Redding match bullet seater die

[ForneyRider]

These are my first set of micrometer dies. I've used the Lee dies, along with RCBS and other Redding.

I set the die body depth and tightened the lock ring. I then set the depth for the top, but I wanted to zero the micrometer to the 2.20in or 2.25in depth. I put the wrench in through the top but cannot get it to turn without turning the micrometer bell. Am I reading the instructions wrong or is the top seized up?

2.20in would be great as to be able to shoot a variety of bullets without much fuss. But 2.25 would cover all but the smallest of bullets.

I am starting to use the 52gr Sierra BTHP. I get bullet scratches on rifling for the 69gr SMK with 2.28in.

 

[lykoris]

you need to maintain a 'firm hold' over the micrometer as you turn the allen key to zero it.

 

[lykoris]

actually it is the other way around, you put the allen key into the top and hold on it/lock it while you turn the micrometer to zero.

It's been a while since I've last zeroed my comp dies as I'm happy where they are set

 

[MCMXI]

lykoris, you were right the first time!

ForneyRider, here's the deal. First, check that the zero screw isn't protruding from the bottom of the micrometer body (inside micrometer housing) and loosen it with an allen wrench (through the top) ... it may be tight the first time. Seat your bullet to the desired depth and leave the round in the press. Now BACK OFF the micrometer to zero on the dial AND zero on the shaft (if desired). Now screw in the zero screw (round in press, ram all the way up) slowly until you just feel the seater contact the ogive. You may need to play with the setting a little until it's perfect.

 

[ForneyRider]

It's pretty tight, to where the supplied wrench is pretty bent, so I gave up. I may put some penetrating oil on it and let it sit.

I got it to work. It is very, very tight. But it moved and I can see where the ball end is further up the stem now.

Much Thanks!

 

[cdet69]

once you find the setting you want put a piece of lead shot between the set screw and die and you will not have to gorrilla tighten it to make it stay put. a neat trick a lady at rcbs told me.

 

[MCMXI]

once you find the setting you want put a piece of lead shot between the set screw and die and you will not have to gorrilla tighten it to make it stay put. a neat trick a lady at rcbs told me.

The OP is not asking about the lock ring on the die but that's still a good tip for anyone that doesn't have Redding dies (set screw pushes on threaded plug that engages threads on die body) or doesn't use Hornday Sure-Loc die locking rings.

ForneyRider, Redding dies are shipped with a fairly thick corrosion resistant oil on them so the first thing I do when I buy a new set is dissemble them, clean them and oil them with a much lighter oil such as CLP. The zero screw works well once you free it up.

 

[ForneyRider]

Yep, I cleaned off the lube that came with them, as per the instructions, and interestingly enough, put CLP on them. So I think that is an excellent suggestion.

I use Forster/Lyman rings for my Lee stuff. I did not like the o-ring for rifle, they are okay for plinking pistol ammo. The Redding rings are okay, but I would think the set screw would tear up the threads as opposed to the clamping force style of the Forster/Lyman and Hornady.

The "zero" is easier to adjust after working it some.

After playing with these dies, it will be easy to experiment with the OAL. Also using different bullets should be pretty good as well.

Much thanks for all the info.

 

[MCMXI]

The Redding rings are okay, but I would think the set screw would tear up the threads as opposed to the clamping force style of the Forster/Lyman and Hornady.

Actually, the Redding set screw doesn't engage the threads directly. There's a threaded plug at the bottom of the hole which engages the threads on the body of the die. The set screw pushes on the the threaded plug. The result is that the threads don't get damaged at all. However, it's often necessary to tap the lock ring with a hammer in order to release the threaded plug from the die threads. That's one of the reasons why I switched all of my lock rings over to Sure-Locs from Hornady. I have a Hornady wrench too (cost $7 or something) which works well.

Some CLP on the threads of the zero screw will help a lot .... assuming you can back it out far enough.

 

[lykoris]

great tip for the redding rings(have a ridiculous amount of them), although like switched everything over to the hornady loc tite rings which I think are excellent - better than the forster rings on the co-ax and stay put on a progressive.

for me 'zeroing' it was locking it at a set depth for a given batch of brass which gives 0 on the meter.

per redding instructions insert a 3/32" hex(American for Allen key I believe)......counterclockwise adjustment will decrease the bullet seating depth(increasing overall cartridge length) while clockwise adjustment will seat the bullet deeper without changing the micrometer setting.

holding the hex key 'firmly'(it requires a bit of force to keep in place) in one position while twisting the micrometer around to 0 kept my setting.

so I think my first suggestion was wrong and the 2nd was right

Granted I've them all set and I'm reluctant to go tinkering as I've everything set per calibre per die

 

[lykoris]

1858 is right as I have had a play around and I'm not using them the way they should be used. I could explain what I mean but think I would just complicate the issue.

 

[MCMXI]

lykoris, you accurately described Redding's instructions and their method works just fine with one assumption ... that the zero screw is protruding sufficiently far out of the bottom of the micrometer when you initially set up the bullet seating depth to where you want it. In the first photo, the zero screw isn't protruding far enough out of the bottom of the micrometer i.e. it's not affecting bullet seating depth. In this case, bullet seating depth would be controlled by the bottom of the micrometer (shown at tip of arrow). In the second photo, the zero screw is far enough out to where it IS controlling bullet seating depth. In this case, once you have the desired bullet seating depth, you could hold the zero screw in place and rotate the micrometer back to zero (assuming enough of the screw is protruding). I hope this gives a better understanding of how the zero feature works on Redding dies. In my experience, many Redding seating dies have the zero screw up inside the micrometer when they ship, so unless you check it and "fix" it prior to seating, it can lead to lots of frustration.

I will add that IF the zero screw is protruding enough and you have the desired seating depth established, Redding's method (described by lykoris above) is the best way to zero the micrometer since it doesn't rely on any feel or finesse. Simply hold the zero screw in place so that it doesn't move and then rotate the micrometer back to zero.

 

[lykoris]

thanks for the explanation 1858

I was only ever using +/- 10 thousandths of an inch so leaving it at 0 worked for me given I knew the depth at 0.

I will go back and zero them to be directly in line with the entire meter scale.

Thanks again (photos help a lot)