I would heat it with a torch, swage it, and let it cool naturally.
That I can do. I think I can do that without Jackrabbit's special tool. Though I'm kind of interested in seeing how the tool works.
Thanks.
I would heat it with a torch, swage it, and let it cool naturally.
This tool is made by a friend of mine, Dale Drew...
I just recently acquired a fixture to stretch hands, I really don't like to stretch one as for me actually welding up the end works best. If the hand is only a couple of thousands short then stretching it makes sense to me. For anyone interested my bench is more or less clear if you have a revolver that you would like tuned or repaired.I spent the day yesterday cleaning up some unfinished business on a couple of projects. Some things just nag on me. While searching for an unrelated part I found another hand for my 38 DA. This one was 0.010" taller than the one that was in the revolver. And now it always makes it to lock up no matter how slowly the action is operated. This 120 plus year old firearm now functions as it did the day it was manufactured. There is a sence of satisfaction knowing there isn't anything that doesn't function right because of its age. Lord knows I've got my share of firearms that have that 'quirk' A Savage 1915 pump 22 that I have to roll counterclockwise 30 degrees to reliably pump as an example. So for now I don't need to stretch my existing hand @Jackrabbit1957 . Though I do want to see how it works.
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMwuit4iqnxrUYnKL4TMG_cgwwA89MnPowjK7Bz
Let me know if this link doesn't work.
A short, poor video of today's success.
interesting work. I'd like one of those someday myself. this guys does a pretty detailed assembly. If I was working on that I'd end up watching a bunch of videos like this, I usually will skip around to look for exactly what I'm trying to figure out, but overall - he works the firearm and covers some details about some assembly tricks and how the parts look like they are supposed to fit and work. Smith & Wesson .38 DA/SA Top Break Disassembly and Reassembly Part 3 - YouTube
I don't know that firearm, but for a half cock or full cock for that matter as long as the hammer catches correctly and can not be pushed off with your thumb, like any revolver with a hammer, I don't think there is anything that needs fixing. If it works right, it works right.
I don't know that firearm, but for a half cock or full cock for that matter as long as the hammer catches correctly and can not be pushed off with your thumb, like any revolver with a hammer, I don't think there is anything that needs fixing. If it works right, it works right.
A fly is intended to prevent damage to the half cock notch. I personally have never seen one on a revolver. The fly should allow the hammer to engage the trigger at half cock but allow it to skip over the half cock notch as the hammer falls from full cock. As to the clicking sound at half cock when turning the cylinder, that is the tip of the hand sliding off the ratchet teeth at the rear of the cylinder. I don't know enough about your S&Ws to give a real educated answer on how the hand engages the ratchet. I think you should hear something as the cylinder is turned.
A fly is intended to prevent damage to the half cock notch. I personally have never seen one on a revolver. The fly should allow the hammer to engage the trigger at half cock but allow it to skip over the half cock notch as the hammer falls from full cock. As to the clicking sound at half cock when turning the cylinder, that is the tip of the hand sliding off the ratchet teeth at the rear of the cylinder. I don't know enough about your S&Ws to give a real educated answer on how the hand engages the ratchet. I think you should hear something as the cylinder is turned.
Is the "click" from the bolt dropping into the cylinder groove to lock the cylinder from turning?