kmw1954
Member
https://www.titanreloading.com/lee-...lee-reloading-kits/lee-value-turret-press-kit
If you haven't ordered already.
If you haven't ordered already.
Starting Reloading
- Thread starter Styx
- Start date
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Demi-human
maybe likes firearms a little bit…
I like the Hornady Manual. I can put notes from other manuals and Manufacturers Online Data into it for cartridges I load for.
Having said that, the most important part of the whole publication is in the front.
Read it. First. It made things a lot clearer. Then read it again. This time it will be fun.
I enjoyed it anyway.
It explains important things, like how grn is not equal to grm.Good things to know are in the front...
Plus you have THR.
OP
OP
Styx
Member
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2014
- Messages
- 3,282
I invested a lot in 40s&w pistols and accessories for them without really paying attention to ammo prices. At Wal-Mart, 40s&w is 2x or more as much as 9mm. Can't afford to pay almost $30-$40 per 100. My hope is I will be able to shoot more for less money.
Oh, you will. There will be an initial upfront “capital” expenditure, but the cost of components will be less than the cost of ammo. You’ll break even at some point and then start saving money. Or shooting more!
Along the way, you’ll learn all kinds of interesting stuff and enjoy having control over your ammo’s characteristics.
Along the way, you’ll learn all kinds of interesting stuff and enjoy having control over your ammo’s characteristics.
Whiterook808
Member
That's what we all said! Now I am not sure if I reload to shoot or shoot so I can reload the cases.
Another vote for the Lyman manual for a first manual. I also like my Hornady because I shoot so many of their bullets.
If you have lots of spare time, or space is limited (apartment) you could get by with the Lee whack a mole kits or the Lee hand press. Both don’t require a dedicated work space. The trade off is the amount of time it takes to load on them, but they are cheap. Otherwise, it’s hard to beat the Lee classic turret- it’s what I use.
If you have lots of spare time, or space is limited (apartment) you could get by with the Lee whack a mole kits or the Lee hand press. Both don’t require a dedicated work space. The trade off is the amount of time it takes to load on them, but they are cheap. Otherwise, it’s hard to beat the Lee classic turret- it’s what I use.
I started to save money, but really just ended up being able to shoot more for the same money. A lot of us went that route, whether intentionally or not.
But yes, with discipline you can shoot more for less........really you can......
Legionnaire
Contributing Member
And you'll save more money reloading .357 and .44 magnum ... and even more reloading .44 special ... than you will 9mm or .40 S&W.... with discipline you can shoot more for less........really you can......
kmw1954
Member
Reloading is a separate hobby though completely interconnected. One feeds the other. Then one could also add into the mix Casting Boolits.
The thing about manuals is they all pretty much contain the same information, both in the processes and practice in the front to the load data in the back. The difference is in how it is written and expressed. Some people just explain things more in a way that I understand even though they are both saying the same thing.
Yes reloading can be a dangerous hobby but so can sky diving or cooking. That's why we take our time and follow recipes until we have enough experience and confidence to cook on our own.
The press I recommended I did so because I believe it is the best value for the money for someone that is looking to load pistol calibers. Now if a bottleneck case was thrown in my recommendation would be different.
Welcome to the addiction, we are here to enable you!
The thing about manuals is they all pretty much contain the same information, both in the processes and practice in the front to the load data in the back. The difference is in how it is written and expressed. Some people just explain things more in a way that I understand even though they are both saying the same thing.
Yes reloading can be a dangerous hobby but so can sky diving or cooking. That's why we take our time and follow recipes until we have enough experience and confidence to cook on our own.
The press I recommended I did so because I believe it is the best value for the money for someone that is looking to load pistol calibers. Now if a bottleneck case was thrown in my recommendation would be different.
Welcome to the addiction, we are here to enable you!
Reloading is fun, relaxing, cost effective, rewarding, and dangerous if not approached with the right mind set. You really need to read the procedures section in the manual (Lee or Lyman) at least 2x and then ask questions. Folks here on THR are glad to help. In reloading, the dangerous question is the one not asked!
In some ways, reloading is quite simple, but getting started can be overwhelming. Just don't get in a rush. Double check your dies set-up, measure charges carefully and often with a scale if you use a powder measure, and learn how your equipment functions. You will become more confident as you replicate the loads and slowly produce finished ammo. Do not rush!
If you have access to someone to mentor you locally, you should take advantage of that opportunity. But remember, many folks have learned using just the manuals... AND by asking lots of questions!
Welcome to the fun!
dangerous if not approached with the right mind set. You really need to read the procedures section in the manual (Lee or Lyman) at least 2x and then ask questions. Folks here on THR are glad to help. In reloading, the dangerous question is the one not asked!In some ways, reloading is quite simple, but getting started can be overwhelming. Just don't get in a rush. Double check your dies set-up, measure charges carefully and often with a scale if you use a powder measure, and learn how your equipment functions. You will become more confident as you replicate the loads and slowly produce finished ammo. Do not rush!
