Richards, Field Trekker arrived!

[kmw1954]

Hopefully the first three photos show the gap I will need to fill around the trigger guard and bottom metal. Fourth photo shows how much material I still need to remove from the bottom of the stock around the Magazine. Last picture is it all assembled and I have done some finish sanding on it too.

 

[kmw1954]

Another shot of the bottom metal that hopefully shows the work still needing to be done. A shot of the rear pillar and how I tried to reinforce it some with the pillar and a build-up of epoxy and then two more of it assembled, hard to see the finish sanding that has been done so far. More to go!

 

[kmw1954]

Not sure if any are still interested but I was able to take this with to work yesterday and actually test fire it on the 200yd range. Did a quick bore sight at 75yds and moved the scope over about 16 clicks and found I should have left it alone as it was 8" left. had the bore sight at about 3" high and ended being about 11" low at 200 yds. but it did place a nice 3 shot group.

 

[Blue68f100]

How are you coming on the outside contour and finish?

 

[kmw1954]

Have a Pachmayr D725B in Red recoil pad coming from MidSouth along with some Tru Oil. But now that I have that irresistible urge out of my system I can start earnestly sanding and shaping this stock.

 

[Skylerbone]

It’s looking good! My Richards came with incorrect inletting despite my measurements matching theirs and required serious removal of wood both in and out. Didn’t turn out perfect but it was cheap and better looking than the plywood alternatives.

As I was nearing the finish line on it I received an email flyer from CDNN advertising my rifles OEM plastic stock for $35 and I darn near bit.

 

[BreechFace]

Looks good @kmw1954, its always a patience game working with wood. In the past I've been impatient with a project and end up removing too much material in places, no matter how much coaxing I couldn't convince the tree to regrow in that area.

How'd you do on the finger grooves and palm swell matching your hand? Looks like a comfortable shooter.

 

[kmw1954]

Skylerbone which model did you buy? What action? Where did you find the most off?
For me the worst was the mismatch between the bottom metal holes, action screw holes in the stock and the receiver. The stocks holes for the bottom metal and receiver were off by about 1/16", forcing the reason for enlarging the holes and then adding pillars.

BreechFace I have learned to go slow and check often. unlike metal work were more can be added back. The finger grooves and palm swell I went extra slowly. The palm swell still feels a bit high towards the top but as you say I am afraid to remove too much. For the finger grooves I did actually use my fingers with sandpaper to shape them to my hand and they have turned out pretty slick.

If I could do it again I would ask them if they could shorten up the reach between the centerline of the trigger and the leading edge of the grip. I have short fingers to match my short stature.

 

[Skylerbone]

Mine was a Frontier Sporter, action was a Win 70 blind mag. Worst was bottom metal fitting but it did actually line up. The problem was too much wood around the action screws and if I recall correctly too much wood around the trigger guard. Also didn’t know at the time that the lines of the cheek piece were meant to be kept sharp so I sanded them with a nice radius.

 

[kmw1954]

Still it looks as though you did a beautiful job. I will be proud if mine turns out as well!

 

[Skylerbone]

I’m crossing my fingers that yours turns out better!

 

[kmw1954]

Thank you for the well wishes!

Oder for the Tru Oil and recoil pad id supposed to be delivered tomorrow. I feel I should fit the pad first but I am not certain I can resist not putting that 1st coat on it.

 

[kmw1954]

Just finished applying the first 2 coats of Tru Oil and it's hanging to dry. Still looking for a sander to fit the new recoil pad.

 

[Blue68f100]

Unless you have the jig to protect the stock I would be careful using a power sander. The last one I fitted was just a but plate, did it by hand with a file. Taped the stock with several layers of tape to let me know when I was getting close.

 

[kmw1954]

Blue, thanks you for that heads-up. I have never done this before so have no idea as to how easy this stuff cuts. What did you use as a file? how easy did it cut? Thought was to rough cut it down and then finish with a palm sander.

