Smith and Wesson 65-2 vs 19

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Huntolive

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I have a Smith & Wesson model 65 - 2 probably from about 1980 it's got an amazing trigger and 4 inch barrel.

What I'm wondering is it's comparison to the model 19.

Specifically does it have the same weakness with the ring around the forcing cone or whatever that can sometimes break with uses of hi power 357? Or is that problem unique to the model 19?
Which are better and why?
I don't care about the adjustable sights on the model 19 because this is not a gun for Target work or hunting my model 65 would be for Cary and just because it looks so nice and has such a sweet trigger

But I may Sell the 65 - 2 to make room for more robust longer barreled hunting revolvers
Perhaps including one of the new Colt 4 and a quarter inch king cobras, plus I already have a 3-inch new model king cobra
 
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All older K frames have shaved forcing cones which are prone to failure. I believe S&W have finally addressed this problem with the new model 66.
 
Look at the barrel forcing cone of your Model 65. It should have a flat cut into the outside of the bottom of the barrel. Look at some the photos posted in one of your other Model 19 threads.

This flat area is the weak point and where the forcing cone will crack if it does crack.

My Model 67, 38 Special k-frame revolver even has this flat cut in the bottom of the forcing cone so it is a feature of all the k-frame, 38 caliber revolvers.

I suspect that the fixed sight S&W k-frame 357 Magnum revolvers are not pushed as hard as their adjustable sighted cousins so you do not hear as much about forcing cones getting cracked with them.
 
The only real difference between the M65 (Stainless) and the M19 (carbon steel- blue or nickel plated) is the M19 is milled for the adjustable rear sight, and ejector rod shroud on the barrel.
I carried an issue M65 for part of my career. Later was allowed to carry M66 issued to pistol team members. (M66 is a stainless M19). Later, we were issued M686. Eventually transitioned to M22 glock (1996).

I much preferred the M66 for carry... (personally owned M19 Nkl’d at a different agency) -lighter than M686, MUCH more accurate than a glock. Adjustable sights allow correction of POI to POA. M65’s typically shot 4-6” low and 4” right for me. A Swiss file and a 3lb babbet mallet usually “fixed” the M65 to satisfactory performance.

I shot about 50/1 .38’s. I kept gun sighted for .38 158gr SWC. Mostly 158gr HP Remington .357’s. Later 125gr Winchester, eventually 145gr Silver Tips (Reduced muzzle flash!).

added: The milled flat on the bottom of the barrel is to allow clearance for the yoke/gas ring of the cylinder. First corrected by the L-frame. Later, on newest M19’s, which is actually a “hybrid” frame is slightly bigger, yoke wider, but same charge hole spacing of earlier K-frames.

But then, everybody knows, a lone ranger carries SILVER-tip BULLETS!!!...;)
 
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Thanks,
Conclusion:
Anybody want to buy a nice model 65-2?

I'm thinking $570

What would be a fair price for one in excellent condition, very clean, shiny, super smooth trigger. ?

Just to confirm the new Colt King cobras and old king cobras don't have this problem right?
I have three in New model king cobra and I don't want it to blow up.
 
Thanks,
Conclusion:
Anybody want to buy a nice model 65-2?

I'm thinking $570

What would be a fair price for one in excellent condition, very clean, shiny, super smooth trigger. ?

Just to confirm the new Colt King cobras and old king cobras don't have this problem right?
I have three in New model king cobra and I don't want it to blow up.
That seems like a steep price to me I can get a model 19 for close to 600. Also what with all the comparison threads? Just pick a solid .357 revolver and shoot it.
 
Obviously there are thousands of iterations of 357 some of which have issues that take years for people to know about which is exactly why forms like this exist:to help folks figure out what is best for their purposes and to assist others with the same.
 
Obviously there are thousands of iterations of 357 some of which have issues The tick years for people to know about which is exactly why forms like this exist to help folks figure out what is best for their purposes and to assist others with the same.
That's not the contention. The contention is you obviously has questions in regards to different models why not make one thread?
 
They are all about completely different guns for different reasons and purposes.
Anyway, I don't care to debate, I come here to get and share experience and information and let's stick to that
 
Between different materials (stainless vs blued) and fixed vs adjustable sights...they are pretty much mechanically identical. One is no stronger than the other, as a K frame they’ll wear sooner than an L or N frame with a steady diet of magnum rounds.

Personally I wouldn’t load either one of them up with heavy hunting loads. They may take it, but why push it.

I have three K frame .357’s, a 3” 13 a 2.5” 19 and a 4” 66. I keep them fed with .38’s and mid-range .357 loads. They’re just fun enough to shoot without trying to max things... especially as they’re getting up there in years.

I save the heavier loads for the 686+ and the Dan Wesson’s, those guns are a built a bit sturdier. I think one of the 686+ 6” would work for your hunting desires. :thumbup:

Stay safe.
 
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