.

I would do it very willingly..
The problem is that the marlin xs7 rifle is out of production, spare parts are not found or are found very badly.
And from the USA you cannot ship to Italy

 

[BBBBill]

If you want to make it shootable and are unable to purchace a Marlin XS7 (or Remington 783 if it will work) bolt head then your only viable solution is to carefully remove the bolt head and have a machinist duplicate it from properly heat treated material. 4140 or 4150 pre heat treated steel will work. It must be made to exact dimensions with all features intact. If there is a radius at the root of the bolt lugs that must be present in the new bolt head. Then test fire carefully with the gun solidly mounted to a bench and a remote means of pulling the trigger. Examine the bolt for damage or changes in dimensions after each round fired. After firing several rounds remove the bolt and have it examined for any cracks or deformation.

 

[natman]

I would do it very willingly..

Then you don't understand what is going on. When it was made the bolt was hardened to a certain level to make it strong enough to handle high pressure. When it was heated red hot, that hardness went away. It is no longer as strong as it should be.

The problem is that the marlin xs7 rifle is out of production, spare parts are not found or are found very badly.
And from the USA you cannot ship to Italy

I understand that getting Marlin parts is difficult in Italy. That does not change the fact that shooting a rifle where the bolt has lost its heat treatment is very dangerous.

 

[Teppa82]

Sì. Se la testa dell'otturatore è stata riscaldata fino a diventare rossa, non è più sicuro sparare. Tanto calore cambierà la durezza del metallo. Prendine uno nuovo.

I understand very well that it is dangerous to shoot with that heated head .. in fact I am looking for the new head all over the world
thanks very much

 

[natman]

I understand very well that it is dangerous to shoot with that heated head .. in fact I am looking for the new head all over the world
thanks very much

In bocca al lupo. Spero che vada bene.

 

[Teppa82]

YESSSSSSSSS!!!!!

I HAVE FIND ALL PIECES OF THE HEAD!!!!

And at a very low price