Precision Primer Seater

Not a lot of info out there on these but I like the looks of them. Been looking at them for a while. I have an extra station on my T7 that this would fit nicely in. After viewing a couple more videos tonight I ordered one tonight. Give it a review when I get it going.
I watched the video and it looked like you have to replace the shell holder on the ram with a pusher pad, which would interrupt any progressive action.
When you go to use this it looks like you are stuck in single stage mode.

1. Un-Screw the Main Body from 7/8 Conduit. Drop the Priming Pin of appropriate size from above. Hand tighten
and screw back the Main Body.
2. Remove one of the two bolts above the Top Plate. Loosen the other bolt until the Top Plate can rotate freely.
3. Place the appropriate Shuttle Slide with S/L engraving facing Upwards. The Main Body’s Guide Pin must go
through the oval hole on the Shuttle Slide.
4. Position the appropriate Shuttle Block on top of the Shuttle Slide. The Shuttle Slide should slide freely in the bot-
tom groove of the block, as shown in the photo.
5. Rotate the Top Plate to the side; a recess on the Top Plate will allow the installation of the priming shell holder.
Securely lock the two bolts on the Top Plate.
6. Connect the Shuttle Slide Spring to the hook located at the bottom of the Shuttle Slide.
7. Install and lock the PCPS onto your press, similar to a regular 7/8-14 reloading die. Aim to expose more of the
Micrometer below for easier adjustment.
8. Install the Anvil onto the ram rod of your press, following the same procedure as installing a shell holder.
 
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I watched the video and it looked like you have to replace the shell holder on the ram with a pusher pad, which would interrupt any progressive action.
When you go to use this it looks like you are stuck in single stage mode.

1. Un-Screw the Main Body from 7/8 Conduit. Drop the Priming Pin of appropriate size from above. Hand tighten
and screw back the Main Body.
2. Remove one of the two bolts above the Top Plate. Loosen the other bolt until the Top Plate can rotate freely.
3. Place the appropriate Shuttle Slide with S/L engraving facing Upwards. The Main Body’s Guide Pin must go
through the oval hole on the Shuttle Slide.
4. Position the appropriate Shuttle Block on top of the Shuttle Slide. The Shuttle Slide should slide freely in the bot-
tom groove of the block, as shown in the photo.
5. Rotate the Top Plate to the side; a recess on the Top Plate will allow the installation of the priming shell holder.
Securely lock the two bolts on the Top Plate.
6. Connect the Shuttle Slide Spring to the hook located at the bottom of the Shuttle Slide.
7. Install and lock the PCPS onto your press, similar to a regular 7/8-14 reloading die. Aim to expose more of the
Micrometer below for easier adjustment.
8. Install the Anvil onto the ram rod of your press, following the same procedure as installing a shell holder.Or just set it up
Or just dedicate an extra station on my T7. T7 doesn't care.
 
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Not a lot of info out there on these but I like the looks of them. Been looking at them for a while. I have an extra station on my T7 that this would fit nicely in. After viewing a couple more videos tonight I ordered one tonight. Give it a review when I get it going.
I look forward to reading your review, I believe there is accuracy to be found in proper primer seating.
 
I've never liked priming systems which mount to the top of presses. We need ~.25" of travel, but press rams travel ~3"... I also hate pick-up tubes - I KNOW they're common, but I hate them. If I have to touch every primer, I'm not really using an efficient system. I have a Bald Eagle Bench Seater which I fed with a modified Lee Safety Prime, and I adopted a Lee APP Deluxe (rebuilt from a Lee ACP, plus the F-Class John depth adjustment screw) last year which REALLY sped up my priming for rifle rounds. I really wouldn't want to wedge my priming system in between dies on top of a turret, and like I said, I don't see a lot of point in running 3" of ram travel for 1/4" of primer travel.

Lots of tools to do this particular task, consistent and proper seating is important, but these tools all do the same job, just mixing up the way they're fed or the shape of their support base.
 
why do you need an adjustable primer seater. Just seat them to the bottom of the pocket and everything will be fine.
That’s actually a good point. If you use an adjustable primer seater you’ll have to run a uniformer in every case and measure to cull any deep pockets.
Without the “feel” of touching bottom the dimensions on all pockets will need to be identical, as will the thickness of the case lip that positions the case in the shell holder.
It’s the distance from the primer to the bottom of the pocket that’s critical, not how far past the base the surface of the primer is inset.
 
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That’s actually a good point. If you use an adjustable primer seater you’ll have to run a uniformer in every case and measure to cull any deep pockets.
Without the “feel” of touching bottom the dimensions on all pockets will need to be identical.
It’s the distance from the primer to the bottom of the pocket that’s critical, not how far past the base the surface of the primer is inset.
Ooooh, primer pocket uniforming!
 
