The M1 Garand Is An Overpriced Piece Of Junk
- Thread starter lwaldron
- Start date
- Status
Excitable chap, aren't you? 
You are either the ONLY gymnastic (flipping) person on this planet who can't use aperture sights, or you are over-reacting to something you aren't used to.
Want to guess which one I think it is?
You are either the ONLY gymnastic (flipping) person on this planet who can't use aperture sights, or you are over-reacting to something you aren't used to.
Want to guess which one I think it is?
I don't really like apeture sights either... and trying to get my 1903 on target at 200 yards felt like mortar fire.
I know I'm a better shot than that rifle makes me. I can split a bulls eye with a shotgun slug at 100 yards... and yet this old rifle throws a pattern of lead downrange that seems to have no relation to whatever adjustments I make to the sights.
I've read all about how the post and hole thing is superior... but I just don't like it. Never have, don't think I ever will.
I know I'm a better shot than that rifle makes me. I can split a bulls eye with a shotgun slug at 100 yards... and yet this old rifle throws a pattern of lead downrange that seems to have no relation to whatever adjustments I make to the sights.
I've read all about how the post and hole thing is superior... but I just don't like it. Never have, don't think I ever will.
Hey, JohnKSa
The ammo is LC-69.
I must be over-thinking this, but when one holds the little circle (the aperture) up to one's eye, there's nothing by which to measure the front post. I've read this business about how the top of the post is supposed to be in the "brightest part of the circle", but all parts of the circle seem equally bright.
I'm not trying to be difficult.
I'll say that again... I'm not trying to be difficult. I can use a scope where cross-hairs cross. But when I peer through this doughnut, it's awfully hard to tell where the center might be. It's NOT like peering through a toilet-paper roll. It's more like making that hand-gesture chefs do for "okay", looking through that, and saying, "Here's the point of impact."
The ammo is LC-69.
I must be over-thinking this, but when one holds the little circle (the aperture) up to one's eye, there's nothing by which to measure the front post. I've read this business about how the top of the post is supposed to be in the "brightest part of the circle", but all parts of the circle seem equally bright.
I'm not trying to be difficult.
I'll say that again... I'm not trying to be difficult. I can use a scope where cross-hairs cross. But when I peer through this doughnut, it's awfully hard to tell where the center might be. It's NOT like peering through a toilet-paper roll. It's more like making that hand-gesture chefs do for "okay", looking through that, and saying, "Here's the point of impact."
M2 Carbine
member
lwaldron
"You can also aim into the center of the bullseye, called a center hold."
Except my sights don't have those little dotted lines.
_________________________________________________________
Ok, here's what you do.
Tomorrow have someone come over your house and remove all guns, ammo, knives and powertools and anything else sharp.
Then sit down in front of your TV for the rest of your life.
Be warned if you try to bo ANYTHING else you will be operating beyound your mental capacity and may hurt yourself.
Have a nice day.
"You can also aim into the center of the bullseye, called a center hold."
Except my sights don't have those little dotted lines.
_________________________________________________________
Ok, here's what you do.
Tomorrow have someone come over your house and remove all guns, ammo, knives and powertools and anything else sharp.
Then sit down in front of your TV for the rest of your life.
Be warned if you try to bo ANYTHING else you will be operating beyound your mental capacity and may hurt yourself.
Have a nice day.
It only SEEMS like it's hard to center the post.
It's about as close to automatic as anything you'll do. You're actually CAUSING the problem by TRYING to center the post.
In one sense, shooting an aperture sight is almost the exact opposite of shooting open sights. With open sights, the alignment is CRITICAL. With aperture sights, trying to perfectly alight the post in the center of the sight will make it very hard for you to get good results.
JUST DO IT!
It's about as close to automatic as anything you'll do. You're actually CAUSING the problem by TRYING to center the post.
In one sense, shooting an aperture sight is almost the exact opposite of shooting open sights. With open sights, the alignment is CRITICAL. With aperture sights, trying to perfectly alight the post in the center of the sight will make it very hard for you to get good results.
JUST DO IT!
It must be a Zen
I'll give it a try. "These are not the droids you're seeking." "Move along."
Wednesday is my shooting day. Next Wednesday will be my birthday, so you can bet I'll be back on the line (what better way to celebrate?) . I'll return with the M1. I'll peer through the hole.
Has anyone had the experience of peering through the hole in a fence at a baseball game?
I'll give it a try. "These are not the droids you're seeking." "Move along."
Wednesday is my shooting day. Next Wednesday will be my birthday, so you can bet I'll be back on the line (what better way to celebrate?) . I'll return with the M1. I'll peer through the hole.
Has anyone had the experience of peering through the hole in a fence at a baseball game?
threefeathers
member
My gosh. In 1962 on the Berlin Brigade Rifle team I used a company grade M-1 to fire theo old rattle battle at the Erlangen range and hit 20 out of 20 at 1000 meters. I only placed 10th because I had fewer in the X ring than others. The M-1 is the most accurate rifle in your inventory!
I have all of the guns you describe and the only one that equals but does not surpass is my Swedish Mauser. The Swiss is close. I fired three Garand Matches in the past three years and the difference in folks I see are that those who are not familar with peep sights and quickly moving the sights to adjust for the wind get left behind.
Sell it to someone who likes it.
I have all of the guns you describe and the only one that equals but does not surpass is my Swedish Mauser. The Swiss is close. I fired three Garand Matches in the past three years and the difference in folks I see are that those who are not familar with peep sights and quickly moving the sights to adjust for the wind get left behind.
Sell it to someone who likes it.
