Short introduction to knife sharpening

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The Polished Edge
It's worth noting that an edge can be taken to the "next level" of sharpness, that being a polished edge.
+1 on that! I bought a Messermeister kitchen knife a couple years ago
that has the polished edge. We use it practically every day and have
never sharpened it. I run it across a steel maybe once a week, and it
is just about as sharp today as it was when we bought it, 2 years ago.
Fantastic knife.

Walter
 
I'm pretty intrigued with the DiamondBlades around now...wish more members would buy and review. Anyone got links to reviews?
 
Heh JV, to me, even multi-bevels is taking it a bit far. I'm oldschool in my blade honing techniques. If a waterstone or pocket Arkansas isn't good enough, I don't do it.

I have used a Lansky system on occaision, usually when a blade is damaged to where a 4k is useless on it. I originally got it for free (it was a thank you from a vendor for dealing with an extended mis-ship issue)....it's a fine sharpening kit, and I reccomend them to most honing novices, but the system seems more like work to me...too much fidgeting with it. Thus why I love my stones.
 
I've long tested the sharpness of my blades by wiping hair off my left forearm. This past weekend found me at the waterstone and strop again with my 2 edc blades, a Leek composite D2, and my hand forged fixed blade in 5160.

It'd been about 2 months since the last work on them. Both hold edges pretty well, though the D2 in the leek tends to be non-razor pretty quickly, it never deteriorates after that... Sharp but not scary sharp for long. THe large carbide structure of D2 is responsible for this behavior. The 5160 blade holds razor status longer, but dulls more thoroughly than the D2 does in prolonged use. Strange thing :)

I apply (by hand) a convex apple-seed type edge on all my knives. Angle varies from about 15-18 degrees to achieve this. I stoned then stropped with my rouged strop, each knife. The D2 blade took more time, but not doubly so. The edges are well polished when complete (though again, D2's carbide structure doesn't allow as fine a polish on the Leek's edge)

I'd never tried the bent hair test before. So after wiping a couple bald patches on my arm, I plucked a hair from my head. I was pretty happy when I was able to split it just like in the photos. Weird to feel the edge skate along slightly, then grab and slice that hair.... You CAN feel it happen! I was able to split one hair for almost half an inch. That was COOL!

Thanks for sharing!

J
 
If not done with skill and precision the end result is often a blade that has lost its mmmm...symmetry (?? ) = bevels that should be straight have become rounded. A blade like this will not cut wood well, even though it might seem sharp in tests.

Perhaps I am not understanding you correctly.

Are you stating a convex edge will not cut wood well?

All my go to woods blades are flat ground with a final convex. They perform well with fine work. Notches, trap triggers, spoons etc. As well as being stong enough to handle batoning.

Although I don't really "polish".I only go as high as 1000 grit wet/dry paper with a final strop on my jeans.

EDIT TO ADD PICS.

I had never thought to "split hair" before reading this thread. So I took my EDC out and touched it up, since I hadn't sharpened it in a few days. About ten passes each side on a foam pad with 1000 grit and a quick strop on my cargo pants.

Please excuse my poor macro skills.

Convex edge on my EDC. (Rounded final bevel)

100_1192.jpg

As I said in my post I don't really try to polish. But the green tint on the edge of my knife is the reflections of the pine trees in my backyard.

100_1183.jpg



And the split hair test.

100_1187.jpg


JVoultilainen...please don't take this as a slight on your tutorial. You have shown you have mad sharpening skills.:)

Just don't count out a properly done convex edge.:)
 
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Todd,

It depends on how you define "well". Also, I am by no means saying it is wrong to use a convex sharpening if it fits your needs. My standard for what is "good enough", however, is a bit severe because of my profession :D
 
Todd,

JVoultilainen...please don't take this as a slight on your tutorial...

Don't worry, I will not.

And I am not disrespecting convex sharpening in any way, because I do use it, but not when it comes to tools I use for cutting wood...such as my woodworking knife, plane, chisel etc.

Good job with the hair!
 
Hey, I just ordered one of those 6 inch diamond hones (flat like a stone) from Smoky. It should arrive tomorrow according to UPS. It is 1200 grit and is supposed to be real nice for polishing and the finishing edge. I paid about $59.99 for it, shipping and all. Couldn't really afford it but I wanted it for a couple of my Old Hickory's I use around the kitchen here. Those small stones and diamond sharpeners work real good and I'vd got some of them but I think this one will fill my needs around the house better. It has rubber feet so it won't slide and so forth. I'vd got a big ceramic rod made for the kitchen but I just don't get any good fast results from it. Maybe someone else would like to comment on the situation....PS. I guess I might better add that it depend's on how much you use your knife and all. I slice all my own meat, roast, bologna, bacon, whatever. I don't buy anything pre sliced. It's cheaper if I do it myself plus I can slice it as thick or thin as I might want at that particular time....
 
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If you want fast results you should probably get something a bit coarser than grit 1200, or the ceramic rod.

When I do a lot of cutting in the kitchen I use a coarse sharpening stone (grit 180-220) to create a burr fast. The burr can cut soft material very effectively, but it will not last very long.
 