That’s actually a good point. If you use an adjustable primer seater you’ll have to run a uniformer in every case and measure to cull any deep pockets.
Without the “feel” of touching bottom the dimensions on all pockets will need to be identical.
It’s the distance from the primer to the bottom of the pocket that’s critical, not how far past the base the surface of the primer is inset.
That, and, isn’t it dependent on the case rim riding in the shell holder? So that point of contact would need to be consistent as well.
 
That, and, isn’t it dependent on the case rim riding in the shell holder? So that point of contact would need to be consistent as well.
Good point. Updated. So no more mixed headstamps.
Of course reloaders spending hundreds of dollars on a primer seater probably aren’t loading mixed headstamp batches in the first place.
 
With the adjustable hand priming tools I’ve used, what you are actually doing is changing where the handle stops in relationship to the tool body when the primer is fully seated plus a small crush. Uniformed pocket depth, case rim thickness all play a small part in optimum primer seating depth. I test a lot of dumb stuff including primer seating depths on paper targets and find a crush window that shoots well then put a witness mark on the tool.
 

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With the adjustable hand priming tools I’ve used, what you are actually doing is changing where the handle stops in relationship to the tool body when the primer is fully seated plus a small crush. Uniformed pocket depth, case rim thickness all play a small part in optimum primer seating depth.
It is the “primer is fully seated” that is being discussed.
If you correctly set an adjustable primer seater for one case, but the next case has a deeper pocket and a thinner rim then the second primer won’t be “fully” seated.
 
I've never liked priming systems which mount to the top of presses. We need ~.25" of travel, but press rams travel ~3"... I also hate pick-up tubes - I KNOW they're common, but I hate them. If I have to touch every primer, I'm not really using an efficient system. I have a Bald Eagle Bench Seater which I fed with a modified Lee Safety Prime, and I adopted a Lee APP Deluxe (rebuilt from a Lee ACP, plus the F-Class John depth adjustment screw) last year which REALLY sped up my priming for rifle rounds. I really wouldn't want to wedge my priming system in between dies on top of a turret, and like I said, I don't see a lot of point in running 3" of ram travel for 1/4" of primer travel.

Lots of tools to do this particular task, consistent and proper seating is important, but these tools all do the same job, just mixing up the way they're fed or the shape of their support base.
I'm running a Bald Eagle as well, and like how consistent it is. Too bad they don't make them anymore.

I've been looking at priming on an ACP that I picked up on the used market. Looks like I should start a new thread to discuss.
 
It is the “primer is fully seated” that is being discussed.
If you correctly set an adjustable primer seater for one case, but the next case has a deeper pocket and a thinner rim then the second primer won’t be “fully” seated.
Case rim does vary a slight amount however not enough to effect ignition and no serious reloader that’s concerned about primer seating uses mixed up or odd ball brass without some sort of quality control, testing you’ll likely find as I have a (crush window ) of several thousandth, nothing good happens until the primer is fully seated and nothing bad happens when it is fully seated.
by feel is the way most of the top competitors I know seat primers, seat to the bottom plus a good crush.
My Lapua 6 br brass has a pocket depth of .126 , my adjustable uniformer is set at .126 to just lightly clean the carbon out and maintain that depth.
 
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.... life after the failure of the USA primer manufacturers.

Not sure that is their fault.

That’s actually a good point. If you use an adjustable primer seater you’ll have to run a uniformer in every case and measure to cull any deep pockets.

Turns out you don't, all of my 1050's have an adjustable primer seat depth, pistol and rifle and I have never uniformed any pockets for use in them.
 
I've been looking at priming on an ACP that I picked up on the used market. Looks like I should start a new thread to discuss.

Buy the APP Deluxe conversion kit. The shuttle feeder is leaps and bounds better performing than the chute.

Failing that, call Lee now and buy a bunch of feed chutes, because they’re really easy to crush when the chute gets nearly empty and the 2nd primer in line fails to slide fully onto the seating anvil - it’s a terrible design, and you’ll end up deforming the chute mouth. Since they aren’t making them any more, you’ll want a lot of spare chutes on hand to survive the press into your future. Or better - buy the ACP-to-APP-Deluxe Conversion kit.
 
If you use an adjustable primer seater you’ll have to run a uniformer

Experimental data and collective experience shows we don’t inherently have to combine these tools. Rather, we can know that seating to 6thou-ish below flush yields better ignition than 3thou-ish below flush, and be happy adjusting our priming presses to seat 6thou-ish instead of 3thou-ish. A non-adjustable press user can’t have that control.

no more mixed headstamps.

This is another false paradigm - those of us running adjustable primer presses already do not shoot mixed headstamps. The differences in influences by metallurgy and internal case volume are far greater than the influence of variable primer depth in mixed brass. If you’re blasting away at nothing in particular, mixed brass can be fine, but that’s not the guy who is using the features of an adjustable priming press to improve their ammunition.
 
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