Single Shots

[PRD1]

Yes, several. Here are a couple of my favorites: a J. Probin ('Maker to His RH the Prince of Wales')20-bore Officer's Dueller, ca. 1785, and a modern 28 bore flint dueller by Lowell Haarer, both very accurate. They are shown on targets of 5 shots, fired at 12 yards (proper duelling distance), and in duelling cadence: shots fired from low-gun starting position, within 3 seconds of signal.

PRD1 - mhb - MIke

 

[goldpelican]

Wow - just found out that there are a couple of examples of rifled Harpers Ferry pistols. Still 54 cal though, unlike Pedersoli's 58 cal.

http://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/search/object/nmah_1082453

 

[Dog Soldier]

I have owned a couple of the Gun Works Flint pistols. They are very capable of fine accuracy.


http://www.thegunworks.com/custprodgun.cfm?ProductID=121&do=detail&Cat2Option=yes

 

[Blackpowdershooter44]

I like the reat Plains better than the Trapper that I built. I think the materials used and the workmanship when it came to making the materials are superior to that of the Trapper. The Trapper was problematic (had to redrill the ram rod hole, file down the drum so it would time with the lockplate, the brass trigger was magneticable (there had to be iron in it). The Great Plains was simpler and just better.

Thanks Gary, I'll look into getting one.

 

[kBob]

How about a 25 year old Pedersoli Kentucky Pistol? Quarter decade ago the first Christmas in the then new to us house and the girls said "what with closing and the repairs and moving and all times are hard and we are going in on a single Christmas gift for you so keep it simple" and there it is.

Man, costume rings and ear bobs can sure make you feel like a cheap B&*@$*d, even as you dash gleefully about the tree giggling.

For a number of years it was on the mantle or a living room book case, but about half its life it has been on the mathum shelf over my closets on display to me with other objects d'Bob like my "I love me" shadow box, etc. It has only been on the range a few times in that time, though an occasional shot in the back yard and powder only loads on holidays (needs to be cleaned anyway I always reason).

Think next week once the living room is redone it shall move back to "public" viewing, perhaps high enough on a book case to be admired but not attract fingers rather than the mantle though.

No I do not store it cocked, did that so you could see better.

-kBob

 

[rdstrain49]

When you've been collecting off and on for almost 50 years, you end up with a few single shots.
The top picture comprised my collection up until a few weeks ago with the bottom picture being my latest additons.
At top center--a Navy Arms 1855 Springfield pistol carbine in .58 cal. Got it in a trade and have little to nothing invested.
left side
2nd--Navy Arms 1777 Charleville in .67 cal. I think I bought this back in the 70's used for $50
3rd---Lyman Great Plains pistol in .54 cal--a friend built this from a Lyman kit
4th---reproduction Parker target pistol by Bondini--.45 cal.---a fairly recent purchase with the idea to find a second to put together a dueling set on the cheap.
5th---an engraved .41 cal percussion derringer from Dixie gunworks. Being engraved it might have cost me $60 or $70 back in the late 70's.
right side
2nd and 3rd---two Tower flintlocks from Dixie gunworks made in Japan in .69 cal--Dixie sold these for $39.95 back in the 70's They came from Japan with soft frizzens, so I had to get them hardened to shoot.
4th---Pedersoli 1804 Harper's Ferry---.58 cal--originals were .54 smoothbores
5th--.41 cal made from a kit by Classic firearms. This was the same model as their derringer with a blade bolted on to make a poor mans Elgin cutlass pistol.

Here are three more that I picked up in just the last few weeks.

On top is a Military Heritage imported (Indian made) 1766 French cavalry flinter, Next is a Traditions Parker replica, and at bottom is a Pedersoli Queen Anne. All are unifired. I snagged the cavalry flinter and the Queen Anne in a live auction for a total of $425 including buyer's premium. The Pedersoli sells for more than that by itself. The Traditions, I won on Gunbroker for $170.
Once again, I bought this with the idea to obtain a second to put together a dueling set. I may have a better chance of finding a 2nd Traditions than I have finding a second Bondini shown in the first picture. However, the Bondini is a superior replica to the Traditions in every way.

F.O.
If that is a P. Bondini, I will make a very good offer for it.

Regards
RS

 

[rdstrain49]

kBob, I have the twin in cap. I shoot it often. Monster main spring, sweet trigger (now) and a joy to shoot.

