Tale of a S&W 32 Double Action

I am still perplexed why the hammer will hold against heavy thumb pressure without the mainspring, but with the mainspring it does not hold to even the slightest thumb pressure. I disassembled for 38 DA to measure the single cock Notch depth and compare it to the 32 DA single cock notch. Each measures approximately 0.0150". Reassembling both the 32 and the 38 so close together in time I was able to observe that the parts in the 38 are much crisper than the parts in the 32. Assembly is simple on the 32. It is difficult on the 38. Recall the 38 functions almost perfectly. When the action cycles, there are three distinct clicks as the parts move into place. When I cycle for 32, what clicks there are, are muted. Or non-existent. Both guns were assembled using a mix of new and old parts. I think I just got lucky on the 38 and the parts mated quite well. I do not think I was as lucky on the 32. As an example, the 32 Hammer can be installed with the rear sear spring installed. There's enough clearance to make it happen. When I try and do the same thing on the 38 there is not enough clearance between the rear Sear and the hammer.

I think what I'm dealing with on the 32 DA is a stacking of of worn dimensions by using some old parts. I have now ordered a new rear Sear, rear sear spring so that we will be dealing with all new parts. Hopefully this will alleviate the issue with the single cock notch not holding. It does not appear that the single cock notch needs to be recut.

One thing that has been driven home to me in this most recent foray into tinkering is that I am no gunsmith. I fit Parts when they won't physically go in place or ones that obviously don't function properly. But I don't have the knowledge to fit pieces for best operation.

Basically, I am an assembler of parts, and a switcher of parts that don't work. I certainly am not a gunsmith. All of the fitting I do is basically to fit in place, not necessarily function well.

If I am lucky the new parts will be here on Saturday. We will see if new parts help or not. If they don't, I am out of my skill set trying to make this 32 DA function perfectly. Maybe if I stare at it more I'll learn more.
 
You may a have rounded edge or the angle is not correct, allowing the sear/hammer to roll off. Angle and squareness is paramount to fitting hammer/sears.

I suspect that is true. I just don’t have the confidence that I have the knowledge/skill to make it correct without making it worse. That And I don’t have the tools. For that matter I’m not sure what tool would be used.
 
Weeell if you really want to! Brownell's sells some triangular honing stones for that kind of work and Harbor Freight sells needle files that are both steel and diamond coated. For that kind of precision work you definitely need practice, which you already know.
 
I’ve been known to go overboard on things. And this is another one of those cases. I bought another parts kit that had both a hammer/stirrup and a new barrel assembly. The initial intent was to see if another hammer might make the single cock hold better. But the fact that it had a decent looking barrel assembly didn’t hurt.
B246D476-6B22-40B3-A7A3-B3599CCB1517.png

Paid way way too much for it. If the barrel assembly is in good shape I’ll use it and cut down the original barrel to remove the broken sight rib and have a two barrel set including a snub nose version. The stampings on the original barrel are in poor shape and I don’t mind filing them off. I could never make them look good as deteriorated as they are.

Unfortunately it didn’t ship until today (Wednesday) and it is unlikely it will arrive until next week.

the original grips are worth $50 and if the hammer helps it’ll be worth what I paid for it.
 
Fortunately, the parts kit is scheduled to arrive today. This will give me the 3-day weekend to Tinker. While researching the internet I came across the following tidbit of information on the development of the double actions. The specific reference is to the third model 38 double action. But I wonder if this change didn't also occur on the 32 double action. And my issues with holding on the single cock notch are not related to a mismatch in parts:

From The Following website: https://sportsmansvintagepress.com/read-free/smith-wesson-hand-guns/smith-wesson-double-action/

In the Third Model .38, the location of the latch notch of the rear sear was changed to give a lighter trigger pull when the weapon was used single-action. Although this required a corresponding change of the full-cock notch on the hammer, the two models are hard to identify except by reference to the serial numbers.

