In other words, you are going to assume that they did not.
I asked Sig point blank if they tested manually chambering of their P365 and they refused to say. So I have to assume that they did not do the testing and I did the testing myself. I've found plenty of products that do NOT meet their advertised specification because I tested them.
Do you believe the capacity rating on Li-Ion batteries or LED lumen ratings? I've seen supposedly self protected Li-Ion cells that had ZERO protection circuits inside them. I've seen 12,000 mAH Li-Ion rated 18650 cells that had a capacity of only 500 mAh. I've got an LED Bicycle light that was advertised at 1,200 lumens but only puts out 350 lumens.
First of all, it's perfectly safe to "manually chamber" a round in any autopistol I know of. What you're talking about is direct chamber loading.
I call it manual chambering. I chamber the round, NOT the pistol automatically chambering the round from the magazine when the slide is actuated. You may manually actuate the slide, but it is the PISTOL that AUTOMATICALLY chambers the round from the magazine, NOT YOU!
Beretta says it's safe in their guns while other manufacturers (SIG in specific) say it's not safe in their guns. I'll tell you what. Email Beretta and ask them to tell you about their testing that they did to determine it's safe. If they don't answer you, then you will have to assume they didn't test it and can't really say it's safe.
Actually, I would NOT trust them. I used to perform UL safety testing. We could not have sold products to our customers if we did not show them the UL safety testing data and well as the performance testing data. That's reality. But that is the industrial world vs the consumer world where manufacturers often treat you, the customer, like crap.
Nearly every thread you have started has been a list of useless things you are doing just because you want to.
You may consider it useless, but you have blind faith in the product and I do not. The "Finishing" work that I have performed has objectively and measurably improved the performance and margin of reliability. There is so much friction from the stripper rail on a new P365 that some people cannot even rack the slide over a magazine loaded to capacity. Whereas even loaded to capacity, it is relatively easy to rack my slide and there is no gritty feeling like the Sig had out of the box, because I polished the stripper rail like Sig should have done.
Modifying a pistol that already works so it will work.
So it works MEASURABLY BETTER. It's no different than improving an automobile by improving the ignition system and indexing the spark plugs so you can run the fuel mixture leaner and cleaner providing more horsepower and better gas mileage. But I also match port the intake manifolds to the cylinder head ports for better airflow and more horsepower, etc.
Modifying a pistol that is already reliable so it will be reliable.
But the Sig P365 is NOT perfectly reliable right out of the box. I can show you photos of the Sig recoil spring coiled over itself and jamming with only about 200 rounds through it. I think I've heard of 6 cases of this problem so far. Right out of the box the P365 doesn't reliably chamber a round. You must be sure to release the slide quickly so the momentum can help push the slide into battery. There is so much extra resistance that the recoil spring is often not capable of pulling the slide back into battery by itself. There are plenty of people reporting return to battery failures with their P365s.
You cannot release the slide on my P365 slowly enough to prevent it from returning to battery, because I've removed needless sources of friction that are there because of less than optimum finishing by Sig.
The trigger on my P365X is very smooth because of the careful polishing that I performed. Not rough and gritty as it came out of the box. The trigger pull is 7.0 lbs on the nose, which works well for a conceal carry weapon.
Modifying a pistol so you can more easily perform a non-recommended procedure that is never necessary in the first place.Useless.
So polishing a part now qualifies as a modification??? Gimme a break. Do you believe everything people tell you? Sig told me that manual chambering could break the extractor, but offered no proof, nor would even say if they did any testing. I tested the extractor in my pistol 1,830 times with no sign of damage. I don't believe that Sig actually did ANY manual chambering tests what so ever. I strongly suspect that they made up the claim that manual chambering can break the extractor.
You can eliminate the possibility without direct chamber loading by just not rechambering ammo repeatedly.
But that requires that YOU do NOT make any human errors.
Or you can eliminate the possibility entirely by manually chambering a round. It's a more reliable process less prone to human errors. Eliminating the possibility of errors in the process is how the manufacturing world improves their reliability. It's part of the Deming method of quality control that many high quality manufacturers use.
1. The manufacturer and others have already told you it's a bad idea so you don't need to find out for yourself
Manufacturers frequently lie and people sometimes die because of it. Sig has NOT been transparent. This gives me reasonable cause to DISTRUST Sig. I didn't drink the Sig Kool-Aid and I'm not part of the Sig cult.
2. You're testing a procedure that is never necessary.
It is if you want to eliminate the possibility of chambering a round from the magazine more than once.
Are you really saying that the ONLY way you ever chamber a round in your pistol is by direct chamber loading?
I never said such a thing. But if I am to carry +1, I ONLY manually chamber the first round.
When you reload at the range, or practice self-defense reloads, you never chamber the first round from the mag by dropping the mag?
At the range I am not necessarily going to be loading +1 and I would fire every round in the magazine. But once I've finished at the range, I will manually chamber the first JHP round and insert a mag loaded with JHP ammunition.
If I'm practicing self defense reloads I use dummy rounds in the magazine made from bullets epoxied into spent shell cases with holes drilled into the shell case. There is no issue with bullet setback using a dummy round. After I insert a magazine I ALWAY release the slide quickly to maintain the muscle memory, even though under normal circumstances I can ease the slide on my P365X and it will ALWAYS return to battery because of the internal polishing that I have performed.
No that's nonsense, you don't need to do that to make a VW Beetle reliable UNLESS you mistreat it.
Maybe if you mean not driving like a granny is mistreating it. I've had two flywheels come loose so I always add 4 extra dowel pins that are also drilled deeper than stock and then use a reamer to match ream the crankshaft and flywheel to make a slight interference fit. The stock dowels in the crankshaft do NOT have an interference fit. It's a common enough problem that they have been making drill jigs to add the dowels to the crankshaft and flywheel since the early 1970's, as well as making higher strength gland nuts to be able to withstand torquing to double the factory recommended torque spec. There is also a problem with the wavy spring washers that VW uses on their rocker arm shafts. Replacing the wavy washers with carefully clearanced flat washers eliminates the reliability problem and allows higher RPM use before valve float occurs. It's time consuming but more reliable.
You also can't believe everything that you read. The official VW manual specifies a spark plug torque of 25 ft lbs. Unfortunately that results in cracking between the spark plug holes and the valve seats. The spark plug manufacturers specify a maximum of 21 ft lbs dry, which I determined by testing to be the equivalent of 18.5 ft lbs lubed with anti-seize compound. Some spark plug manufacturers recommend NOT using anti-seize compound. I've been using anti-seize compound since 1976 and I've NEVER had a problem OR a seized spark plug thread. But I think that the spark plug manufacturers are worried about getting conductive anti-seize compound on the insulator because of sloppy workmanship. Seized spark plugs is actually common on air cooled VW cylinder heads.
I really don't understand why you are so bent out of shape about polishing internal parts that would eventually be polished after many thousands or rounds through the pistol.
The only actual "modifications" that I have performed have been to mildly reshape and smooth out the grip module, reshape the floorplate to better fit my hand, and extend the magazine release button, and add weight to my grip module. I can't be too far off base when a least two companies are offering extended magazine release buttons and Wilson Combat offers a weighting kit for their P365 grip module.