Ramrod stuck in barrell!

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scotjute

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I've got a new Austin & Halleck Mt. Rifle, and fitted a cleaning cloth around jag and pushed down with a slow twist to clean out barrell prior to initial shooting.
The jag wouldn't come out once it was all the way down. I screwed a wooden hand ball into the end of the ramrod sticking out, pulled, and the ramrod (wooden) broke. At this point I assume I'll either remove nipple, stuff gunpowder down hole, and then reassemble and fire, or else use the CO2 contraption to blow ramrod out.
Anybody had this problem? If so, how did you solve it?
Thanks.
 
If you have a good seal you might be able to pop it out with a cap. I sometimes have to put a bit of powder behind the nipple and shoot it out. Don't use much powder because you probably won't be able to seat the jag when shooting it out. If you have access to the CO2 it would probably be best.
 
I'd use the compressed air gizmo first. It's worked good for me for removing a ball. Can you grab any part of the ramrod with vice grips? Put the gun in a vice and pull.
 
or you can remove the breech plug and shove it on through if the others don't pan out. Careful using powder to shoot it out - you don't want to have it blow up cause of the jammed rod.
 
Man you must have that ramrod stuck.I'm not familar with the A&H Mt Rifle.If you can pull the breech plug , push it out that way I would suggest trying that. The compressed CO2 would be another option. I doubt if you could get enough powder in the nipple to blow it out.If there is a tight enough seal possible the small amount of powder might do it.I've never got one stuck that badly.Good luck.

Ruger Redhawk
 
I had that happen to me once. I had enough wood sticking out that I put it in a vice (the remains of the ramrod) and pulled. It came out. Unfortunately, the jag and fitting remained behind. I was new to things and hadn't bothered to drill and pin the end fitting to prevent that. I ended up removing the breech plug and pushing it (actually hammering) it out. I had put on too thick a cleaning patch. You can be sure when it goes in hard, it is going to come out even harder. Lesson learned - pin the end and go to a composite material rod for cleaning. Use the wood ramrod only for loading.
Good luck. That would sure be frustrating if you were on a hunting trip of a lifetime. That is why I always have a spare rifle along for any hunting trips more than a hour from home.
 
I wouldn't try to shoot it out. Saturate the powder to deactivate it. Have someone remove the breech plug and extract the dampened (and deactivated) powder from the breech as well as the ball. Insert a brass rod and tap the broken ramrod out.

Some shooters soak their ramrods for a year before they use it. Let me ask around as I forgot what it's soaked in. :eek: Hickory is the best and get straight grain hickory.
 
I've read that putting powder under a nipple and shooting it off is a real bad idea. The powder is too close to the nipple, and the flash hole may be small which builds up pressure and blows out the nipple. Never had it happen...don't want to

I suspect when you started pulling, the patch pulled backward and wadded up.

If the ramrod is too short to grab, I'd try the above.
 
Safety First!

NO, NO, NO, don't even consider shooting that stuck ramrod out with powder! It might work. Then you'd advocate it to others. It might make you a brand new Austin & Halleck Mt. Piece of Junk, the shrapnel from which might well maim or kill you! We always ram our bullets tight onto the powder--why? To prevent there being a space between the powder and the bullet in which pressure can build up, making Old Betsy into a bomb. Whatever powder you trickle into the bbl through the nipple hole will by definition not be rammed tight behind your stuck cleaning jag. ergo, you'd be creating a bomb. Furthermore, your stuck jag is in there tighter than any patched ball could possibly be, so pressures will be even higher.

Holy H. Smoke! Don't do it! Don't even think loudly about it.

I gotta agree with the previous suggestions: Try the CO2 method, and then if/when that fails unscrew the breech plug. If you have to hire a gunsmith to do that, pay him and smile. It beats a trip to the ER any way you look at it. If your jag simply cannot be removed, well, buy yourself a new bbl, and think (a) this is a tuition payment to the University of Hard Knox, and (b) it still beats a trip to the ER.

I understand that unusable BP bbls make admirable horseshoes stakes.
 
I have used Kroil (other penetrating oils would work, too) poured in the barrel and allowed to soak for a day or so. On a flinter, I used a ball inflation needle on the air hose inserted through the touch hole and throttled in air until the ball moved. Now, it moved out right quickly- my careful air throttling technique was a bit rusty- and the .735 ball (Brown Bess) went out the shop door (open), hit the hitch on the one ton, angled rearward and down under the minivan and killed one of the sleeping cats. At least I think it was sleeping before it got killed and had not just died of natural causes and simply served as a convenient backstop.

