shopping for a conceal carry handgun

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jason41987 i see very little difference between cocking a hammer, or dropping a safety on the draw.. its another action you have to perform either way before the handgun is able to fire,
Safeties on semiautomatic pistols are designed to be operated while properly gripping the handgun............you cannot maintain a proper grip and thumb cock at the same time. It's a process sooooooo wrought with problems that JMB included a half cock notch because thumb cocking increases the likelihood of your thumb slipping.

Again, you should seek out expert instruction on using modern semiautomatic handguns before trying to reinvent the wheel.






the revolvers im used to are single actions,
A semiautomatic ain't a SAA. Trying to operate it as one will undoubtably lead to problems that could get you or loved ones killed.






so im quite used to, and quite comfortable with cocking a hammer on the draw much more than i am with disengaging a safety and with that safety its just another mechanical function that can fail but in many cases, still has to be relied upon..
Oh good Lord.
Please point us to your source of all these malfunctioning 1911 safeties. :scrutiny:
 
I don't know if you made a choice but the "hammer down" on a 1911 comment makes me think you need more training. Once you get over the irrational fears almost all of us get when first carrying, you'll be able to find a gun that suits you well. I don't mean to be disrespectful or rude, that's just what I took away from the post. Provided I'm wrong, here's my advice:

I would Stay away from the Markov, they may be cheap but I don't know about the prices. I see these things going for $300+ all over the place. Not to mention the ammo for most of them is no better than a .380

If you have revolver experience and you want a simple, safe gun, get a Kahr CM9. It's in your budget and certainly better than a lot of what's out there. Or, stick with a revolver.
 
cocking the hammer on the draw smoothly, reliably, and quickly is just a matter of practice, i can have a hammer cocked and my thumb back on the grip before the process of drawing and aiming the pistol is complete... i really dont see why some people have such a big issue with this, and ive done this on 1911s as well when i lived in other states.. granted, they were USGI type 1911s with a hammer that makes it easier, and i notice a lot of newer ones use smaller, more rounded hammers, that might make a difference
 
To get back to the original question....
I really like the PO1 but for concealed carry you'll need some different grips. The factory grips are "sticky" and get caught on clothing when concealed, in my experience anyway. The gun has performed flawlessly for me. I would like to mention the Kahrs again. I have a CW9 with the longer grip frame and it conceals very well. It is also a great shooter. Very accurate with an excellent trigger.
 
doogle, im looking to avoid polymers though, im not a fan of the feel when a hand gets sweaty or the polymer gets wet.. but i agree with what you said about rubber grips, i personally dont like them either.. so i want something i can put wood grips onto.. CZ is one of those.. but is there any difference between the CZ-75 compact and the P-01 besides the rail?
 
i know the standard cz-75 compact has a steel frame and manual safety without a decocker, but im referring to the p01 vs the PCR... and to me it just seems like the rail is the only difference.. id like to know more about internal parts compatibility between the standard CZ75s and the P01s
 
ive come up with a list of three pistols to try...

the CZ-75 compact (i actually might prefer the extra weight, keeping the weight lower and in my hand than on top, and im used to revolvers that weigh a lot more anyway, so the weight doesnt bother me

the CZ P01.. it does weigh less, and i might prefer that for this reason, but also has a rail and is gaining in popularity incredibly fast

and lastly im interested in the stoeger cougar, beretta moved the tools to make the 8000 cougar to turkey, so still the same gun, and theyve made some modifications, like adding a light rail and costs about $200 less
 
what sort of price could i expect for a base model sig P226 or P229?.. also, i notice you can get .22lr versions of these for about $500 and later convert them to the caliber of choice.. perhaps i could consider this option
 
Take a look at my thread on the PM9, it may be one to consider.
 
jason41987 said:
aah.. actually looked at the overall width of a 1911.. even a double stack 9mm is more compact.. the ruger SR9C is slimmer than a 1911 and can hold 17 rounds, so clearly double stack.. so i should be focusing more on the overall width (of course).. but one other reason i was considering a 1911, is the possibility of 10mm so i could use for outdoor defense as well, in case of bears

Overall width measurements are deceptive. On a 1911, the overall width is measured at the widest point, which is usually either from the widest part of one grip panel to the other, or from the side of the manual safety to the side of the grip panel on the opposite side. The majority of the gun is substantially thinner than this. On a double-stack semiauto, the majority of the gun is at or just slightly thinner than the given overall width.

Put simply, a Glock 19 is 1.18" wide essentially everywhere. A 1911 with an ambidextrous manual safety may be 1.4" wide... but only at the safety, with most of the rest of the gun coming in at about .9-1". Revolvers are similar- the widest part is the cylinder, which may be 1.4-1.5" wide, but the rest of the gun is about .7".

EDIT: On a plain-jane Sig 226 or 229, I would expect to pay $700-900 here, depending on how good your dealer is. I am not at all sure that the .22 LR versions are convertable, at least, at reasonable cost.
 
what sort of price could i expect for a base model sig P226 or P229?.. also, i notice you can get .22lr versions of these for about $500 and later convert them to the caliber of choice.. perhaps i could consider this option
A new base model 226 or 229 will be about $900. They're the same price. With the 229s using that crappy giant extractor, I'd get a P226. The big extractors have not been faring well.
 
