Crosshair
Member
Well I got my Ruger PC carbine and stripped it down, wanting to check out the Tungsten weight that some have theorized will have multiple versions for converting calibers.
The holes have the following dimensions, they are different sizes on the top vs the bottom:
10 holes
0.105" wide (0.0525" radius)
0.280" deep
Volume per hole, 0.00242 Cubic inches
0.0242 Cubic inches
14 holes
0.095" Wide (0.0475" radius)
0.225" deep
Volume per hole, 0.00159 Cubic inches
0.02226 Cubic inches
Total 0.04646 Cubic Inches worth of holes in the bolt weight
Total weight that could be added to the bolt weight, assuming 11.13 ounces per cubic inch = 0.52 ounces.
To me, that does not seem like a lot of weight that can be added, considering that weight weighs a good pound or so already. (I find that I do not have a scale that can weight the bolt components accurately. Oops.)
The Tungsten weight is clearly cast, these holes might be there for casting/manufacturing reasons. Or perhaps it is for reducing the mass of the weight, no way to know for sure without asking Ruger.
The 9mm Luger, 40 S&W, and 45 Auto all produce around 350-500 ft⋅lbf of energy. A 40 S&W and 45 Auto may not need a different bolt weight, given that this gun is rated for +P.
A 45 Auto cartridge will TECHNICALLY fit the action of the Ruger. I can see how someone could rig it up to feed 45 Auto. In practice, with proper clearance for the ejector and other working bits, the action probably will not fit a 45 auto. This is just fine. As much as people talk about "one lower with multiple uppers", pretty much nobody actually does this unless you have a SBR or FA lower or live in a place where the term "pre-ban lower" is a coherent statement. Everyone just buys another lower receiver. Why bother increasing length, weight, and cost to make the action long enough to take 45 Auto when most don't care about that feature?
Given the modest cost of these carbines, $500, if someone wants multiple calibers it will be easy to just buy a 40 S&W version when it comes out and not bother with swapping parts. You would want a complete bolt along with a barrel if you were going to convert. You do not want to be swapping bolt heads all the time on this thing. It is actually relatively easy to do with just a flathead screwdriver, but the parts you are working with are not very large. Any caliber swaps will be done indoors at home.
Hope people will find this information useful and I await your thoughts.
The holes have the following dimensions, they are different sizes on the top vs the bottom:
10 holes
0.105" wide (0.0525" radius)
0.280" deep
Volume per hole, 0.00242 Cubic inches
0.0242 Cubic inches
14 holes
0.095" Wide (0.0475" radius)
0.225" deep
Volume per hole, 0.00159 Cubic inches
0.02226 Cubic inches
Total 0.04646 Cubic Inches worth of holes in the bolt weight
Total weight that could be added to the bolt weight, assuming 11.13 ounces per cubic inch = 0.52 ounces.
To me, that does not seem like a lot of weight that can be added, considering that weight weighs a good pound or so already. (I find that I do not have a scale that can weight the bolt components accurately. Oops.)
The Tungsten weight is clearly cast, these holes might be there for casting/manufacturing reasons. Or perhaps it is for reducing the mass of the weight, no way to know for sure without asking Ruger.
The 9mm Luger, 40 S&W, and 45 Auto all produce around 350-500 ft⋅lbf of energy. A 40 S&W and 45 Auto may not need a different bolt weight, given that this gun is rated for +P.
A 45 Auto cartridge will TECHNICALLY fit the action of the Ruger. I can see how someone could rig it up to feed 45 Auto. In practice, with proper clearance for the ejector and other working bits, the action probably will not fit a 45 auto. This is just fine. As much as people talk about "one lower with multiple uppers", pretty much nobody actually does this unless you have a SBR or FA lower or live in a place where the term "pre-ban lower" is a coherent statement. Everyone just buys another lower receiver. Why bother increasing length, weight, and cost to make the action long enough to take 45 Auto when most don't care about that feature?
Given the modest cost of these carbines, $500, if someone wants multiple calibers it will be easy to just buy a 40 S&W version when it comes out and not bother with swapping parts. You would want a complete bolt along with a barrel if you were going to convert. You do not want to be swapping bolt heads all the time on this thing. It is actually relatively easy to do with just a flathead screwdriver, but the parts you are working with are not very large. Any caliber swaps will be done indoors at home.
Hope people will find this information useful and I await your thoughts.