Question on benchs that some have made.

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Rule3

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Just a general question, not looking for plans or ideas. I have a bench and a workbench in the garage. Both made with a double box frame and plywood tops.

My question was how did you allow for the press bolts. If there is a frame piece going around under the plywood top (usually double 3/4") then how did you bolt the press through that and say a 2x4 frame piece?

Lag bolts work but a bolt with a washer and nut is still stronger. Did you just use really long bolts to go through ??

Did you even use a frame piece under the edge of the top piece??
 
I too used box tubing for a frame and cross supports.

IMAG1238.jpg

I drilled and tapped for universal base plates for most of them except the spot where I just swap out different SD presses.

IMAG1256.jpg
 
You do not want to use lag bolts. The cycling of the press over time will work them use.

Use through bolts with nuts and washers.

When you attach your wood stiffener frame to your bench, use both screws and adhesives. Flexing at any wood joint is not your friend.
 
Rule3 said:
Did you just use really long bolts to go through ??
I used long bolts and nylon locking nut with flat washers.
Did you even use a frame piece under the edge of the top piece??
Yes. I built the bench frame with 2x4s and used another 2x4 right under the plywood/OSB to stiffen the bench top.
 
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I too used box tubing for a frame and cross supports.

IMAG1238.jpg

I drilled and tapped for universal base plates for most of them except the spot where I just swap out different SD presses.

IMAG1256.jpg

Dang, you need to get yourself some nicer equipment and more of it!:D
Sure is a nice set up!!
 
I had to use thick wood screws on the first bench I made, filled the holes with construction adhesive-screws never came loose, EVER. Had to use a breaker bar to loosen them. A 3/8 X 5" lag bolt is not coming loose as easy as some think.
 
Like jmorris, I use square steel tubing for my presses. Difference is mine are free standing. The pix below is the one for my Pro2000 while it was under constructions.

jmorris' bench is really nice though.
 

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Threaded rod and nylon insert lock nuts for my LCT. Needed to go through a 2x4 the long way just like you mention and I couldn't find 7"-8" bolts.
 
the rear hole on the Lee CTP is about 4 inches back from the front edge

will that clear the double 2x4's ?

that's the one that will resist most of the pulling lever force from the press arm
 
A 1/4-20(I think) lug bolt with multiple washers and a nut. How you bolt the press on doesn't need to be a huge engineering project.
"...couldn't find 7"-8" bolts..." Threaded rod.
1024 x 608 is too big.
 
I move my press now and then. So I prefer bolts and T or tophat nuts to make things easier.

If you're not planning on moving the press on a regular basis you'd be AMAZED at how well 1/4" or 5/16" bolts work in wood if you drill the holes 1/16 undersize for the 1/4" and 3/32" undersize for 5/16 or 3/8" bolts. Don't tap the threading. Just run the bolts into the holes so the threaded sections are fully into the plywood or the underlying 2x4 framing. When your arms recover you'll realize that there's nothing to worry about.

The problem is that they are just as hard to get out again. Which is why I prefer to use the T (tophat) nuts and drill oversize holes to fit the tophat sleeves full length.

If your top is only one layer of thicker plywood you'll be amazed at how flexible it can be. If it's two layers of glued and screwed plywood then it won't need much or any bracing. But if one layer I'd add a length of solid framing under the overhanging front lip which is glued and screwed to the main front frame. That'll avoid the lip flexing under the lever loads.
 
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