Putting a little more power in a $15.00 Daisy

Wonder how much air is lost through the abutment perimeter, how well do you think the seal works?
Any ideas on how to make sure it's sealed or how to seal it better?
Terry
 
Terry

I use a tiny bead or a thin "smear" of silicon seal on pretty much everything I can. Things come back apart if neccesary and it's pretty easy to clean off.
The highly compressed air will seek any and all escape routes - the only path we want it to follow is directly behind the BB!
The only difference between a tiny leak and a bigger one is Time (and FPS).

Cheers!
"Ratte"
 
Ratte said:
Cobalt - thanks, that last picture tells me all I need to know. (It's difficult to keep track of all the info and resources tucked away in this thread)!
Going to have to re-read the whole thing again!

Doing some more abutment mod experimentation work - no rest for the weary.

Cheers!
"Ratte"
Click to expand...
Okay, Shane's camping atm but he thinks it's 1/4" or thereabouts.
 
Easy enough to figure out IF you have one of the gun's with abutment in it .
Take a small piece of wire and bent an "L" on one end, thread it through the reciever end of the gun intill it comes out the barrel .
With the "L" bottomed out on the abutment mark the wire at the end of the barrel, remove the wire and insert it into the barrel from the muzzle with "L" end first and mark it at the barrel when it stops.
Remove the wire and measure the distance between he two marks, TaDa ! Thats how thick it is.
Hope this helps?
Terry
 
Terry

Excellent - what I was trying to figure out is when a shot tube is screwed in (both stock and with a rubber O-ring in the groove),
what the distance/volume is between the end of the shot tube and the piston (cocked and uncocked). Basically to calculate compression ratio.
I'm bored waiting for a Drill Press to arrive - then watch out - I'll be Dangerous!!

Check-SIX!
"Ratte"

Ps. - instructions for cheap Chicom Chrono

 
Wow !
Your instructions were in English, mine were in Chineeeeeesssssse !
You do know you can buy a milling table for a drill press..............just sayin.
Terry
 
Terry
I was looking at a small German model, but the bench top drill press I'm getting really isn't built for milling stresses. Maybe someday a hobby metal lathe.

Cheers!
"Ratte"
 
I've seen people with all the tools one could want that couldn't put a screw in a hole and drive it home.
I've also seen people who didn't have a razor knife do amazing work that you would think was machined or made in a factory, yet all done by hand.
It's not so much the tools it's the nut driving them.
Terry
 
Terry​

You got that right!!!

Cheers!
"Ratte"

Duct Tape ****** Zip Ties ****** WD-40 ******(All the other Tools are just for Show)!!!​
 
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If I may ask some questions about shooting ?
I hear alot about "match guns" I assume that means the gun is for participating in BB gun completions.
Does anyone know how far they shoot at these matches?
Also how far do you guy's usually shoot at home and at what distance do you expect your gun to hit the target on the money ?
Thanks Terry
 
Afore I forget, Shane says, "On the abutment washer my mic makes it .238" thick, OD on the lip .805", OD on the step down section .734, lip thickness at .072, reduced collar height at .159"."

BB guns often shoot at 5 or 10 meters. Field target airgun matches have a course that varies the distance to a target, but they're generally longer than BB guns. Shot using pellet guns. There are many other forms of competition, too.
 
OK So what's your answer to part "B" of the question, how far do you usually shoot BB's?
More or less 20,30,40,50 foot where do you sight you gun at?
Just trying to get an idea of what's a normal shooting distance .
Terry
 
I have targets hanging from branches around the back property. Closest are maybe 15 yards, farthest is about 70. I do most of my plinking at about 20 yards.

My longest shot with a BB gun to date is 73 yards at a hanging plastic mayo jar. Full disclosure, it was done with a modified model 1910, which is a pneumatic pumper, not a spring gun. Longest with a "regular" spring-powered Daisy is 71.5 yards with a modified camo model 1999.
 
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We've got parts !
Thanks Mark......... I didn't realize that the RR piston was so much bigger than the M95 piston.
Nothing like making it harder on myself than it needs to be, I got a six cylinder and everyone else has a big block !