 

[kBob]

rdstrain49,

So in detail, what did you do to your trigger. Mine is a bit heavy.

-kBob

 

[whughett]

View attachment 227486 View attachment 227488

Left is a .50 caliber percussion by Ron Scott, right is a Ken Netting 20 ga. smoothbore (which I no longer have).

The wood on the Scott is absolutely stunning.
Every time I get the hots to buy a single shot I remind myself of the revolvers I've yet to aquire.

 

[Kaeto]

I'd love to have a single shot flinter. If possible in .54 cal as I have a TC Renegade in that cal.

 

[4v50 Gary]

Kbob - Trigger weight is affected by the trigger's installation. The closer the sear is to the pivot point of the trigger, the heavier the trigger. The further away, the more leverage the trigger has on the sear.

If the firearm is already constructed and you can't move the trigger, you can file smooth the contact points of the trigger and the area of the sear that it contacts.

I don't like the idea of rebending the sear spring because you can weaken it and shorten its life (springs should be softened, bent, hardened and then tempered for longevity)..

 

[rdstrain49]

kBob;

Been a couple of years ago but I'll give you the procedure to the best of my recollection. If you are going to take on the trigger, I'll be more than happy to tear mine down and not only confirm what I think I did but also give you some measurements directly from the parts.

Here we go, and in no particular order.

1) Recut the full cock notch to the width of the sear plus somewhere around + 8 to 12 1/1000"
2) Stone and polish the full cock notch and removing sharp edges (NOT on the face of the notch, only on the sides).
3) Re-cut the angle of the sear BE CAREFUL do not go past 90 degrees or you will have hammer push off and have to start over, IF you have enough material left.
4) Stone and polish sear and again break sharp edges, again only on the sides.
5) Polish contact point between trigger and lock.
6) Polish all pivot points.
7) Polish all bearing points.
I'm sure I'm missing one or two things but this should be a very good start.
I had not really thought about this weapon much, just shot it a lot. Don't think I ever weighed the trigger, just know I liked it. So, I got out my trigger weights and checked. The trigger breaks just like glass at between 3 1/2 and 3 3/4 pounds. Just doesn't get any better. Once again, if memory serves, I think the trigger started life at about 12 to 15 pounds.

I use a hard knife edge stone for full cock notch and sear work. I also use a lot of 1200 and 1500 grit paper. A coarse stone is used for serious cutting.

As always, this is for informational purposes only and should not be attempted by anyone who does not have the necessary skills and training.

If you have a Dremel tool
If you know where your Dremel tool is
If you have used your Dremel tool in the last 6 months
If you have ever in your life done an "action job" using a Dremel tool
FORGET YOU EVER READ THIS POST, SELL ALL OF YOUR GUNS, AND DON'T EVER TALK TO ME AGAIN.

kBob, if you decide to take this on, give me a call and I'll give you a hand. I was an Armorer and Instructor for nearly 30 years, don't need to be face to face to get you through this.

Regards
Roger
pm sent (I hope) with contact info.


BTW 4v50Gary, other than R&R, no springs were touched.

 

[Panzerschwein]

I might well be buying a Pedersoli Charles Moore later on this winter or in the early spring. Right now it's just so cold out I can't enjoy black powder, too much dexterity is needed and no ranges anywhere nearby let you shoot it indoors (understandable). I have just enjoyed my Harpers Ferry so, so much. It's been super reliable and highly accurate. I'd imagine the rifled Charles Moore that also has a rear sight will be even better. I do so much love the simple (yet complex) world of single shot blackpowder target shooting.

 

[kBob]

Roger,

Thank you much. and I got the PM.

The dremel is in a non gun tool box at the other end of the shop and only used for non gun stuff. I did once use a dremel for a gun job around 1980 I used most of a tube of cut off wheels to cut down an M-14 magazine to make an almost flush fitting magazine of five shot capacity for an M-1A. Naturally with in 6 months I saw my first commercial short magazine for an M-1A. After the experience of flying fragments of cut off wheel and not getting cuts quite straight and hours of "Arbiet Maches Frie" I decided "Never Again" with the dremel.....on guns at least. Room mate of a bit loved the thing for jewelry making.

-kBob

 

[Panzerschwein]

I've used a dremel for gunsmithing. It's only a bad idea if you're a klutz. Otherwise, it's fast and easy compared to other options.

