See post #175
Now look at the rebound slide and notice it has a slot in it at the back. When the slide is in its assembled position a stud (pin) fits inside that slot. When fully assembled the spring is supposed to be trapped in front of the stud.
Most reassembly tools are designed so they can push the spring far enough inside the slide so that the slot in the tool will allow the slide to be dropped into a fully assembled position with the spring depressed enough to be in front of the stud and then the tool withdrawn. I've used any number of modified screwdrivers too, and yes - they will work. But I believe you will find the one from Brownells is easier and a bit quicker, especially with full strength springs.
I complement you on your photography (and am a bit jealous too ) but remember the enlarged images also make tool marks and imperfections look worse then they really are. Also never reach for a stone or other polishing tool before you use Dykem (or a wide felt-tip pen) to check exactly what and where one part is actually touching another. Otherwise you can make something worse rather then better even if both are smoother. If they aren't in contact the way they should be (and they're can be a number of reasons for this) you aren't accomplishing anything.
Now look at the rebound slide and notice it has a slot in it at the back. When the slide is in its assembled position a stud (pin) fits inside that slot. When fully assembled the spring is supposed to be trapped in front of the stud.
Most reassembly tools are designed so they can push the spring far enough inside the slide so that the slot in the tool will allow the slide to be dropped into a fully assembled position with the spring depressed enough to be in front of the stud and then the tool withdrawn. I've used any number of modified screwdrivers too, and yes - they will work. But I believe you will find the one from Brownells is easier and a bit quicker, especially with full strength springs.
I complement you on your photography (and am a bit jealous too ) but remember the enlarged images also make tool marks and imperfections look worse then they really are. Also never reach for a stone or other polishing tool before you use Dykem (or a wide felt-tip pen) to check exactly what and where one part is actually touching another. Otherwise you can make something worse rather then better even if both are smoother. If they aren't in contact the way they should be (and they're can be a number of reasons for this) you aren't accomplishing anything.