Bradshaw, I guess what they say is true; Great minds think alike.
I too did some homework and, also in large part due to Mr. Lapin, found and bought a Stevens Model 620 to convert to a HD shotgun. I posted some pics at the bottom of this post.
It started out with a 28" barrel with, I believe, a fulll choke. I never measured it because I knew it was going to be gone.
It now has an 18.75" barrel and is of course now a cylinder bore. Also added a brass bead. Why? It helps me point faster and I like the "look" too.
I will check the pattern and post pictures when I can get to the range which will be very soon as I can't wait to try it out.
And yes, I am enamoured of the simplicity of the takedown. It's faster to do it than explain how it's done!
I may shorten the stock 3 or 4 inches and add a slip on recoil pad. Not sure about this yet. Any suggestions anyone? Good idea? Bad idea?
As an aside, does anyone here know the difference between the 620 and the 620-A? Is it just in the trigger group parts?
Anyway, here are the pics:
Mick
I too did some homework and, also in large part due to Mr. Lapin, found and bought a Stevens Model 620 to convert to a HD shotgun. I posted some pics at the bottom of this post.
It started out with a 28" barrel with, I believe, a fulll choke. I never measured it because I knew it was going to be gone.
It now has an 18.75" barrel and is of course now a cylinder bore. Also added a brass bead. Why? It helps me point faster and I like the "look" too.
I will check the pattern and post pictures when I can get to the range which will be very soon as I can't wait to try it out.
And yes, I am enamoured of the simplicity of the takedown. It's faster to do it than explain how it's done!
I may shorten the stock 3 or 4 inches and add a slip on recoil pad. Not sure about this yet. Any suggestions anyone? Good idea? Bad idea?
As an aside, does anyone here know the difference between the 620 and the 620-A? Is it just in the trigger group parts?
Anyway, here are the pics:
Mick
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