 

[Blue68f100]

Mine only had the butt plate no rubber involved. I used a bench belt sander to rough it in. Then started with a #2 file, till I got to my 3 later of tape on the stock. I then moved to a #4 file. Tape the end of the file so you will not scratch the stock. I used tape on the end of the file to ride on the stock to keep every thing square. Once I had it down I moved to sand paper backed with steel, 1200 grit to polish out the plastic.

 

[kmw1954]

So here is where it is today after 3 applications of reduced Tru Oil with Mineral spirits and wet sanded with 220 paper.

 

[kmw1954]

Completely Bummed!

This afternoon I was trying to get some pictures of this finished rifle and it accidentally got knocked off the table. The nice wood stock is now Firewood! Best I can tell the scope was not damaged but w/o shooting it I can't tell for sure. Sadly also I was ready to try shooting it next week.

What started as a great day has just been flushed.

 

[Skylerbone]

Sorry to hear. Maybe an opportunity for stock repair? @GunnyUSMC can turn matchsticks into masterpieces, perhaps he’d drop in here and have a look if you have a pic.

 

[Blue68f100]

Completely Bummed!

This afternoon I was trying to get some pictures of this finished rifle and it accidentally got knocked off the table. The nice wood stock is now Firewood! Best I can tell the scope was not damaged but w/o shooting it I can't tell for sure. Sadly also I was ready to try shooting it next week.

What started as a great day has just been flushed.

Sorry to hear that. I would say it can be repaired if needed. GunnyUSMC is the master of stock repairs.

 

[kmw1954]

Yes I have seen some of his handiwork. Not so sure I am up to that or have the skills and tools.

 

[GunnyUSMC]

Yes I have seen some of his handiwork. Not so sure I am up to that or have the skills and tools.

The truth is, stock repairs are really not that hard. You just need a plan and take it in steps. And it does help to know a few tricks.
Post some pics of the stock and I’ll see if I can help.

 

[kmw1954]

I can do that.
Almost ready to start over.

 

[kmw1954]

Gunny, I hope these suite your needs. Breaks my heart every time I look at it.

 

[GunnyUSMC]

The break is in a tough sport but it is repairable.
First I would remove the bedding at the tang and the rear action screw. This will all you to flex the stock a little easier to line it back up and work fiberglass resin into the crack.
Once the bedding is removed and you’re able to get the crack to close up you will be ready to apply epoxy. Do not use a fast setting epoxy. Use Acraglas or Devcon 2 Ton clear with 30 minute set time.
What you are doing is stabilizing the stock so that you can reinforce the damaged area.
Apply wax to the outside surface to keep any epoxy overflow from sticking. Work the epoxy into the crack and then clamp up tight. Using strips of wood covered with wax paper between the stock and clamps with help distribute force and not mar the surface of the stock.
The next part is going to be the hardest part. You will need to remove wood from the inside of the stock, wher the crack is. You will need to remove as much as you can and then replace it with epoxy and fiberglass cloth or mesh. This will reinforce the area and make it stronger then before.
You will need to pick up a brass screw with wood threads. This screw needs to go across the area between the magazine well and the rear action screw. You will need to cut the screw so that it fits into the stock. Use epoxy to bed the area with the screw. If you add fiberglass flox it will make the resin in the bedding area much stronger. If you don’t have any flox, I have some I can send you.
Now you should be at the point where bedding the action is all that is needed. Use epoxy with flox added ant this will help to reinforce the repair.
Now doesn’t that sound easy?
Break down into steps.
#1 remove bedding
#2 fit the crack so that it lines up and closes
#3 get clamps ready, wax stock.
#4 epoxy the crack and clamp
#5 remove wood from inside where the crack is
#6 epoxy in fiberglass cloth or mesh
#7 cut threaded Rod from screw and epoxy in place
#8 bed the rear of the action
Take your time, ask questions as you work, I’ll answer them for you. And post pics of the work.