Gotcha..Well, I'vd got 2 or 3 chef's diamond honing rods around here to and they will put a good edge on a knife real quick but I want the 1200 grit to really maintain a slick razor edge. Even when I'm gonna cook me a chicken I cut through the joints and not the bones. About the toughest thing I have to cut through with the Old Hickory's is that plastic wrap they have around a full roll of bologna. You are right though from where you're coming from....PS. Too late now anyway. It'll be here tomorrow and I don't want to send it back because it's too much trouble. I'vd already got it worked out into my monthly budget so I guess I'll keep it....
 
You are going to need that finer hone as well. So, don't feel bad about purchasing it :). I forgot to say that at the end of the day - of using a knife the way I described - it is necessary to give the knife a thorough sharpening.

My suggestion would be to get a really cheap coarse stone in addition to the finer ones you have. I use a oval scythe stone I got for 1 euro.

I do not want to use great amounts of money when it comes to sharpening equipment. If I need a ceramic sharpener, for example, I use a old fuse with a ceramic casing. Much cheaper and works very well.
 
JVoutilainen, I agree. I'vd already got some stones ranging from pretty coarse to very fine. I will tell you one thing though right here in front of God and everybody. Although I only have one knife made outside of the United States, (a Hen and Rooster made in Germany) I know that Finland is known for turning out a fine piece of steel when they take a notion. I would be proud to own one but hell, I don't ever see them around anywhere even in the catalogs....PS. Thank you for the advice sir....
 
Thank you for you kind words. However, use caution if you decide to buy knives that are labeled "made in Finland" or "handmade in Finland". There is some pretty useless stuff on the market and not all of it is actually produced (just assembled) in Finland. Finland is a exceedingly expensive country and products that are truly handmade here are pricey, to say the least. Maybe that is why they do not end up in catalogs.

If some day you want to purchase a knife (a puukko, for example) that is truly 100% handmade in Finland PM me to find out who the truly dedicated professionals are. But be warned, even the most basic model might cost 200$+...and that does not include shipping :).
 
I could scrounge up the $200.00 or a little more but not for about 3 months. I'm still laying in supplies for the winter. (propane, gasoline, food, tobacco, etc) Hey, I got the diamond honing 'stone' today. Put one of my Old Hickory's on it. It work's real good for finishing with the 1200 grit....
 
Production Quality

Thank you for you kind words. However, use caution if you decide to buy knives that are labeled "made in Finland" or "handmade in Finland". There is some pretty useless stuff on the market and not all of it is actually produced (just assembled) in Finland. Finland is a exceedingly expensive country and products that are truly handmade here are pricey, to say the least. Maybe that is why they do not end up in catalogs.

I have a number of Marttiini and Iisakki Järvenpää knives. Also some older "Normark" knives with Marttiini and Fiskars blades. Some of the Marttiini are newer production knives, having a black rubbery kind of handle and highly polished blades. The Normarks all have plastic or rubbery handles. All the others have birch handles.

I have Puukko and Leuku knives from Järvenpää and mostly Puukkos from Marttiini. A number of the older knives have engravings of reindeer pulling sleigh scenes. The Leukus are all convex ground.

Some are high carbon, some are stainless.

How would you rate these for production quality, on the whole?

 
ArfinGreebly,

First of all, I would steer clear of new Marttiini products. They might do the job, but I do not like how they look, feel, sharpen and the overall quality is not what it used to be. Besides, I think they fall into the category "assembled in Finland by a bunch of japanese robots"...

I feel sad for having to say this, but I would probably avoid all major brands these days, because they typically sacrifice quality for cheapest possible production price. Fiskars has some very nice gardening products, though, and their axes are actually very good (and I am finicky when it comes to axes).

I am probably not the best person to give balanced critique on the items you mentioned. I have been exposed to the "handmade" and "custom" scene too long to ever look back again :). If I were you I would look for older Marttiinis, I Järvenpääs, mora etc. Look for knives with a diamond shape blade cross section = handmade.
 
GENTLEMAN,

Don't get me wrong here, I am not trying to sell you anything :). But, I can push you into the right direction if you so desire.

The custom knife making circle is fairly small in Finland and although I do not know all of the "professionals" personally I know who they are and where to find them. What is even more important, I know what to avoid.

Also, if you are interested in high-end knives for the kitchen I know a blade smith in Germany who produces absolutely brilliant stuff.
 
JVoutilainen,,Sir, I am not looking for kitchen knives. My Old Hickory's will serve me well on that end. However I would like to have a fixed blade belt knife. I wear my Leatherman all the time but like the belt knife also. My Kabars and whatnot are too large to wear all the time for constant wearing. Right now my belt knife for constant carry is the Buck 103T skinning blade. It's a fine little piece but I would like to have a good one from Finland. I find the need for a good knife quite frequently in my day to day life way out here on the plains of Wyoming. I really would like one but it will be a good 3 months before I can have the money.
Hey, I don't care if it come's from you or your brother or sister or 1st cousin or whom ever. I'm getting to be an old man (not there yet) and have been around a little in my life. I have heard of knives made in Finland. I had a friend who carried one but he was killed in a place that used to be called Rhodesia. I have no idea what ever happened to the knife but somebody got a good one.,,,
 
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