If you have access to someone to mentor you locally, you should take advantage of that opportunity. But remember, many folks have learned using just the manuals... AND by asking lots of questions!
Welcome to the fun!
sequins
Member
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2014
- Messages
- 1,478
To start I recommend the following items, perhaps some of which can cost less in a kit.
I prefer single stage loading to progressive loading so I will give single stage advice:
First you're going to need to know what you're trying to load and how to load it so you need a Loading Manual (Lee or Lyman is best)
Next you're going to need to acquire brass to load, powder to load, bullets to load, and primers. If you want you can just use whatever brass you have on hand, but the book data in the Lyman book will list specific model number and manufacturer brass, primers, and bullets for loads so you can use the exact laboratory spec if you want to have maximum confidence. I recommend doing official loads with 100% sanctioned parts at least for your first 100 shells.
Now that you know what you want to load and have the components you'll want to prepare your reloading press and setup your dies. You'll learn more about the dies in the following steps and depending on the press you select the steps to set them up for your press will vary. Generally speaking you want to make sure that your dies are set in the press at a height where they press perfectly flush with the shell holder during the period of greatest cam-over on your presses stroke. Watch some youtube videos to learn more about how to do this just right. I personally use a Forster Co-ax press so my shell holder is integral to the press, but other presses require a shell holder that is paired to the caliber you seek to reload.
Once your press is setup you'll need to get your brass in spec and make sure your primer pocket is ready for a fresh primer with a sizing and de-priming die to size and, if it's already fired brass, de-prime your cases and prepare them to reload. I recommend a de-priming & sizing die from Redding if you want the best, or Lee if you prefer the most affordable.
Depending on the cartridge you're loading you might need to trim your brass at this point, but since you're loading 40 you shouldn't need to so I won't go into details on this step. If you reload for a revolver or something just be aware that you can't reload indefinitely without trimming.
Once your brass is properly sized with an empty primer pocket and a correct case length you're going to want to expand your case mouths to properly receive a bullet with an expander die from Redding if you want the best, or Lee if you prefer the most affordable.
If you're using old brass, you will probably want to clean your brass before loading a new cartridge. You can use a dry tumbler with walnut or corn cob media, or a wet tumbler with stainless steel media. Frankford Arsenal and Thumler make good wet tumblers which is my preferred method.
Once your brass is clean and expanded you're going to need a way to prime your cases. You can hand prime, on-press prime, or off-press prime. Depending on what press you get you can hopefully prime on press, but there are stand-alone priming machines and hand priming machines available as well. There are many good ways to prime so just find one that you like best. I on-press prime with a Forster Co-ax press.
Once properly sized, expanded, and primed your cases and ready for powder and you're going to need a way to charge your cases. That means either powder scoopers, a powder thrower, or a powder trickler. (I believe that Lee makes the best scoops, and Redding makes the best powder thrower and powder trickler while Lee makes the most affordable)
To ensure you're getting the right amount of powder you're going to need a way to weigh your charges, and that means a beam scale or a digital scale. I like the MyWeigh brand digital scales, but if you're on a budget go for Frankford Arsenal.
Once you get the precisely measured and correct amount of powder in the case you're ready to seat the bullet with your seater die. Make sure you carefully adjust this die in small increments to set the right depth without going too far! Redding makes very high quality seating dies, but Lee is more affordable.
You're going to need to make sure you aren't going too far and are in fact seating your bullets to the proper depth in the case using a set of calipers. Mitutoyo makes the finest measuring devices known to man, but Frankford Arsenal will do.
If you do load one too far, you'll need to pull the bullet and try loading it with powder and seating the bullet again using a bullet puller kinetic hammer or collet die. Both work well but the collet die is much better for large volumes of pulls. Frankford Arsenal makes a good hammer and Hornady or RCBS make good collet dies (but be sure the collet die works in your press design before buying one, they aren't compatible with all presses)
Now that your cartridge is fully assembled the final step is to use your crimp die to apply a light crimp and remove the ringed "bell" from the mouth of your brass that is leftover from your original expansion. You don't want to obturate the bullet in this step, merely nudge the brass in a bit so it will chamber easily without gumming up your action. Too much crimp is bad, too little crimp is bad, juuuust right is good. Redding makes the best crimp dies but Lee is more than adequate.
I hope this helps!
ED: You will also probably want some loading blocks, a funnel, a primer tray, and a few other accoutrements that make things easier as well, but they aren't strictly speaking necessary. Redding dies come with a loading tray feature built into the die box for example so just keep convenience tools in mind as you shop.