So 60' is a good distance for BB's I usually shoot at about half that but I do shoot my pellet guns at 60-75', guess I'll have to give it a try?
Terry
 
Unless the gun is modified, the BBs will start to drop a lot at ranges farther than about 15 yards. But if it's got the power, shots at 20-25 yards are quite doable- no having to lob the BBs into the target like a WW1 mortar!
 
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Shane - "You da Man" - Thanks!

Cobalt & Terry - I figured out what caused our Sear end deflections and subsequent problems. What confused me was yours was downward, mine was up - why? The answer (I believe) is that your Model 95 uses the 90` Sear, mine uses the newer angled Sear. As the gun is cocked, the sliding friction between the tip of the cocking lever and the Sear plate incrementally forces the end out of position until it hits something. (Also true of side to side displacement, except that the Spring Anchor keeps that under control). This is more pronounced as spring rates go up - and no lube! Terry's roller tip solution solves the problem because rolling friction is less than sliding friction. That is also why the little roller wheel was put on the "Cowboy" piston assembly (and is going on mine!). I hope this makes sense.

Ps. - I came up with a way to re-inforce a standard piston assembly with a couple of tack welds, a 3/8" x 5~5 1/2" stiff aluminum tube, epoxy and removing material between the rails
down to about where Cobalt's wooden dowl started - if anybody is looking for something to do, go for it - then we'll see what breaks next! "It's always something!"

Cheers!
"Ratte"
 
So they have the roller on the piston it's self?
Interesting.....................got pictures? you know we ALL love pictures!:)
I've already done the beef up of the piston assy. I just put a 1/2" long alum. slug inside it at the half way point and glued it in place.:D
I'm done trying to make more power though, I'm thinking 450's-460's is good enough for lizzards and plinking.
I'm working on getting it more accurate and I think I may have found a major problem with the higher power guns in this respect.:confused:
Just need more research and find a good fix.;)
Terry
 
Terry

Yes, the roller is at the back behind the Sear plate - a simple bushed wheel that rides along the top of the receiver.
I believe we are at a plateau as far as FPS goes - the properly sealed and massaged muzzle loader is the limit as far as the components we're using.
I can almost match it with my repeater (I'm very proud of that efficiency). I have ideas on how to eak out more performance - the goal being a reliable, comfortable shooting 500 FPS repeater
that would fulfill Cobalt's original premiss - that the average "Schmuck" could duplicate in his little workshop.

"The Quest Continues"

Cheers!
"Ratte"
 

Attachments

  • Cowboy Plunger.pdf
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Thats a good idea, will it fit in your gun?
I am thinking that after a certain point the fps are going to get hard to come by and you may find that the power plant will start to distort the sheet metal of the gun. (as your already seeing)
To borrow one of colbalts terms "feels like it's eating itself up", hopefully I am wrong and you reach your goal.
I'm cheering for ya !
On the other hand if your getting into the 450's with a repeater and a stock RR spring it would seem to me you could just put one of colbalt's springs in it and be where you want to be ?
I'm on the edge of my seat .............again.:eek:
Terry
 
I'm guessing it's for preventing excess friction between the plunger tube and receiver, mainly occurring during cocking. And no worries- there are a lot of pages here!
 
- and keeping the plunger tube in alignment with the receiver/compression chamber on the forward stroke.

Cheers!
"Ratte"
 
Thanks. Recently took the 499 apart to address a grinding noise, noticed the two lines where it was contacting the receiver. Put a dab of grease in there and changed the plunger head.

Like the idea of a roller.
 
Coincidentally, the plunger tube I used for that power plant build was from a 499 - it also had evidence of flexing and the center point of the plunger legs was bent in 0.025"causing rubbing with the spring key. (New Red Ryder spring w/ 1/2" of pre-load).
Will have to take a close look at the Red Ryder tube I replaced it with. Will replace that with a reinforced one when I get a "Round Tuit" (check your local hardware store).

It's always something!

Cheers!
"Ratte"
 
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