Another time on a percussion gun, I rigged a piece of fuel line from the nipple to the air gun nozzle, cinched down tight with a couple of worm drive clamps. Same 24 hour oil soak, same careful air throttling technique, but this time I put a blanket over the muzzle to catch the .530 ball. Everything worked like a charm. I picked up the blanket to retrieve the ball for the lead bucket. Hmmm... Hole in blanket. Unfold blanket further. Ball falls on floor. I refold 3 and a half point Hudson Bay blanket. Rose colored, antique, 3 and a half point Hudson Bay blanket...

You really should reduce compressor pressure setting below 175 psi. Other than that, feel free to use my proven techniques.
 
I've shot a jag out with 3-4 grs FFFF. Funny story and it worked out fine, but I woulnd't do it again. The jag came out with a "fffpppu" in a lazy arc and bounced off the bottom of the cardboard target backing 15yds away. The gunsmith couldn't get the breachplug out and it's actually what he said to try.

I would try air/co2. I've also heard of folks pumping a ball out with grease.

Ty
 
Hydraulic pressure

Good idea! Hydraulic pressure would be a slick way to go. Gas compresses and high pressure could release suddenly, sending the obstruction flying. Hydraulic pressure doesn't compress so when things come loose, they simply ooze out. I wonder if you could find a grease zert with the same threads as the nipple? Then you could pump it out with a grease gun. You'd also have a well oiled barrel to clean up :D .
 
Nifty idea OldNamVet :cool: If hydraulics can be used to operate heavy equipment, why not drive a stuck ramrod from the barrel?

Smokemaker - Thanks! :) Your memory works where mine has failed. :uhoh:
 
Alright I'm convinced, will be going with the CO2 method first. May take a 2-3 weeks before I can get the equipement. Will post the results.
The grease method sounds intriuging. Are there grease zert threads that will match up to those of the nipple.
 
Removing stuck cleaning patch?

Water. Pour a couple of table spoons down the barrel, and pull your patch right out. Can't count the number of times I have had to do this during a shoot. Loves me some tight cleaning patches.
 
angled rearward and down under the minivan and killed one of the sleeping cats.
Ya know, I bet that sorta thing takes some 'splainin' to the rest of the family. And I won't even mention that nice blanket. "Dang moths, making such a big hole."

Bart Noir
 
Been there. Seen it many times before too.

What always seems to work? Water and Murphy's oil soap down the barrel.

Same thing you use to get your wedding ring off when the wife's away ;) Works the same way.
 
I once removed a broken ramrod thusly:
I machined a brass plug slightly less than bore diameter with a short twist drill soldered into the business end.
This device was used in a short tee handle and turned by hand to drill out the ramrod.
It took awhile but no damage was done either to me or the rifle.
My belief is that ramrod breakage is minimized by using a short starter for loading and a brass rod for cleaning chores.
Respectfully, Zeke
 
So, any updates? I'd suggest trying soapy water in the bore to saturate/lube the mess on out of there. Then CO2 to expell the patch,jag,rod.
 
1911 Guy,
As we speak, there are at least 10 hickory ramrod blanks absorbing "coal oil" in my shop.
As for how long it's maybe 10 years.
My buds and I really stick to the short starter idea and ramrod breakage is next to nothing.
My pet deer rifle is a built from kit Thompson Hawkin with which I have killed 15 deer.
I'm still using the origional hickory ramrod that came with the kit.
For range shooting or cleaning, I like a brass rod and for the occasional stuck ball- bullet problem I use the said brass rod with a tee handle, the working end a large wood screw adapted to the same brass tee handled rod.
I shoot only black powder and clean the bore after 3 shots as a practice.
I don't mean to sound like a preacher but using my ideas, I don't break ramrods.
Respectfully, Zeke
 
Advanced technology

At the range and for cleaning, I normally use a brass rod. It takes apart and lives in my range box (aka, "junk kit"). For field use I use the rod that came under the bbl. My .50 is a Traditions Fox River Fifty, a cheap model. The very first time I tried using the issue wooden rod from below the bbl, I broke said rod--fortunately not with a stuck patch down the bore. (I said it was a cheap gun--had a cheap dowel for a rod.) So I loaded the gun and hunted, using my buddy's rod.

When I got home I ordered a fiberglass rod from Dixie Gun Works. Cut it to length and epoxied a brass jag on 1 end. It is a dull brown, and looks almost correct beneath the bbl of my rifle.

Have had no further breakage problems.
 
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