I prefer single stage loading to progressive loading so I will give single stage advice:
First you're going to need to know what you're trying to load and how to load it so you need a Loading Manual (Lee or Lyman is best)
Next you're going to need to acquire brass to load, powder to load, bullets to load, and primers. If you want you can just use whatever brass you have on hand, but the book data in the Lyman book will list specific model number and manufacturer brass, primers, and bullets for loads so you can use the exact laboratory spec if you want to have maximum confidence. I recommend doing official loads with 100% sanctioned parts at least for your first 100 shells.
Now that you know what you want to load and have the components you'll want to prepare your reloading press and setup your dies. You'll learn more about the dies in the following steps and depending on the press you select the steps to set them up for your press will vary. Generally speaking you want to make sure that your dies are set in the press at a height where they press perfectly flush with the shell holder during the period of greatest cam-over on your presses stroke. Watch some youtube videos to learn more about how to do this just right. I personally use a Forster Co-ax press so my shell holder is integral to the press, but other presses require a shell holder that is paired to the caliber you seek to reload.
Once your press is setup you'll need to get your brass in spec and make sure your primer pocket is ready for a fresh primer with a sizing and de-priming die to size and, if it's already fired brass, de-prime your cases and prepare them to reload. I recommend a de-priming & sizing die from Redding if you want the best, or Lee if you prefer the most affordable.
Depending on the cartridge you're loading you might need to trim your brass at this point, but since you're loading 40 you shouldn't need to so I won't go into details on this step. If you reload for a revolver or something just be aware that you can't reload indefinitely without trimming.
Once your brass is properly sized with an empty primer pocket and a correct case length you're going to want to expand your case mouths to properly receive a bullet with an expander die from Redding if you want the best, or Lee if you prefer the most affordable.
If you're using old brass, you will probably want to clean your brass before loading a new cartridge. You can use a dry tumbler with walnut or corn cob media, or a wet tumbler with stainless steel media. Frankford Arsenal and Thumler make good wet tumblers which is my preferred method.
Once your brass is clean and expanded you're going to need a way to prime your cases. You can hand prime, on-press prime, or off-press prime. Depending on what press you get you can hopefully prime on press, but there are stand-alone priming machines and hand priming machines available as well. There are many good ways to prime so just find one that you like best. I on-press prime with a Forster Co-ax press.
Once properly sized, expanded, and primed your cases and ready for powder and you're going to need a way to charge your cases. That means either powder scoopers, a powder thrower, or a powder trickler. (I believe that Lee makes the best scoops, and Redding makes the best powder thrower and powder trickler while Lee makes the most affordable)
To ensure you're getting the right amount of powder you're going to need a way to weigh your charges, and that means a beam scale or a digital scale. I like the MyWeigh brand digital scales, but if you're on a budget go for Frankford Arsenal.
Once you get the precisely measured and correct amount of powder in the case you're ready to seat the bullet with your seater die. Make sure you carefully adjust this die in small increments to set the right depth without going too far! Redding makes very high quality seating dies, but Lee is more affordable.
You're going to need to make sure you aren't going too far and are in fact seating your bullets to the proper depth in the case using a set of calipers. Mitutoyo makes the finest measuring devices known to man, but Frankford Arsenal will do.
If you do load one too far, you'll need to pull the bullet and try loading it with powder and seating the bullet again using a bullet puller kinetic hammer or collet die. Both work well but the collet die is much better for large volumes of pulls. Frankford Arsenal makes a good hammer and Hornady or RCBS make good collet dies (but be sure the collet die works in your press design before buying one, they aren't compatible with all presses)
Now that your cartridge is fully assembled the final step is to use your crimp die to apply a light crimp and remove the ringed "bell" from the mouth of your brass that is leftover from your original expansion. You don't want to obturate the bullet in this step, merely nudge the brass in a bit so it will chamber easily without gumming up your action. Too much crimp is bad, too little crimp is bad, juuuust right is good. Redding makes the best crimp dies but Lee is more than adequate.
I hope this helps!
ED: You will also probably want some loading blocks, a funnel, a primer tray, and a few other accoutrements that make things easier as well, but they aren't strictly speaking necessary. Redding dies come with a loading tray feature built into the die box for example so just keep convenience tools in mind as you shop.
Hooda Thunkit
Member
Not to beat a dead horse, but....
I've been reloading since around 1987. I'm still waiting on the "saving money" part.
Ain't that the truth.
Taurus 617 CCW
Member
I pretty much do single stage reloading for all calibers including handgun. I am not a high-volume reloader and do it for the enjoyment and relaxation value. I found (for myself) its best to start with a basic kit to get your basic skills down. Along the way you will find little gizmos that make life nice and will adopt some into your setup. Good luck and have fun!
