Ok! Stupid Reloading Question; Lee Dies

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Grim Peeper

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Ok this IS my first rodeo and Im pretty clueless. I was starting out by using my carbide sizing die that also has a decapping function that removes the primer see pic. I used it a couple time and it was doing its job and then it stopped removing the primers and was just resizing that's it. I tried to loosen the bushing on the bottom that seems to hold the decapping pin in place. but it appears to be glued in place and wouldn't budge. How do you sneak the pin up a bit so it encounters the dead primer sooner?

jy.jpg
 
been there recently...

It's not so bad once you figure it out.

You hold the die with one wrench, and use a ratchet or another wrench on the collet that holds the decapping pin. ...on the die, hold at the two flat spots near the top. A 10" adjustable wrench is your friend here. I think the collet is 1/2 inch but you can figure that part out. A 6 inch adjustable wrench works up top. I keep adjustable just because I use them around the house, if I ever relocate my bench I will have dedicated wrenches that fit my dies.

Since it was depriming then quit I'm hoping for your sake it's pushed up through the collet rather than broken off and needing replaced. Look at the die, it should be just about flush with the top of the collet, not up 1/8 inch or so.

Once you get it straightened out, tighten it a bit more than factory tight. Not a lot more, a little more. You want it to push up if it needs to, but stay down to punch primers.
 
Screw the die into your press and use good wrenches - it'll come out. But if it's not tight enough the pin will slip through again.
 
it is very tight. I usually have to use 2 wrenches at about a 70 degree angle with the die on the floor and my weight on it. but then I'm pretty flabby.

Good news is that the die design where the collet that holds the pin in place did it's job and you didn't break your decapping pin. You might check your cases. It sounds like you got a berdan case in there somewhere.
 
also, I generally put push the top of the pin down flush with the top of the collet that you just loosened.
 
On the top of the die there is a collet nut. Lee uses a single rod and pin, that decapper pin slides up so push it back down to extend beyond the bottom of the die and tighten the collet nut. You likely will have to loosen the nut to slide the pin back down. Use good wrenches!

Ron
 
By the way...welcome to reloading if your new to the hobby.
Even though carbide is "lube free" it still helps to lube. Reduces effort by at least half.
 
Ok its still flush I think it just slipped a little. I tried using two adjustable wenches to loosen it and torked it pretty hard and it didn't give at all so I figured it would be tight enough to hole the pin in place. I guess ill give it another try. It looks glued lol that's why I asked.
 
Also do you guys clean your cases first or is it even necessary? I using the hand press I got for 60 buck and the carbide dies for 30 bucks
 
It's best to clean cases but not absolutely necessary. The bad thing about not cleaning is you get more crud going into the die which can and will get caught in the die and scratch cases. Functionally ok, aesthetically not as nice. Don't worry about cleaning though if your volumes are low enough your using the hand press.
 
Use a 3/4 and 1/2" wrench to tighten.

It is shown here in the video in case you ever stick a case in the die,

There is NO need to remove the collet nut on the top completely. Yes it is very tight that is why correct wrenches rather than adjustable work better.

http://leeprecision.com/help-videos.html
 
Ok I got it tight and now im popping primer well. Im using a socket and adjustable to tighten that collet. My brass is dirty though so for the next batch ill prob clean. Should I clean before or after removing the primers. I am definitely having fun once I get chugging with it.
 
The right way to loosen / tighten those decapping pin collets is to use two box wrenches of the correct sizes, other wise you'll have a terrible time trying.

I use Lee handgun dies for some of my handgun loading, but I prefer RCBS. I don't like that "O" ring Lee uses on the lock nuts, or that collet design on the decapping pin assembly.

GS
 
If you start picking up brass that you didn't shoot (free range brass), you should get in the habit of looking inside them with a small flashlight to check for rocks, dirt, bugs/spiders, and to make sure you have no Berdan primed brass. Berdan brass will have two very tiny flash holes instead of one large hole in the center.

Rocks and Berdan brass can break your decapping pin, and ruin your fun.
 
To clean or not clean before sizing is entirely up to you..

You have a carbide sizing die.
And nothing you can stick in it is going to scratch it.

Case cleaning for handgun cases is more for Looks Good then 'Oh Crap! I ruined the die!'