I carry one of 3 guns depending on what I am required to wear. At work, I pocket carry a S&W 340 w/ a couple of speed loaders in the other pocket. I prefer belt carry, but not having to keep on my suit coat all day, so the pocket is where it stays during work. For church, I carry a sig 2022 under a suit coat in a high-noon holster. My most common EDC is a sig 226. It rides in a high-noon as well, whenever I am wearing jeans or khakis, which is most of the time, under an untucked shirt.

That said, were I looking for a single gun for every situation, it would be a Glock 19.
 
Please keep the Bersa's in mind, and Beretta...
There is new option its a gun due in August called the Beretta Pico its supposed to be a 380 w/ 32 cal change out.
Oh and don't forget Taurus
Like... 410/45 Taurus Judge
And also the Taurus 780
 
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To the OP:

Is there any full size pistol that works well for you? If so, just CC a subcompact variant of that.
 
well, i dont want a 380 or a 32.. and 9x18 is no better... so im going to limit the caliber to 9x19mm or higher.. i dont want a polymer handgun, so eliminate that, i want a rail, so im going to eliminate cz-75s, not including the P01.. sig has proven they could sell the 226 for $500-$600 and NOT $900 simply by offering the convertible 22lr models for that price... theyre too proud of their name and i dont want to spend $900 on a $600 pistol, id rather just buy a CZ and get.. bersa thunder pro and the stoeger cougar are two inexpensive models im considering, and of course, the 1911

for the 1911, i thought about getting one of those 1911 parts kits less barrel, frame, and slide, and build my own on a caspian recon frame.. but i cant find the parts kits anymore, so id have to buy a philippine 1911, either rock island armory or american tactical imports unless someone else can recommend a US made 1911 for $600 or less?.. and apparently theres a compact version of the beretta 92fs

so my list so far

CZ P01
Stoeger Cougar
1911
Bersa Thunder Pro
Beretta 92FS Compact

among this list, im sure ill find something i want
 
Lol if you decide to get the SIG, you will understand the $800/900 new price tag. Used but well maintained SIGs are a good value.
 
im actually leaning the heaviest towards the stoeger cougar.. great value, no big loss if it gets scratched, or beat up, so i can feel comfortable using it outdoors, its reliable, and has more aftermarket than some of the other options ive been looking at.. but first im going to do some searching online for the closest gunshop of substance to check them out personally.. where im at now is a sporting goods stores that sell some guns, but mostly geared towards hunting
 
let me give some more information.. i want a handgun that can primarily be used outdoors.. something i can still conceal when in town, but will be reliable, durable, and something i wouldnt be afraid to get a little dirty, this is why i dont want to spend a lot for something like a sig.. that would be like for example, buying a new corvette and then taking it offroad

so.. of the philippine 1911s, the stoeger cougar, and the bersa thunder pro.. what is the most "utilitarian" option?
 
i want a handgun that can primarily be used outdoors.. something i can still conceal when in town, but will be reliable, durable, and something i wouldnt be afraid to get a little dirty, this is why i dont want to spend a lot for something like a sig.. that would be like for example, buying a new corvette and then taking it offroad

Call me crazy, but 99% of the people buying a gun with that criteria usually walk out of their LGS with a .... GLOCK.

:D
 
well, one of the main reason im avoiding glocks and SR9s and a lot of the new polymer stuff is not just the feel of the plastic when it gets wet.. but i really just prefer the look of blued or parkerized metal and wooden grips.. new guns certainly have a more modern look but im just not a big fan of it.. and i also notice a lot of such guns being dropped from production from a lot of companies... ruger for example doesnt make any metal framed automatics anymore, beretta has been trying to replace the M9/92FS with the Px4, and if ever achieved would either seriously diminish or stop production on the M9/92FS, or more likely send production to stoeger... the metal and wood guns seem to be dying out
 
I am with you on preferring a solid feel. That is why I carry a Mk 25 sig226 whenever I am wearing clothes that can balance the weight and conceal it. When I wear a suit, some of my suit pants don't allow a wide enough belt for the heavy gun, so I carry the 2022, and am thankful for the lighter plastic frame. It is still a bit bulky, but has the same controls and feel as the 226, so training has some continuity, and the lighter weight makes a huge difference in how it carries.

I guess my advice would be to buy something hefty you really enjoy, get a really quality holster and belt, and then settle for a few different guns when you cannot carry full sized.

It is pricy to carry full sized, as quality leather is not cheap. The high-noon open top pancake holsters I prefer run two bills or so. the heavier the gun, the greater the need for quality leather. Start with it, because i could have bought the high-noons twice over with all the money I threw away on cheap uncomfortable crap.
 
im not too worried about leather holsters.. i can work my own leather.. maybe deer hunt this fall and use a piece of deer leather for a quality, fitted holster.. i dunno, just an idea, but outdoors ill probably open-carry.. seems legal here.. heck, if its that hot out i might open carry in town too..

i live in a smaller town, about 1,500 people, and spend most my time outdoors and in lakes.. so an open-carry option isnt out of the question and could be quite a viable option for 90% of my carry... so, a 4 inch barreled pistol would be perfect for that... concealable enough in town, but more comfortable, more accurate, more of a workhorse outdoors
 
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