jt1,
Thanks for carrying the torch on this one. I have switch out my J-frame grips to CTC 405's
Thanks for carrying the torch on this one. I have switch out my J-frame grips to CTC 405's
The 642 club
- Thread starter fiVe
- Start date
- Status
"642 Club Grip"
JT - Thanks for taking the point on this. I say lets get the letter moving towards submission to Hogue and see what kind of response it gets. We should know fairly soon if they will take a serious look as this or just give it a smile and a wink. Thanks again.
JT - Thanks for taking the point on this. I say lets get the letter moving towards submission to Hogue and see what kind of response it gets. We should know fairly soon if they will take a serious look as this or just give it a smile and a wink. Thanks again.
I think the letter to Hogue is great. I second the comment about speedloaders and also mentioning this thread and the numbers of individuals behind the request.
642 Club Grip
As much as I like the name "The 642 Club Grip," it alienates all other J-frame revolvers (and clones if they exist). Just something to think about.
As much as I like the name "The 642 Club Grip," it alienates all other J-frame revolvers (and clones if they exist). Just something to think about.
Dirtypacman
In your work with reloading for the 642, are you seeking practice ammo to approximate what you carry, or are you just looking for cheap and accurate practice ammo?
Just a thought, if you are looking for cheap and accurate: lead fodder will usually be cheaper than any plated bullet.
My normal practice round for the 642 is 148g BBWC. I also use Win. 231 and load it really light. This round has proven to be really accurate in my wife's 642 and in my M&P 340. The nice thing about going heavier with the bullet is that you can lighten up on the powder. The relationship between charge and round weight is nearly inverse. The most expensive component to reloading will usually be the brass, unless you can pick it up at the range for free. A lead bullet will be in the neighborhood of $.06 each, the primer approximately $.03 and the powder charge about $.02 (depends on what powder, Win. 231 is pretty cheap). So, not counting the case, you can easily reoad for .38sp at around $.11-$.12 per round.
I'm sure you could easily find 125g LSWC or FP or RP to approximate your carry round if that is what you are looking for.
I shoot a lot, about 250-500 rounds per week in some form or other, and my reloads sure save me a lot of money compared to store-bought ammo.
In your work with reloading for the 642, are you seeking practice ammo to approximate what you carry, or are you just looking for cheap and accurate practice ammo?
Just a thought, if you are looking for cheap and accurate: lead fodder will usually be cheaper than any plated bullet.
My normal practice round for the 642 is 148g BBWC. I also use Win. 231 and load it really light. This round has proven to be really accurate in my wife's 642 and in my M&P 340. The nice thing about going heavier with the bullet is that you can lighten up on the powder. The relationship between charge and round weight is nearly inverse. The most expensive component to reloading will usually be the brass, unless you can pick it up at the range for free. A lead bullet will be in the neighborhood of $.06 each, the primer approximately $.03 and the powder charge about $.02 (depends on what powder, Win. 231 is pretty cheap). So, not counting the case, you can easily reoad for .38sp at around $.11-$.12 per round.
I'm sure you could easily find 125g LSWC or FP or RP to approximate your carry round if that is what you are looking for.I shoot a lot, about 250-500 rounds per week in some form or other, and my reloads sure save me a lot of money compared to store-bought ammo.
Wow, the smaller grips but with a covered backstrap thing sure did take off. I never expected to see so much support for this when i mentioned it! The letter looks great. Ship it!
glassman
Member
got in under the wire
Jt..thanks for that post. I hand carried my form to the post office last saturday one day before the offer expired. I expected to wait for a few months before it arrived. I was amazed to see it in the mail today. Very nice bag. Thanks again for the post.
Man, that was fast. I waited right at a month to get my first bag, and I haven't received my second range bag yet.
________________
"Phydeaux, bad dog....no biscuit!"
________________
"Phydeaux, bad dog....no biscuit!"
X2 - I found out about the offer via this thread, and received my bag about 2-3 weeks after sending in the form. Thanks to the original poster for letting us know about this!
B'man, that's interesting.
A question: how does one judge "accuracy" of a rnd in a snubbie?
That is, say you're trying to evaluate some store bought v something you've loaded.
You go to the range with both or all rnds for comparison.
How do you compare them in a way that insures accurate, unbiased results?
With a rifle, you can sit and use bench supports for gun stability.
With the little mule, that's problematic.
So, how does one compensate to judge accuracy of a rnd making sure differences observed are not
statistical artifacts due to experimental error (e.g., I shook more when shooting 20 rnds of the second loading)?
In addition to suggestions for how to hold a J-frame during the test,
a discussion of the data being collected may be relevant.
For example, what parameters are being estimated?
* Maximum distance from center shot?
* Variance of distribution of rnds in a group around a center shot?
* Variance of angle of all rnds in a group around median shot?
What probability model(s) are assumed for data?
Normal (Gaussian)? Poisson? Gamma? Beta? Lognormal?
Nem (pollster, but looking to move up to
an experimental statistical analyst position)
DAdams
Member
Hello and Thanks Brassman
Yes im just looking for a quality but cheap load to do my plinking and practice.
With the cast lead I had a concern on the diameter of the bullet. What is the standard diameter that can be shot out of the 642 - the ones I always see selling are .358 but I could not find a recipe for them in my loading handbook.