The parts kit that will arrive today has another hammer. Maybe I'll get lucky in this hammer will work. Proof again, that I'm nothing more than a parts swapper and not a gunsmith. I think I like the term "Tinkerer" instead of parts swapper. But, if it works!
 
As noted above, the second parts kit arrived yesterday, Saturday. Teh new parts kit contained he barrel/cylinder, mainspring, hammer w/stirrup, trigger, grips and pins/screws. Why they didn't salvage the cylinder stop and rear sear I dont' know. They pulled the pins. Whatever.

The barrel does fit and latch tight. It also works with the frame/trigger/hand/cylinder stop I already had in the frame. So it turns out to be a drop in replacement. And now I don't have to repair the older barrel where the rib was broken. The new barrel is a 3 1/2" instead of the 3" of the original. And I really prefer the 3" barrel, but I have what I have. plus now I can cut down the original barrel to remove the damged area and have a two barrel set. Way cool as far as I'm concerned.

But that wasn't' the real reason to get the second parts kit. I had two hammers above the broken one that came with the original revolver. Buit I couldn't get neither one to hold at full cock. So I was hoping that a new hammer would Help solve that issue. I also bought a new rear sear spring from Jack First hoping it would help hold the revolver at full cock. But it did not. And I figured out why. Although the sear surface on the hammer is only 0.100" tall, the ability to hold on the full cock notch is apparently a function of how much spring pressure the rear sear spring applies to the rear sear. I bought a new rear sear spring and although it fit as it came I had to 'curve' the spring to apply a lot more spring pressure that it originally provided. I also leanred that where the rear sear spring lands on the rear sear is very important. Too close to the pin it pivots on and a lot of spring force is lost. the added spring pressure got the sear to hold on the hammer but it developed another problem once the sear held. When fired in single action the front sear, that controls the double action trigger/action, was not moving out of the way of the hammer when the single cock sear (rear sear) was released. The result was that the hammer would stay in contact with the front sear and drive it, and the trigger it is attached to, down with the hammer fall.

I I started to fit the new rear sear to adjust when the trigger 'tripped' the rear sear. But before I finished I swapped one of the original rear sears to the new hammer and new rear sear spring and it not only held, but the issue of the front sear catching on the hammer went away. I really wanted to use the new rear sear as it had a much 'crisper' sear surface than either of the existing rear sears I had. I think one day I'll finish fitting the new rear sear just to see if it makes the action a bit more 'crisp'. I noted that the new sear held the half cock notch much better than the existing rear sears. But it works as it is now. Here are a couple of orientation pictures to you can see what I've described as well as the diagram from the animation

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parts.jpg

Trigger parts outside the gun
Trigger Parts 2.jpg

and finally, another poor indoor video showing function. One cylinder wouldn't accept a fired case. I polished that cylinder out.
EDIT: I BUTCHERED THE UPLOAD OF THE FUNCITON VIDEO. I'LL KEEP THIS ONE AS IT SHOWS THE FRONT SEAR MOVING AWAY FROM THE HAMMER IN TIME FOR THE REAR SEAR TO RELEASE.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/4CdJRFzXMJcRv2bv6

Here is the function video.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/HBAxjLAUVQW3Keu17
 
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Range day finally arrived.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xeMNFPBASHhH1PnE8

This is the same video posted in the Black Powder forum titled 'Black Powder Cartridge Range Day '.

Previously I've had luck loading 32 S&W with 0.310 round ball on top of a full case of 3f for short range trips. And that is what I'm shooting here. I don't know why but this load tends to be very accurate. But I find that the light ball doesn't produce enough pressure to re-seat the primer. I had a couple lock up the revolver. I'm in the process of ordering an appropriate lead round nose bullet.

Overall I'm happy with the results. It isn't as accurate as my S&W 32 Single action but that may improve with the proper bullets.
 
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EDIT: I tried to access the videos from another device. Apparently the links don’t work. I’ll try to fix that later today.
 
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