In fact, dirty case with carbon fouling on them size easier then squeaky clean cases washed in detergent in a case cleaner.

rc
 
If you don't have anything else to clean cases with an old bucket with hot soapy water (dawn .. whatever dishwashing soap you use works). Dump them in to soak. Swish them around every now and then. I used to leave them in for two or three days. Swish around some more after soaking, dump out sopay water, rinse with clean water then air dry outside (if it''s warm) or inside on an old bath towel. I did this for quite a while until I bought my tumbler. Works better than nothing, gets the grit out to protect your dies. Cost, cheap bucket $.99 at the dollar store , dishwashing soap is a couple bucks a bottle.

I bought Frankford tumbler from Midway, inexpensive as far as they go and my has ran 8 hours on weekend for about 2 years with no problems.
Walnut cleans better, corncob polishes better. Nice but not necessary.

PS: AS other said you die looks ok. You want to move the pin down and retighten the nut, but not so tight the pin won't slide up if something goes wrong.
Just tighten it a bit, try depriming a case, if it moves loosen the nut move it back down and make it a little tighter next time, repeat until it does not move.
(takes longe to say this than to do it)

If you do mess up the pin Lee will send you a new one. I just orderd a spare to have on hand when I placed an order from something else at Midway.
You can go to Lee's site and look at dies, parts, to get the part number. I think all the pistol decap pins might be the same, rifle dies have the expander on the pin so they are different.
I think I paid about $4 for one. Nice to have a spare on hand.

Be safe and enjoy.
 
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If you're trying to keep it cheap and simple a bucket with the soapy water along with a dollop of cheap white vinegar works wonders. I run about 1:6 vinegar to water and a dash of liquid laundry soap. Soak for about 20 minutes to a half hour with some stirring once or twice. If you have a bucket and a colander with the batch of brass in the colander lifting it out and stirring the brass so the wash water dumps out then re-fills when you lower it back in and stir it a bit aid in cleaning out the worst of the interior fouling.

The really slick setup is to use the same wash formula in an ultrasonic cleaner. On shallow handgun brass like .45ACP the insides come out looking almost like new. Long skinny cases like .38Spl and .357mag are still dark but it's a thin colour instead of the dark and powdery fouling.

And best of all the outsides look like new brass.

And yes, as suggested a very light application of some sort of case lube makes the press a lot smoother and easier to operate. So easy that you can feel differences in things working or going bad more easily.
 
Well I just resized and deprimered over 300 used 45acp casings with the lee hand loader and my arm is a little tired and Ill probably do this a stage a day and well see how it does I also bought the dies for 9mm but that for another day most of my brass is 45acp and 40sw from when I had my g23 which I no longer have I may buy another 40cal weapon a p226 or p94 or shield 40 soon as I have so much brass for 40. I also have a considerable amount of 38special and 7.62x39 as well because Ive been saving all my brass over the last 5 years (at least 40 pounds worth) from every range session and just starting to reload now so I have a lot of work ahead of me. The 7.62 Yugo surplus brass will likely never be reloaded but whatever I have a problem tossing it even though everyone is dent on the side from ejection of my saiga conversion. It seem from the discussion here that cleaning isn't that important so I will probably skip that for now. I know it is tough doing it with a hand press but I have been known to be a glutton for punishment. ;)
 
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I use a lee hand press too, it's slow going but takes up very little of my valuable space and got me started inexpensively quality of the finished product is outstanding too.
I also don't bother cleaning my brass as again, little room for the equipment.
I've been doing it this way for a few years and don't regret it at all. It'll still be useful doing load work up at the range after I get set up on a progressive in the (hopefully near) future.
The handpress is a over looked and useful tool.
 
Yes, I live in a condo and cant have a bench so this is my only option however I have been told by my uncle that reloads that doing it this way I will learn a lot and I can make quality ammo either way so for now it is what it is. Also once I make through this bulk of brass I have it wont seem so bad doing smaller quantities at a time as I only shoot 1 time per week and Ill already have the skill and components available. Im excited about it I always wanted to ability to load my 45 brass because of how expensive .45 ammo is currently and it probably will never go down again. Well see how it goes as of now I only have a couple hundred strait deprimered cases but it was pretty easy so far after I got that decapper pin thing sorted out. I really had to crank down on that nut to get it to stay put but after what I did tonight I think it will stay put.
 
Grim Peeper:
I live in a condo and cant have a bench so this is my only option

A buddy of mine used to live in a condo. He kept his Dillon mounted to a board in the closet. Every few months he would pull it out and clamp it down to the kitchen table. He would
dedicate a weekend to reloading, and crank out a bunch of rounds. After he loaded up what he wanted he just packed it all up, and back in the closet it went. I guess he was a closet reloader.

It kept his wife happy.
 
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