Yes im just looking for a quality but cheap load to do my plinking and practice.
With the cast lead I had a concern on the diameter of the bullet. What is the standard diameter that can be shot out of the 642 - the ones I always see selling are .358 but I could not find a recipe for them in my loading handbook.
Sad to say it, but I think I'll be leaving this club. I've got my 340PD posted for sale right now. Here's the link in case someone wants to pick this little beauty up for a great price.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=306648
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=306648
Nem
There is no real scientific method to how I judge accuracy with a snub. I go to the rifle range, set a target up at 30 feet, use the rest that is available to rest my wrists on, no fancy pistol rest with the weapon locked down, and fire several cylinders full at separate targets and I'm done. With both the 642 and the M&P 340, staging the trigger each shot, all rounds are usually inside a baseball-size circle with WC's. And they make such purty liddle holes.
Now, if I don't use the rest and just fire 2-handed, the pattern will open up to about softball-sized. That's still pretty accurate for me. Of course, using my GP-100 at 30 feet will cause the groups to get smaller since it has a 6" sight radius.
I admit that I don't send very many factory rounds downrange except to occasionally practice with my Remington FBI carry rounds.
I think the real reason for your asking me about accuracy is to get me off-track about your response over on the M&P 340 Club thread. We've been trying to tell you for months now that YOU DO WANT ONE. And you'll end up with one. But you keep ignoring us.
There is no real scientific method to how I judge accuracy with a snub. I go to the rifle range, set a target up at 30 feet, use the rest that is available to rest my wrists on, no fancy pistol rest with the weapon locked down, and fire several cylinders full at separate targets and I'm done. With both the 642 and the M&P 340, staging the trigger each shot, all rounds are usually inside a baseball-size circle with WC's. And they make such purty liddle holes.
Now, if I don't use the rest and just fire 2-handed, the pattern will open up to about softball-sized. That's still pretty accurate for me. Of course, using my GP-100 at 30 feet will cause the groups to get smaller since it has a 6" sight radius.
I admit that I don't send very many factory rounds downrange except to occasionally practice with my Remington FBI carry rounds.
I think the real reason for your asking me about accuracy is to get me off-track about your response over on the M&P 340 Club thread. We've been trying to tell you for months now that YOU DO WANT ONE. And you'll end up with one. But you keep ignoring us.
Dirtypacman
The .358 diam. of the lead bullets is OK in the 642. Lead is softer and fills the rifling better than copper plating does. My understanding is that this better molding to the rifling is what causes pure lead bullets to be more accurate than plated bullets. I know I've read that somewhere, but if my memory is inaccurate, someone will call my hand here.
The .358 diam. of the lead bullets is OK in the 642. Lead is softer and fills the rifling better than copper plating does. My understanding is that this better molding to the rifling is what causes pure lead bullets to be more accurate than plated bullets. I know I've read that somewhere, but if my memory is inaccurate, someone will call my hand here.
Brassman Thank You:
Thats exactly what I needed to know - I had been looking at the .358 diameters but had only worked with .357 up to this point. I know I can save some real money buying the lead cast then plated bullets.
Off to the search to get a good price on em.
Thats exactly what I needed to know - I had been looking at the .358 diameters but had only worked with .357 up to this point. I know I can save some real money buying the lead cast then plated bullets.
Off to the search to get a good price on em.
Kinda like 135 v 158 gr, eh?
<laughs>
I've not only considered it, but done it. Several times (usually at the end of relationships). Benefited greatly.
IMO, should be required for citizenship. We'd be a better culture ...
<laughs>
Uh, oh; they're on to me.
grip
Hey Nem. and JT,
I like the idea of the grip project. I second the idea for the modification for the speed loaders.
When do ya'll expect to send in the request to Hogue.
e'trode
Hey Nem. and JT,
I like the idea of the grip project. I second the idea for the modification for the speed loaders.
When do ya'll expect to send in the request to Hogue.
e'trode
Holster
Hey ya'll,
I picked up a pocket holster at Cabela's this week for only 12 dollars on sale. I figured it would last me for awhile until I ordered a Mika holster.
It is made by DeSantis and it works pretty good. I had my 642 in my pocket at work and no one could tell I was carrying while wearing a pair of blue jean shorts.
I'll get the Mika when I get around to it since no one should have only one holster.
e'trode
Hey ya'll,
I picked up a pocket holster at Cabela's this week for only 12 dollars on sale. I figured it would last me for awhile until I ordered a Mika holster.
It is made by DeSantis and it works pretty good. I had my 642 in my pocket at work and no one could tell I was carrying while wearing a pair of blue jean shorts.
I'll get the Mika when I get around to it since no one should have only one holster.
e'trode
Electrode,
What kinda speedloader is that? Those are stock grips, right? Are you able to use the speedloader...does it fit past the grip?
What kinda speedloader is that? Those are stock grips, right? Are you able to use the speedloader...does it fit past the grip?
Hey fire,
the speedloader is a HKS model 36. It doesn't fit completley past the stock grips with out some work.
However I have practiced and the rounds reach just past the half way point so they will fall right in the cylinder.
e'trode
the speedloader is a HKS model 36. It doesn't fit completley past the stock grips with out some work.
However I have practiced and the rounds reach just past the half way point so they will fall right in the cylinder.
e'trode
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