several questions about .357 magnum revolvers

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I need some further help here..

Is the GP series Ruger stronger than the Security Six? I've seen (another forum) where, for magnum loads and experimental loads, almost all of the Ammo manufacturers use Rugers to test them.. Just curious...

When it comes to a Korth, I will buy 15-20 S&W, Colt and Ruger models before I spend $12,000.00 on a revolver... I'm perfectly happy with what I've got and don't need to spend that much money on a "hand made" gun.. What can be worth THAT much more than sending your $600.00 revolver out for a $1500.00 custom full house job? Maybe I just don't get it.. Does the Korth look THAT nice in a tube top?:confused:
 
rswartsell-
Have you got a larger copy of that? That picture is about as cool as the other side of the pillow!! I want that for my screensaver!!!:D

I do see the precision involved there, and the mechanical side of it is truly superior, but $12000.00?
 
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RonBernert,

I got it from the Korth USA website. You can copy it to your hard drive and then try to enlarge it. It just now occurs to me that posting it here without attribution might have been a copyright violation. An unintentional one I assure you. I suppose since I am not trying to profit in this manner that it's pretty benign?

BTW close examination of the cylinder gap leads one to believe it is almost non-existant.

P.S. As I stated before, ridiculously overpriced. Someone will always attempt the extreme and I suppose there are enough obscenely wealthy people to keep some efforts afloat.
 
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One feature of the Ruger design that leads to a well deserved reputation for strength is the elimination of the need for a frame "side plate" that Colt and Smith and Wesson revolvers use for accessing the lockwork. The Security and Speed Sixes were the first to have this feature. The relatively massive size of frame components of the GP100 is partly due to the fact that Ruger uses cast steel frames as opposed to the S&W and Colt forged steel frames. While Rugers' casting production methods were somewhat revolutionary and copied around the world, it is generally thought that forged steel is stronger than cast and the beefier dimensions are at least partially to make up for this.

Because the "Six" revolvers and the GP100 both share the side plate free frame, without firsthand knowledge of direct strength comparisons I would assume they would be comparable as to frame strength.

Offseting the cylinder rotation notches from the thin part of the cylinder wall near the outside extreme of the chamber contributes to a stronger cylinder. This offset is also to be found on the seven shot S&W 686+, but not the six shot standard 686. So oddly enough the GP100 cylinder and the 7 shot Smith would tend to be stronger than the 686 standard or Colt cylinders (everything else being equal). I do not know offhand if the Ruger "Sixes" have offset cylinder rotation notches. It would be easy to find out and I would believe that cylinder chamber strength is of more immediate concern than frame strength.

I own a 6" 686+ and shoot relatively high pressure rounds as a matter of course and I don't feel there is any significant lack of strength as compared to the Rugers. My Colt Trooper Mk III made before the advent of the GP100 but in the time of the Ruger "Sixes" was reputedly the strongest .357 available at the time. It weighs like it too. I also have no fear for its strength under constant full house loads.
 
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RippinSVT thanks for the analogy info. Everyone else has been putting up great information in general but I was still wondering about the question you just answered for me :).
 
As others have mentioned, the original .357 was the N-Frame S&W Registered Magnum, which evolved as follows:

Registered Magnum
Non-Registered Magnum (just before WWII)
Post war Transitional model N Frame .357 (can't remember the exact term, but these are the most rare and valuable of all S&W .357s that I know of)
Pre-Model 27
Model 27
Model 627
Model 27 Classic

I probably left a few out, and got one or two points out of order, but I believe that is close.

I'd love to own a 4 or 5 screw Model 27 one day (earlier guns are simply out of my budget). But for now, it is hard to beat it's mechanically identical, more utilitarian brother, the Model 28 Highway Patrolman. Picked up this 4" 28-2 a month ago for $425. Heck, that's not much more than a used Ruger GP100, not that I've got anything against the GP. I've since swapped the butt ugly rubbers for Eagle Classic stocks:


DSC06617.jpg


DSC06624.jpg
 
Check into a used Dan Wesson 15-2 or 715-2. They have the interchangeable barrel system. Barrels are available from Dan Wesson and can be swapped in minutes. One gun, many uses. They are very strong, accurate revolvers. I have four and won't part with any of them!
 
I own a 6" 686+ and shoot relatively high pressure rounds as a matter of course and I don't feel there is any significant lack of strength as compared to the Rugers.
Click to expand...

In terms of balance, quality, finish, etc., the 6" 686+ may be one of the most perfect revolvers ever made. For many years I was firing it SA, but lately I'm just pulling through DA and getting the same accuracy. I would not want to be on the other side of it.
 
"What are they puttin in the water these days ????
And I thought I was Kwazy."

a fool, a crazy, and a woobie war... who woulda' ever thunk it ??
what is this... a gun forum ???
(shucks, every woobie war deserves a few "neeners")

PS
I love 66s best of all... but I wear a Colt (insert smiley here)
yo, go figure
 
taurus 357 any comparison? I am new to the revolver world and thought the taurus looked nice do they compare in function?
 
taurus 357 any comparison?
Click to expand...

Yes and no.

Many will tell you how they suck or how they are great.

Both are probably right
I have owned 3
One was a POS and broke repeatedly
The next was titanium and I hated it but no quality issues
The next was a snubby that was a very nice gun

So I am 2 out of 3

While not of the quality of an old smith or colt, they have their fans and they do offer value.

I do not own, nor plan on owning another Taurus. If I were looking at new guns I would consider buying one.

BTW, expect VERY strong opinions about Taurus, both positive and negative
 
4" 686 if it's going to do duty as a nightstand gun and occasional carry piece. 6" of the same if it's to be a target gun.

Reloading will open a whole bunch of shooting for you. I don't understand the "shoot 38's in it" mentality. If you're gonna own a 357 and reload, why not buy a gun that can handle a steady diet.

686.
 
I've got a Ruger Blackhawk, S&W 19-2 (my CCW), and 2 686's a 4" -6 and a 6" -3. I think your best bet as a first 357 would be a 686, or it's blued brother the 586. My -3 has a trigger as smooth as my dad's Python is as tough as my Blackhawk and can easily handle any handload I make.
Reguardless of what your first 357 is...it won't be the last especially if you're reloading. I've only been reloading a short time and I've had a blast trying out different types of 38 & 357 loads.
 
IMO, for the 357 magnum, the defining revolver is the N frame Smith and Wesson. For perhaps thirty years, you could only get the .357 mag in that large frame Smith. Don't know when Colt Python came out but it doesn't really count as a full time .357 revolver due to its delicate nature, nor does the K frame S&W count, for the same reason.

The Ruger Security Speed-Sixes really were modern designs that improved upon the weaknesses of the S&W or Colt designs, but IMO have no personality and character, just like the GP100. I have both and while I like my SS and GP100, I love my Smith L-frames. I have stopped buying guns so will probably never own an N frame unless I trade for it.
 
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