 

[rdstrain49]

I've used a dremel for gunsmithing. It's only a bad idea if you're a klutz. Otherwise, it's fast and easy compared to other options.

I must respectfully submit that we have reached an impasse. From my point of view, a bad idea is just that. If you continue down the devils road, misery is sure to follow. Now let's go shoot.

 

[rdstrain49]

I might well be buying a Pedersoli Charles Moore later on this winter or in the early spring. Right now it's just so cold out I can't enjoy black powder, too much dexterity is needed and no ranges anywhere nearby let you shoot it indoors (understandable). I have just enjoyed my Harpers Ferry so, so much. It's been super reliable and highly accurate. I'd imagine the rifled Charles Moore that also has a rear sight will be even better. I do so much love the simple (yet complex) world of single shot blackpowder target shooting.

I feel your cold weather pain. Some say I live in Iowa, I submit that in fact I live in Heaven. My main range, 50 yard pistol 100 & 200 yard rifle is only a 2 minute Mule ride (Kawasaki not the other) from the house. When the weather is just too cold I fall back on my back up range which is only 50 yards. Here I load in my armory, step outside, prime or cap, shoot then back to warm up. So far this winter I've only missed 4 days shooting due to weather. Like I said, Heaven.

 

[D. Buck Stopshere]

Glad to see all the post on match-grade single shot black powder pistols. I'll have to get photos taken of my match pistols I used at the National NMLRA Championship matches from 1985 to 1998. Among the "zip guns" AKA "Buck Rogers" ( Not Mr Rogers neighborhood ) single shot pistols that migrated on to the pistol line at Friendship were pistols primarily made by Harold Yazel of Mentone, IN. He was "accompanied" by fellow gunmakers, Bob Tingle of Shelbyville, IN, Alex Blaines of 10-Ring Precision out of San Antonio, TX, and Dick & Rob Lewis of Tri-L out of OH. The pistols were equipped with barrels from H & H, Douglas, & Ed Rayl of WV. Newer companies were like Cimarron Gun Works out of OK. Most had inline actions (before Knight rifles were introduced in 1985) and had either Micro or Bo-Mar adjustable rear & front sights. The grips were fitted with Herrett "National" walnut grips with adjustable heel rest. Most popular calibers are .32, .36, .40, & .45.

 

[rdstrain49]

The only problem, as I see it, with the custom target guns whether in BP competition or any other shooting sport is that the competitions become less about who is the best shot and more about who has the most money to spend on a gun. Been down that road, now I ONLY shoot matches that require un-mmodified weapons (IDPA) or in the case of BP, traditional style weapons. That being said, I do appreciate the advances in technology and the skill of those who build the space guns. Let's be honest, without the advances in technology we would not have had the flintlock or cap guns. My $.02 spent.

 

[44 Dave]

I've used a dremel for gunsmithing. It's only a bad idea if you're a klutz. Otherwise, it's fast and easy compared to other options.

There are some people that can screw up a steel ball with a rubber hammer, they should not be let any where near s gun!
I use a Dremel when a rotary cut or grind is the only option, as hammer mod to accept a cap post, and how about opening up those Remington cylinders so as to use a capper.

 

[rodwha]

I needed a dremel grinding stone to open up the loading ports on my Pietta Remington NMA and ROA so as to load the custom boolits I've made (or anything other than a ball in a Pietta NMA).

 

[Malachi Leviticus Blue]

I agree with 44 Dave, it's not the Dremel that's the problem (they have their place), it's the Dremel first, think later, user that is the problem. This also applies to Sawzalls. I know a guy who cut out several floor joists during a pluming project and then nearly cut his arm off.

 

[rodwha]

 

[rdstrain49]

While I certainly respect your choice to use a Dremel, I have done as you describe using a hand window file, assorted needle files and stones of assorted grits and shapes. BTW a hand window file is the perfect tool for "opening up" the Rem. cyl. and probably takes less time than a grinder,most certainly gives a cleaner and more uniform job. Further, I think you guys are taking my earlier comments WAY out of context. While I don't personally have any use for a Dremel in "gunsmithing" applications, my comments were intended as tongue in cheek humor. If anyone took offense, he she or they should really lighten up a bit.

 

[Pete D.]

.50 Caliber by Bob Worthington at Greyhaven Arms. The sights, though, are by me. Bob's originals are a lot prettier but not adjustable.