Redding 3BR vs Model 3, advice needed

[Alex G]

Good morning THR friends,

Looking to pick up a Redding powder measure to replace my existing Lee perfect powder measure unit. I’ve used the Lee for a while now, and while it’s fine for dropping a rough charge and then trickling up to the exact charge, I don’t trust it enough to throw charges directly. (See attached data below. Charges were thrown of IMR 4227 (very fine stick powder that meters very well), IMR 4350 (very coarse stick powder) and CFE Pistol (flake pistol powder that leaked badly during the test).

That being said, I have one gentleman offering me a Redding Model 3 in good condition for $100, and another guy offering me a 3BR for $150 also in good condition. Is the 3BR substantially improved over the model 3, or is it just hype? If anyone can chime in to their experience using either one of these, that would be fantastic. Thanks all!

 

[Jim Watson]

I have a Model 3. It is OK for rifle loads, good enough for 4895 direct to .30-06 for Centerfire Plinking.
The "pistol chamber" is worthless.
No experience with the BR.

 

[Alex G]

It is OK for rifle loads, good enough for 4895 direct to .30-06 for Centerfire Plinking.

^Thats what I want to do with the IMR 4227-reduced recoil plinking loads for my 06 as well.

The "pistol chamber" is worthless.

Why so? What’s your experience with it if you don’t mind?

 

[Jim Watson]

The rifle insert is a micrometer head moving a "piston" the full diameter of the hole in the drum. No nooks or crannies and good measuring as long as the load is large enough to require backing out the piston enough to give a good depth of powder in the cavity.

The "pistol chamber" is an insert fitting into the drum with a quite small "piston," a good idea, but...
For proper operation, the insert should fit perfectly flush with the drum, but mine doesn't, it comes up short, leaving a shallow space between drum and piston that picks up fine powder unevenly. It will also smear granules and bind rotation.
I fiddled with it a lot, holding the insert as far in as possible while tightening the thumbscrew. Still a gap.
I took it to my neighbor the gunsmith who turned it over and redrilled the hole for the thumbscrew a bit farther back. That brought the insert forward but the radius on the end was not a perfect match and there was still a gap. Plus the inconvenience of reading the adjustment upside down.

Maybe the BR is better.

Your picture shows the pistol insert, the catalog shows both.
https://www.redding-reloading.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&Itemid=15&id=40:match-grade-model-3br-powder-measure

Hornady uses the same design BUT you can get a dedicated pistol drum.
https://www.hornady.com/reloading/p...es-and-accessories/lock-n-load-powder-measure

 

[Alex G]

Good to know. I’ve currently got a Hornady with the case activated linkage as my main powder measure on my XL-750. The drum style is nice, except the Hornady’s drum is not coated on the sides and rusts easily if not oiled. The Redding appears to fix that, as well as being chrome plated if my memory is correct.

 

[Herman B]

No 3 experience, just the 3BR. I have both the universal and pistol chambers. Difference: 3BR has a baffle, additional set screw, diff handle, diff chambers.

I find the baffle is important. Charge consistency with both chambers has been excellent with a slew of handgun powders and the few rifle powders I use (IMR 4350, IMR 7828, RL 15). For rifle I trickle to top-off/weigh all - no range fodder, destined for distant elk. Not necessary to trickle for plinking rounds.

...and a reminder of the importance of operator consistency. Fill hopper, tap-tap to settle, consistent pulling/pause. If any micrometer adjustments then 4-5 cycles before verifying charge.

 

[Alex G]

Difference: 3BR has a baffle, additional set screw, diff handle, diff chambers.

I find the baffle is important. Charge consistency with both chambers has been excellent with a slew of handgun powders and the few rifle powders I use (IMR 4350, IMR 7828, RL 15).

^Good to know! 4350 is the hardest one to meter that I use, so it’s good to know that it’s working well!

and a reminder of the importance of operator consistency. Fill hopper, tap-tap to settle, consistent pulling/pause. If any micrometer adjustments then 4-5 cycles before verifying charge.

Absolutely to all of the above.

 

[cfullgraf]

Good to know. I’ve currently got a Hornady with the case activated linkage as my main powder measure on my XL-750. The drum style is nice, except the Hornady’s drum is not coated on the sides and rusts easily if not oiled. The Redding appears to fix that, as well as being chrome plated if my memory is correct.

The Redding powder measures can be modified to work with the Hornady case activated powder measure die.

Here is a link to thread with some information.

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/redding-10-x-on-hornady-l-n-l.649826/#post-8040143

I modified a Redding 10-X but the process is similar for the Model 3 and Model 3BR. The main difference between them is the lever that operates the drum. The 10-X uses a straight lever while the 3BR needs a lever with a dog leg in it. I’m not sure which shape lever the Model 3 would use.

 

[joneb]

I'd go with the Model 3br it is more versatile than the model #3