Suggest a target 38/357?

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brewer12345

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I would love to own a model 14 smith and go back to the heyday of bullseye shooting, but my snooping around leads me to believe that nice examples are nearing a thousand bucks. With my eldest starting high school and me frantically trying to pad the college fund, that sort of expenditure just isn't happening. So what are my alternatives? I don't care if the brand is off the run (I own and like Baikal shotguns) and used/out of production is fine, but I do want good accuracy potential, at least a 6 inch barrel, a decent trigger, and a gun that will hold up to a bunch of wadcutters and similar loads that are on the high end of standard pressure 38 special. Does this sound like a Smith model 10? Something else? 357 would be nice simply because it gives more flexibility, but not necessary.
 
CPE is probably right, you can find a clean 686 for less than a nice K38. An 8 3/8" underlug barrel will weigh a ton, not for me; although I am going to have the long barrel put back on my .357.
Six inch M&Ps are nearly as scarce on the market as K38s, although not so expensive. With fixed sights, a good zero is chancy, and the hog wallow rear is hard to pick up, for my old eyes, anyhow. Shop L frames. Or Rugers.
 
6" 586 or 686.
6" GP100 with the Gold bead/V-notch sights installed. The standard ones are not suitable for target work.
6" Taurus 66 is a possibility, but might be hit or miss (pun intended) as to accuracy. (Though my son's 4" is fine out to 50 yards for hunting.)
 
Check out the Rugers. Gp100 comes to mind but my personal favorite is a security six blue six inch. For me it has great balance and shooting 38s are almost like 22s.
 
Check out the Rugers. Gp100 comes to mind but my personal favorite is a security six blue six inch. For me it has great balance and shooting 38s are almost like 22s.

I have a security 6 in 4" flavor. Love the gun, but can't get it to stop leading with my favorite DEWC load (or anything else). So I am kind of thinking a purpose-built 38 might be the ticket.
 
A friend shot every .38 wadcutter he could find for PPC. He could not eliminate leading, even with some very accurate loads. I agree a Smith will likely be smoother than a Ruger.
 
New 686s can be found for a tad over $700 OTD if one looks around. You'd have a hard time wanting more for the money.
 
There's a model 19 with a 4" barrel out there that I shoot about as well double action as I can single, and I shoot it in single better than anything else I've shot. A nice K frame is awful sweet. That said, a Dan Wesson is worth serious consideration.
 
I have a security 6 in 4" flavor. Love the gun, but can't get it to stop leading with my favorite DEWC load (or anything else).
We should be able to solve that for you. Bring the question to the reloading section. I love my 4" Security Six, but have not tried any lead in it.

A 586/686 is a good suggestion. I paid 300 something bucks for my Model 14, but that was along time ago.
 
I'd vote for a 686 in 8 3/8" or 6". The 6" would probably wind up being cheaper. the 8 3/8" I've seen lately have had high asking prices. I have a 6", 7" and 8 3/8" and I shoot the 7" & 8" the most. I personally like the full lug especially with full power .357 loads. If weight is a concern, then go for a Model 66 in 6". Take your time and can probably find one in the $600-650 range. I prefer stainless for guns I shoot a lot. More durable than blue and much easier to clean. I've heard a few people saying the Taurus Tracker is an accurate gun and you could pick one of these up new for less than $500 but the action will never compare to a Smith and resale value would be a killer if you decided to sell.
 
The S&W 686 was specifically designed to go toe to toe with the Colt Python. The action of the 686 is superb and the gun shoots 125-grain and 148-158-grain ammunition equally as well, while Ruger's .357s tend to shoot 158-grain better. The 686 no-dash is about the best .357 I've ever seen roll off a production line. It's extraordinarily accurate. I assume that today's models are just as accurate. The Ruger GP-100 is a reliable gun, very sturdy and accurate, but it's just not in the same league. It's one reason I recommend people find a good Ruger Security-Six if they're looking for a decent .357 Magnum they can use for camping, hiking or fishing.

For competition or long-range use, the 686 is about the best .357 Magnum made today. And I'd say that even if the Colt Python were still being made. The Python was very, very good, but it wasn't better than the 686. The hand/pawl of the gun tended to be smallish, which made the gun gun go out of time quickly because of the wear. It also was narrow at the top of the grip where the hand was largest, and largest at the bottom of the grip where the hand was smallest. This was fine if you are an orangutan, but not so much if you're a human being!

