Steel ammo (Wolf) for my DPMS?

[David007]

Bought the DPMS Panther from Buds.

this is my 1st rifle. I've heard that you shouldnt buy steel ammo for handguns and stick to brass. How about for a AR-15?

walmart sells Federal .223 100rounds for $40. $0.40/round.
i'm used to $19 for 550 .22lr which is like $0.03/round.

then i see wolf .223 for $.18/round. but here are the specs:
Russian WPA (Wolf Performance Ammunition), 55grn full metal jacketed bullet, polymer coated steel case, and non-corrosive berdan primer.

your thoughts?

 

[lencac]

I have a Colt Match H-Bar. I have literally shot thousands of rounds through it to the point I wore out the first barrel. With known surplus, commercial or my handloads it has never had a hang-up. Except the one time I tried Wolf steel case ammo. It didn't even get through one magazine before it jammed with a case stuck in the chamber requiring a wooden dowel to know it out.
Stay away from that junk .............. IMHO

 

[HavelockLEO]

I would check your warranty info, some AR manufacturers warranties are voided if you run steel cased ammo in thier products.
On a personal note I wont run steel cased in any of my AR's, always had function issues with it.

 

[Chopdoktor]

Like Lencac, I too, have shot thousands (6k+) through my AR (Spikes lower, OPS-4 side-charging upper, Bushmaster 14.5" barrel, carbine length gas system). However, unlike Lencac, I use Wolf almost exclusively, and my AR has fed, fired, extracted and ejected at least 99% of those. The only failures I ever have with Wolf can be attributed to the magazine, except 3 occasions where the rim of the case was marred by my extractor claw. I absolutely would not own a 'military' type gun that cannot function on steel case if necessary. Feed your gun what runs in it, and what fits in your budget. It's pretty worthless to have a nice top-shelf AR, but you never shoot it because it has some pet diet of filet-mignon ammo that it needs to function. What is better, is that you enjoy your gun and develop your shooting skills over the course of many thousands of rounds. With the savings steel case ammo allows, I can afford such a luxury. I am in no way bashing brass case or those who will only use brass case. I'm just saying that if your gun runs steel, don't be afraid to go with it- unless you want to pay almost twice the price for something that gets you nearly identical results for the average shooter's skill level.

 

[Carter]

The DPMS upper I had cycled wolf, tula, brown bear, and silver bear perfectly. If your AR won't cycle steel cased ammo something is wrong with it, not the ammo.

IMHO steel cased ammo is perfect for target practice out to 150 yards. It is reasonably accurate and cheap, which means more practice.

I'd rather practice more with steel cased than less with brass cased.

That said, I'm not a bench rest shooter.

Edit: It also cycles perfectly with my BCM and my friends BCM.

 

[Skyshot]

I have to agree, Steel cases are not soft as brass, plus they have a varnish coat on them that flakes off in the chamber and on the bolt face. I won't run steel in anything I own. I've seen too many broke firing pins and chipped extractors from others who run steel cases.

 

[Steve in PA]

Oh please stop with the nonsense!!!!

Nothing "flakes" off. Carbon build up is what you get if you shoot a lot of steel cased ammo. That is why they sell chamber brushes.

Broken firing pins??? From what??? Chipped extractors??? Since the "steel" in steel cases is softer than the extractor, if you are getting broken extractors, you have junk extractors.

Wolf is good plinking ammo. I don't soley shoot Wolf, but I shoot plenty of it every year.

 

[wnycollector]

I have 6-7K rounds of Silver and Brown Bear through four AR's w/o any incident. I plan on picking up some of the new WPA ammo to see if it runs as well as "Bear" ammo since it is made at the same facility.

 

[C-grunt]

It goes on a case by case basis. You wont know until you shoot it through your rifle. From what I have seen malfunctions can also be due to the Wolf being a bit underpowered.

Looking at guns that do run steel cased stuff well it seems that ones with a proper 5.56 chamber tend to run it better IME.

 

[Sky]

Check aimsurplus they had Silver Bear for $4.29 oooops sold out now!! But they do have Wolf for $4.19 for 20. There are match type rifles that will not shoot steal case ammo due to their chamber dimensions being tight. You will always hear and maybe talk to people who swear the polymer gums up their guns after repeatedly shooting it. I do know a gun range that rents ARs and he will not let someone shoot polymer ( Wolf ) through his rentals; his guns his choice. I have shot Wolf and not had any problems but I do prefer Silver Bear for no particular reason.

 

[okiewita40]

I sure hope that my SKS never finds out that steel case ammo is bad. I would think that a reliable weapon should run with any brand ammo you try to run through it.

 

[benEzra]

If your rifle has a 5.56mm chamber (preferably chrome lined), it will probably function fine with steel-case. My Rock River middy likes Wolf and Tula fine.

 

[Doxiedad]

Anyone have experience with the S&W M&P15 with steel ammo?

 

[wrench]

I've shot quite a bit of Wolf, and Silver Bear through my DPMS, never a problem. Wolf is pretty accurate in mine, as well as cheap.

 

[wally]

Anyone have experience with the S&W M&P15 with steel ammo?

No problems with mine, its actually never shot anything but steel cased ammo during the two years I've had it.

A friend I helped shop, who decided he'd rather have a DPMS and a Glock 19 instead of only a "better" AR.

He's had no issues with brass cased or steel cased ammo.

 

[Evergreen]

I just asked the same question not long ago about this same topic. You are going to stir up a big debate, but the general consensus is that steel ammo will not scratch up or harm your chamber. Also, some of the better Russian brands shoot as good as many of the cheap plinking brass ammo. I no longer can afford to shoot the brass alone, so I will definitely be stocking up on some Brown and Silver Bear ammo to do my plinking. At like, $0.15-$0.19 a round, it seems like a good investment. I have an expensive LMT AR-15, so just to let you know, I'm wiling to risk it. After doing a bit of research, I have found most of those who hate steel ammo to have no real concrete argument as to why its bad, except that it is dirty. From my experience, even cheap brass ammo is a bit on the dirty side.

 

[nastynatesfish]

I bought a bunch of tula from cheaperthandirt for 115 for 500 rounds shipped. Never had one issue with my sportical upper. It shoots perfectly fine

 

[bubbacrabb]

I shoot the heck out of it. However, I have heard not that I know if its true but I can see it. Dont shoot brass after shooting steel in the same outting. I guess that laquer finish can get in the chamber, and when you run a brass round thru it can get stuck. I can agree that is possible. Sense brass expands more, and if the chamber is sticky that would make sense. I shoot TULU a lot cause i got it on sale for 3.50 a box. Now I shoot a lot of brass, but thats cause I started reloading and can make em pretty cheap. Shoot away buddy.

 

[Doxiedad]

@wally thanks for the input

 

[jleyring]

I have a Bushmaster 20" and i have shot many of Wolf rounds through it and i have never had a problem. I prefer Remington casings just because i can reload them but if i want to have a fun day at the range for cheep i have no problem putting a few wolf rounds through it. I just clean my rifle after.

 

[lmccrock]

The DPMS rifle manuals I read say that use of any steel case ammo voids the warranty. That said, Wolf should run. I run Silver Bear (Zn plated steel case), though, more than Wolf, and both run fine.

For a new rifle, buy some brass case ammo, probably Federal XM193, and just pay more than Wolf initially to get it broken in. I also have good luck with PMC Bronze 223. If something goes wrong, you can tell them it was decent ammo not on their banned list.

 

[HD_Ride]

I often wondered about shooting Wolf ammo myself. Basically what it has come down to for me is that I shouldn't shoot Wolf in my Mini14 (5.56mm) and my Kel-Tel SU16 could pretty much shoot anything. I have not tried Wolf becasue in another thread someone said when the rifle heats up the coating DOES come off so I've stayed away from it.

For the price I'd like to try it in the SU16 if someone could say without doubt that it will not harm the rifles down the road. For me I don't think heat will be that big of an issue becasue I usually alternate guns at the range and I'm only using 10 rd mags. Supposedly Silver Bear is the best of breed of the cheap ammo. I bought a 500 rds of Silver Bear and it was flawless in my SU16.

 

[colt1911fan]

had an extractor break then bought a higher grade extractor and haven't had a problem running that stuff since I've found the the zinc plated steel cased rounds tend to do better the the polymer coated ones

 

[Sky]

The deal about shooting brass after a day of shooting steel should be said again. Many mistake the crud (residue) left over in the barrel for something it is not. Steel expands differently and does not form a seal like brass so you "can" get more build up in the chamber. You shoot "X" rounds of steel then pop in you brass filled mag with out cleaning the chamber (depending on how tight your chamber is to begin with) you might be asking for a FTE or stuck casing. Never has happened to me because I either run steel or brass first then steel; never steel then brass.

There are many manufactures who say do not run steel or it voids the warranty; just check your paperwork if it is gonna bother you. The only ones I have talked to about "why" have said you can get away with a higher percentage of no damage to your chamber if it is chrome lined but do not recommend it in one that is not lined.

As many have figured out before me, "the money saved over the life time of you weapon will be enough to re-barrel/chamber or purchase an entirely new weapon.

I do have two match grade chambered ARs (both are not a POS) I will not shoot steel in because I get FTE with both of them after the first or second round fired with steel. The other ARs (4) have never given me a problem. If you decide to go with steel and a few thousand rounds later the extractor breaks then replace it and keep on shooting you are money ahead.

 

[christcorp]

Some say that this topic stirs debates. There is NO DEBATE HERE.

1. The only way to tell if your rifle like steel case ammo, is to try it.
2. If your rifle has a problem with steel case ammo, the problem is with your rifle. Not the ammo.
3. If your rifle has a problem, try a different brand of ammo. All steel ammo is NOT the same. Just like all brass ammo isn't the same.
4. If your rifle is the problem, it doesn't mean you need to pay to fix it. Simply live with it, and realize you have to spend more money on ammo.
5. Don't rationalize your precious rifle and say that it's perfect and it must be the steel case ammo that's the problem. IT'S NOT!
6. The polymer, lacquer, or Zinc plating isn't peeling off. As mentioned, steel doesn't expand/seal as well as brass. It allows more carbon/powder residue to get in the chamber. CLEAN THE DAMN THING more often.
7. You're NOT going to break an extractor, ejector, firing pin, etc... because of steel case ammo. If one of those break, it was going to break anyway. The steel case ammo is softer than any metal on your rifle.

See; no debate! No argument!

P.S. I bought a new M&P15-OR for christmas. I now have about 4,000 rounds of ammo through it in 6 months. 3,500+ of that ammo is steel case. Barnaul, MFS, silver bear, brown bear, tula, herters,and wolf.