so everybody says the ruger mkii is a *** to clean

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silverlance

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but my gunsmith showed me how to assemble and dissassemble one pretty easily. he said that the trick was to "find the tension" when putting it back, and to press the trigger to drop the tensioner. or something like that.

now i'll be the first one to say that i don't like any gun that requires you to pull the trigger to assemble or dissassemble, but then again when the trigger is pulled the back lever is not even inserted... so i suppose it's not as dangerous.

anyway, why does everybody say it's so hard to clean?

any input you ruger mkii people?
 
I have always used the "tension method" as well, if there is a slight pressure on the mainspring housing when I close it, I know the hammer strut is seated right.

I've been taking MK II's apart since I was 9 and have never understood why some people find it so difficult. :scrutiny:
 
my 22/45 was a total PIA to field strip...............the first two times. After doing it a couple of times, and actually looking and thinking about how the parts interact, its no sweat. Now i'm able to detail strip it with relative ease to install parts, etc.
 
I'm just echoeing the above comments. The Ruger was my first gun to EVER field strip. The first time I broke it down was torture. I had to take it back to the gunstore and even they had trouble with it. Not to scare you away or anything, it's very easy now. Basically falls apart and just slides back together.
 
The Ruger Mark II is definitely a new animal to tame when it comes to field stripping. I've had more than 1 person come to me with a Mark II dissasembled. Like everyone else is saying once you know how it's easy.
 
The Mk IIIs with their mag disconnects are even more PITA, I've never said it was hard, just a PITA to get everything lined up for reassembly. Now with the Mk IIIs you need a mag to drop the hammer. Remove the mag and disassemble. Then cock the hammer to insert the bolt, insert the mag to drop the hammer, remember to point the gun down so the hammer strut stays up, then re-assemble remembering to tilt back up so the hammer strut falls into place as you close the mainspring. PITA in my opinion, but not really hard once you've done it a few times. Make darn sure the firing pin retaining cross-pin does not fall out while re-assembling as dry-frire without it in place can ruin the gun.

Look on the bright side, at least you don't need hex head wrenches like you do with the Browning Buckmark :) Another one that is a PITA but not really hard.

--wally.
 
If the upper half of the frame had been made a quarter-inch longer, none of the peculiar gyrations would have been necessary. I say it's a sloppy, cheapskate design, and I, for one, will never buy another Ruger product.
 
The MK I was my first auto loader and the first time I detail stripped it I ended up taking the pieces to the local gunsmith in a brown paper bag. :banghead: He was gracious enough to help me out and give me some well thought out advice and I'll be forever grateful, wish I still lived there as now I can afford to actually buy stuff from him.

Once you "get it", you'll have it forever. Great gun and truly a grand design from a gunmaker who will live on as an industry giant.

Standing Wolf- I think you need a nap or something.
 
Your went to your gunsmith and he taught you a trick to field stripping a gun.

Think about that for a while, and you will understand why some people think it is a pain.

I never had any actual problem with mine, but I remember the manual had the "turn the gun this way and pull the trigger . . .now tilt the gun like this and pull the trigger."

Of all of the guns I have ever owned, none were as complicated to field strip as the Ruger. I don't think it was hard, but it always seemed that there was excess complication, so I got rid of mine and I don't plan on getting another.
 
They're easy to get apart, but hell to get back together.

Especially if you're used to Sigs and 1911s...they seem SO much easier to re-assemble.

- brickboy240
 
I don't think that they are that bad, I used to keep my manual out and open and follow the directions. I haven't had mine that long, and honestly I don't clean my 10/22 and mark II every time I shoot them.

I did some some trigger work on the Mark II (with the help of markii.org) and during the process understood a lot more about how the pistol works. Since then I can see the correct way that things need to be and it is more intuitive.

I also think the more you learn about different pistols the easier it all gets. When you remove a mainspring housing from a 1911 the mainspring housing on the mark 2 makes more sense. If you've only worked on a glock it all seems weird.
 
I once broke down a friend's Ruger MkII on his dining room table with him and his wife watching. Took it apart, adjusted the overtravel screw on the trigger (requires more disassembly than field stripping), and put it back together with just what I had in my pockets. (I did have to borrow an allen wrench from him for the overtravel screw.)

Did it all in less than 15 minutes.

They're different, but if you follow the instructions, they're not hard to take apart or reassemble.
 
On related note (but not Ruger-bashing :) ) does anyone have suggestions on a 22 auto that *is* nice & easy to field-strip/clean?

Like a Hammerli Xesse, maybe? Haven't handled one, but hope to...
 
krochus said:
Turn it upside down with the muzzle pointed slightly upwards and pull the trigger, that pesky link will fall right in.
Click to expand...

Yup that's just it too. I too mine apart for the first time 2 weeks ago and couldn't get it. after about 45 minutes I came to this site, searched for "ruger MKII reassembly" found a site that had pics and in less than 2 minutes had her back together all clean.
 
You guys realize that the "finding the tension" and "Turn it upside down with the muzzle pointed slightly upwards and pull the trigger" tricks (complete with pictures) are directly out of the reassembly portion of the factory manual?

Reassembly steps from the Ruger MkII manual:

9. Invert the pistol as shown and depress the trigger with your thumb. Hold the pistol as shown in Figure 9. (Figure shows the gun inverted with the muzzle angled slightly upward.)

10. Make sure you can see the end of the hammer strut when you lift the housing up (See Figure 10A). (Figure shows gun inverted with trigger depressed and muzzle angled sharply upward with the mainspring housing just starting to be pivoted into place.) The hammer strut should go into the oval-shaped cut inside the mainspring housing. Spring pressure should be felt just before the housing is fully shut if the internal parts are correctly aligned (See Figure 10B). (Figure shows gun inverted with trigger depressed and muzzle angled sharply upward with the mainspring housing almost completely pivoted into place.)​

Ruger will ship you manuals at no charge. If you don't want to wait, you can download them from the Ruger site directly--also free.

http://www.ruger-firearms.com/Firearms/SE-InstructManualsP.html

Perhaps we have discovered one reason some people find the MkII difficult to reassemble.
 
the way i figure it

as long as its REASSEMBLY where i have to pull the trigger, i'm ok.

pulling the trigger during DISSASSEMBLY, or just anytime the hammer is in the gun, is something to be avoided imho.
 
silverlance said:
as long as its REASSEMBLY where i have to pull the trigger, i'm ok.

pulling the trigger during DISSASSEMBLY, or just anytime the hammer is in the gun, is something to be avoided imho.
Click to expand...

Don't buy a Glock then, you have to dryfire one anytime you want to disassemble it.
 
Reassembling a Ruger.....

.....it's so simple, a caveman could do it:
attachment.php

Apparently, you 22/45 owners (polymer frame with 1911 grip angle)
can skip directly to Step 11.
Us lucky MKII owners (steel frame with Luger grip angle) continue at
Step 8:
attachment.php

The forgoing may give the impression that reassembly is difficult.....
what humorists!
 

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