S&W_686_6inch.jpg

S&W_686_6in.jpg

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The no-dash is still my favorite, but the modern rendition of the gun is
most likely just as accurate and well made!

 
We should be able to solve that for you. Bring the question to the reloading section. I love my 4" Security Six, but have not tried any lead in it.

A 586/686 is a good suggestion. I paid 300 something bucks for my Model 14, but that was along time ago.

Honestly, I have been over that one several times including lots of quality time and money with a competent smith and to no avail. I am quite frustrated than my favorite revolver will not shoot cast without making a mess, so for now I wish to table the issue and move on. It shoots Berry's plated DEWC very, very well, so that is what it will get. I have been thinking about a longer barrel for a while, so that is what I am looking for.
 
Dan Wessons are outstanding target guns. New ones are extremely expensive, but I bet you could find a used one in your price range.

There's a lot of them out there with 8" barrels. The barrels are also readily interchangeable so you can easily install a long one.
 
If I were buying it would be a 6" M586 for a magnum or if buying a dedicated . 38 Special it would be a M15. The later M15's were available in both 6" and 8 3/8" barrels.

The M15 is a very accurate .38 Special K frame similar to the M14 so you get what you're looking for but at a lesser price.
 
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A Python doesn't fit the OP's budget.

To say the 686 was designed to go toe to toe with the Python is certainly debatable. If that is the case, Smith lagged behind a long time before bringing a contender to the market considering the Python was produced 25 years before the first 686.

As far as the Python going out of time, yes it happens. Of course, it also happens to other brands, too. Does it happen to Pythons as often and as quickly as people speak of? I don't think so. I believe the alleged problems are greatly exaggerated...I have a Python or two, have had other Pythons, and have shot thousands of rounds out of them. I have never had a timing issue. I know other Python shooters. Never heard of them with a problem, either.
 
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I'll just discuss the ones I own...

This is a S&W Model 14. I got it barely-at-all used for something like $600. There was some trading involved, and the LGS owner has become something of a friend, but I think that's what he would have given it to me for in straight-up cash. The problem he was having was that it was sitting in his case for several months with no offers. No one seems to be very interested in long-barreled revolvers anymore (8.4"). I got it around six months or a year ago. It's a very good shooter. The trigger still wasn't even broken in yet. I doubt if the original owner put more than 100 rounds through it.

 
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Can we just pretend this is a K38 Masterpiece? It's really a K22. It's from the early 1950's, IIRC. It has the best DA trigger I've ever felt on any revolver. I got it for a little over $400 a couple of years ago (GunBroker). I'm assuming the winning bid was so low because the finish is imperfect and it has aftermarket grips. It's probably the most accurate DA revolver I've ever shot. If the 38 special version is as good, and as reasonably priced, it would be my first choice.

 
A couple of years ago or so I didn't have a DA 6" 357 that I liked a lot. I stumbled across this Old Model Taurus 66. I didn't pay much for it, something like $300... or maybe even less? I'd owned a couple of other Taurus 66's from the late 80's and early 90's, and they had been quite satisfactory. This one is from the mid 80's and has a slightly different action, with some kind of hammer safety instead of the transfer bar. The trigger is extremely nice, almost as good as my K22. The sights are large and easy to see. It's way more accurate than I am. I feel like I really got lucky with this one, but then again, it's my third Model 66 and they've all been good. I don't think aftermarket grips are available, but that's as close as I can come to a complaint about it. It's a very fine revolver.

 
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I'm not sure from reading the OP if Brewer wants a revolver to actually compete with, or if he just wants one with that kind of accuracy. If speed of reloading isn't important, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend my Ruger Blackhawks for accuracy. I have several and they're all good. This is my 357 magnum version. IIRC, the barrel is 6.5". It's from the early 70's... maybe 1973? It's young enough to have the transfer bar. It looks like it's been shot a fair amount. I won it for a $299 auction maybe two or three years ago. If it's less accurate than my DA revolvers, I'm not a good enough shooter to tell. These are rugged revolvers. I can easily imagine someone changing out the springs and shooting it just fine 50 years from now. I always do well with the SA plow-handle grips. YMMV.

Notice I haven't recommended buying a new revolver. I don't really buy new handguns anymore. I've had almost no problems with the used ones I've bought. I seem to find a lot of them, revolvers in particular, that weren't ever shot very much. Why pay twice as much when the old ones are (IMHO) typically built better anyway?

 
Since you said you only want to shoot .38, the Model 15 would suit your neeeds ideally.
 
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