RGO
Member
For what it's worth, here is an account of my first time shooting an M1.
http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=64296&highlight=cmp
I found the sights very easy to use, and very superior to notch iron sights. It has to be instinctual. Like some others have said, don't think too much. Look through the rear peep sight, center the front sight in the hole, and cover your target with the front post. I know this has been said by others, but that's really all there is to it.
Maybe for the "rifle" portion of my website (working on it) I will try to take some photos of how to use a peep sight.
http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=64296&highlight=cmp
I found the sights very easy to use, and very superior to notch iron sights. It has to be instinctual. Like some others have said, don't think too much. Look through the rear peep sight, center the front sight in the hole, and cover your target with the front post. I know this has been said by others, but that's really all there is to it.
Maybe for the "rifle" portion of my website (working on it) I will try to take some photos of how to use a peep sight.
Biff
Member
A few tips
1. Get a proper operator's manual.
2. Contact your local Highpower Club and get some training.
3. The screw on the left knob is a lock screw. Tighten it, and then go to the range. Once the rifle is sighted in at 200 yards, loosen the screw to turn the knob to index on the 200 yard marking, then tighten it again. Now you can make elevation adjustments for various distances.
4. Sounds like your rifle works perfectly. Educate yourself and enjoy it. An experienced highpower shooter can take your stock Garand and make groups of 12-18 inches at 600 yards!
1. Get a proper operator's manual.
2. Contact your local Highpower Club and get some training.
3. The screw on the left knob is a lock screw. Tighten it, and then go to the range. Once the rifle is sighted in at 200 yards, loosen the screw to turn the knob to index on the 200 yard marking, then tighten it again. Now you can make elevation adjustments for various distances.
4. Sounds like your rifle works perfectly. Educate yourself and enjoy it. An experienced highpower shooter can take your stock Garand and make groups of 12-18 inches at 600 yards!
Badger Arms
Member
So last Friday I'm out at the range with a Club M-1 Garand and Club ammo and I can put all 10 shots in the black from sitting, rapid fire. Piece of junk my behind!
The M-1 Garand Rifle was years ahead of its time. It was reliable, as accurate as the M1903, and could deliver devastating firepower on target.
Your dislike of the gun can be traced to a few things. First, you must not understand how to sight-in your rifle. Second, you might not know how to properly utilize an aperature site. No military experience? Third, you might not know how to properly lube the Garand. It requires grease in several spots to function properly. A well-lubed Garand will bite your thumb if you handle it improperly. Finally, you likely require more instruction to hit the propane tank at 100 yards.
Can't tell you the number of times I've picked up other's rifles, pistols, and revolvers and made a decent showing despite the fact that they said they were 'bum guns.' In reality, there are so many things that can be attributed to the shooter and so few that can be attributed to a tool as simple and robust as the Garand that it is ALMOST always the shooter's fault.
I agree with the above advice. The best advice is to get with your local CMP club and attend a High-Power clinic. Then, LISTEN TO WHAT YOU ARE TOLD. Not a knock on you, but you certainly don't need to insult the rifle. There are M-1's I've seen that shoot 6" groups or worse at 100 yards, but even that would hit your propane tank. Loose sights, lack of training, whatever it was it probably wasn't the gun's fault.
The M-1 Garand Rifle was years ahead of its time. It was reliable, as accurate as the M1903, and could deliver devastating firepower on target.
Your dislike of the gun can be traced to a few things. First, you must not understand how to sight-in your rifle. Second, you might not know how to properly utilize an aperature site. No military experience? Third, you might not know how to properly lube the Garand. It requires grease in several spots to function properly. A well-lubed Garand will bite your thumb if you handle it improperly. Finally, you likely require more instruction to hit the propane tank at 100 yards.
You rest the gun on its sights to clean it? Not sure many people would suggest you do that. Besides that, the rear sight MUST have been loose before you went to the range, right? Could it have been operator error. How did you know it was tight? Did you disassemble the rear sight assembly?
Can't tell you the number of times I've picked up other's rifles, pistols, and revolvers and made a decent showing despite the fact that they said they were 'bum guns.' In reality, there are so many things that can be attributed to the shooter and so few that can be attributed to a tool as simple and robust as the Garand that it is ALMOST always the shooter's fault.
I agree with the above advice. The best advice is to get with your local CMP club and attend a High-Power clinic. Then, LISTEN TO WHAT YOU ARE TOLD. Not a knock on you, but you certainly don't need to insult the rifle. There are M-1's I've seen that shoot 6" groups or worse at 100 yards, but even that would hit your propane tank. Loose sights, lack of training, whatever it was it probably wasn't the gun's fault.
FM- as though it were a radio
RGO: Yes, but, Stalingrad.
Biff: I do indeed have FM-whatever (don't have it right next to me) and FM-whatever+1. I thank you for your advice as to screwing and unscrewing (the way you've explained it is clearer). I wish there were a high-power club here. It's the Marines (Camp Pendleton), but they don't hang out with low-lifes like me. Besides, they're all overseas.
Badger Arms: The gun is indeed assembled correctly. I just can't see through it. How is it different than the view through a Leica?
Leaf & post is meaningful. Gazing through Stargate 57 is another thing, entirely.
RGO: Yes, but, Stalingrad.
Biff: I do indeed have FM-whatever (don't have it right next to me) and FM-whatever+1. I thank you for your advice as to screwing and unscrewing (the way you've explained it is clearer). I wish there were a high-power club here. It's the Marines (Camp Pendleton), but they don't hang out with low-lifes like me. Besides, they're all overseas.
Badger Arms: The gun is indeed assembled correctly. I just can't see through it. How is it different than the view through a Leica?
Leaf & post is meaningful. