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Savage Model 110 E question

Discussion in 'Rifle Country' started by cottonpicker, Jan 11, 2019.

  1. cottonpicker

    cottonpicker Member

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    I have a Savage Model 110 E 243 Win. bought new in the early sixties. From what I am reading there was a Series J and K for this model. Can anyone tell me what is the difference, and how can I tell which series I have. Any help would be appreciated.
     
  2. D.B. Cooper

    D.B. Cooper Member

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    On my 110F, also in 243, the bolt is marked 110F in a very light engraving on the underside. You won't be able to see it without taking the bolt out.

    For practical purposes, I don't think it matters much. It seems like the more important differentiation is the "flat back vs round back receiver" and the pre and post accu-trigger. That's what matters for buying scope mounts/bases etc. I'm not sure, but I believe the newer Savage bolt guns are dramatically different from our guns.
     
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  3. saiga308

    saiga308 Member

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    trucker long hauling everywhere LOL
    P1041035.jpg
     
  4. saiga308

    saiga308 Member

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    trucker long hauling everywhere LOL
    looks like the 110 G
    had a checker stock and a chrome bolt l3_rifles_savage_rifle_model_110__270_243987.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2019
  5. saiga308

    saiga308 Member

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    trucker long hauling everywhere LOL
    the g and the k model
    were a upgrade
     
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  6. saiga308

    saiga308 Member

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    trucker long hauling everywhere LOL
    more info
     
  7. D.B. Cooper

    D.B. Cooper Member

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    Those photos remind me to say: if you still have the original scope, don't lose it. Those early 110s are all long action guns and they require long tube scopes to mount properly and still have some room to adjust your eye relief. Problem is, no one makes long tube scopes anymore. So when you put a new scope on the rifle, it sits in one place only and if that doesn't fit your cheek position with regard to eye relief, to bad, so sad, suck it up buttercup. Because the only resolution is a picatinny base, and that's going ti partly obscure the ejection/loading port and make it harder to load the rifle.
     
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  8. stillquietvoice

    stillquietvoice Member

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    Not necessarily I put Leopold rifleman bases on my 111. Front base is a 2 position base so scope Cam be mounted further back and not block ejection port.
    Before you buy scope check it's measurements eye piece to turret and turret to objective bell. More length is better.
     
  9. stillquietvoice

    stillquietvoice Member

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    I'm not sure what letter prefix it was that changed but older model 110 had open sights. The 110 Gxp models didn't have them. Purchased mine mid 90s.
     
  10. D.B. Cooper

    D.B. Cooper Member

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    111 is the operative word here. We're discussing the older 110s, which were all long actiong guns. The 111s are, I believe a short action gun.

    FOr example, my gun is a 243 (308 case) but the bolt pulls open beyond the length of a 30-06.
     
  11. stillquietvoice

    stillquietvoice Member

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    The m 10 and m 11 are short action the 110 and 111 are long the 110 had wood stocks and 111 were synthetic.
    My 243 was a 111 manufactured before savage made a short action.
     
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  12. cottonpicker

    cottonpicker Member

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    Savage Model 110E .243 Win, This is a pic of the early sixties rifle. I'm thinking series J & K must have been later modifications but not sure. IMG_1425.JPG
     
  13. mustanger98

    mustanger98 Member

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    The Model 11/111G I'm familiar with came with hardwood stocks... some nicer than others. Before they went to the center feed silliness, they had polymer open sights... functional, but not really ideal.
     
  14. D.B. Cooper

    D.B. Cooper Member

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    Yeah I've pretty much been down that road. I haven't found a single scope available for sale (new/retail) that will fit my rifle and still have any adjustment remaining. The bell is always jammed against the forward edge of the forward mount, and the rear edge of the read mount is right up against power adjustment. I have to crane my neck and head forward to get a clear sight picture. Super-duper pita. My only options, that I can see anyway, are picatinny or sell the gun. But I've already had multiple discussions here about it.
     
  15. stillquietvoice

    stillquietvoice Member

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    Put a bucaster 2 4-12 x 40 on my 111 with 2 position leup rifleman front base had enough clearance and was able to pull optic back far enough for ethnic to work. Not the greatest glass but clear enough to see 223 holes in paper at 200 yds. I bought both 3-9 x 40 and the 4-12 at the same time but returned the 3-9 because it didn't have enough length to mount.
    The only other thing I can think of is extended rings.
     
  16. rbernie
    • Contributing Member

    rbernie Member

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    All Savage 110-series bolt guns were labeled ‘110’ before the bankruptcy and the redesign that created the true short action, at which point the double digits became the short action and the triple digits denoted a long action.
     
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  17. mustanger98

    mustanger98 Member

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    Regarding posts 14/15, I had to get Weavers with the 1" extended front ring. That was on a short action. Once I got that figured out... :thumbup: Before that, I was only able to shoot that one because it had the open sights. If I were dealing with a long action, without the long-tube scope, I'd be up against the same problems y'all are describing.

    Model 110/111 with a flat bridge looks to me like it needs a Lyman #57WJS. Add a hooded ramp front and a Monte Carlo stock... classic lines. :D
     
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