Ej3
Member
- Joined
- May 6, 2017
- Messages
- 114
Same here. I started using Hornady's Lock-N-Load Classic Ammo Reloading Press kit. I like the powder measure that came with the kit. It also came with a loading manual. This is the only manual I have, as many powder and bullet manufacturers have online data available.
You can download the Western Powders Handloading Guide (Ed 7.0) for free and it has a great reloading basics section. And the Oregon Trail Bullet Company has a free manual download that has a Reloading 101 section (Chapter 1).
I personally like removing primers using a Frankford Arsenal Platinum Series Hand DePrimer Tool, cleaning the primer pockets with a Hornady Primer Pocket Cleaner, and then sonic cleaning before sizing. I also prefer hand priming using the Frankford Arsenal Platinum Series Perfect Seat Hand Priming Tool.
MauriceSam
Member
Lots of great response to initial question. One thing for certain is true. Everyone has opinions about the brand that is the"BEST". Consider this, of the most popular manufacturers offering reloading components, ALL will load ammunition that is safe, accurate,etc. As long as you follow directions and recommendations for components and load development, you should be fine. It can be frustrating to spend lots of money on supplies and realize it's more than you want to get into. As others have stated, a good manual to start, then make purchases slowly as you get more comfortable reloading. Add to your list of needs as you really need and understand how they will help you accomplish the end result. I started with Lyman manual in 1986 and Lee single stage C press loading .38 special with the help and coaching of a very knowledgeable friend. He started me with Unique powder, and suggested I get comfortable with one powder and refine my process before trying to load all sorts of stuff with different powders,etc so I could establish good technique and get comfortable with what I was doing. I now load multiple calibers rifle/handgun and have upgraded equipment as I saw a real need. I am addicted to reloading now. Enjoy, go slow, spend wisely, and be safe.
JFrank
Member
Reloading 9 mm Ammo is about like working for a dollar an hour
Sorry but true
for me on my Lee 4 hole, its more like $18/hour
I'm going to assert (guess) that very few reloaders are in it ONLY for the cost savings. Yet so frequently the topic of "Is reloading <x> worth our time?" comes up. Then there becomes a big long discussion about what our time is worth.
In what other hobby do we allocate a cost for our time? "Boy - that bike riding hobby is so expensive! I could be working!". Or "I'm considering not going hunting - because when I factor in the cost of my time the meat is just too expensive."
If someone says they don't want to take the *time* to reload <x> because commercially it's so inexpensive - I totally get that. "I'd rather do this other thing than load." But for some reason us reloaders tend to wrap that into "It's not worth my time." Even when I was working I *never* chose to not work in order to reload. Or took vacation just to reload. The incremental tradeoff I did in activities and reloading all involved things I wasn't going to be paid for: Watching a movie. Doing a project around the house. Reading a book. Spending time in reloading forums.
When I'm reloading 9mm on my single stage press (as an example) I'm not working for a low wage - I'm having fun....and as a distant aside I happen to save a very very small amount of money.
In what other hobby do we allocate a cost for our time? "Boy - that bike riding hobby is so expensive! I could be working!". Or "I'm considering not going hunting - because when I factor in the cost of my time the meat is just too expensive."
If someone says they don't want to take the *time* to reload <x> because commercially it's so inexpensive - I totally get that. "I'd rather do this other thing than load." But for some reason us reloaders tend to wrap that into "It's not worth my time." Even when I was working I *never* chose to not work in order to reload. Or took vacation just to reload. The incremental tradeoff I did in activities and reloading all involved things I wasn't going to be paid for: Watching a movie. Doing a project around the house. Reading a book. Spending time in reloading forums.
When I'm reloading 9mm on my single stage press (as an example) I'm not working for a low wage - I'm having fun....and as a distant aside I happen to save a very very small amount of money.
JFrank
Member
After you spent how much in initial cost ?
JFrank
Member
I don’t reload to save money, I reload because I have to
kmw1954
Member
So does that mean we should all stop doing it?
I've been doing this for a while and I have yet to find anyone that is willing to pay me for reloading so even $1.00 per hour is more then I am making now.
Legionnaire
Contributing Member
I thought “saving money” was the rationale offered to SWMBO.
JFrank
Member
Not at all”
But just for Drill count all the $ for all the equipment to reload your first round, then calculate /estimate how many you’ll need to reload including components and testing to off set the difference from just buying 9 mm pistol rounds .
I’ll need to take off my shoes to count any further
but I’m sure you understand what I’m saying.I reload rifle rounds because I have to,
I told my wife when I started that I would save money. ( I do save on rifle Ammo)
Not sure if I’ve broken even yet!
But I certainly have enjoyed the journey..
J
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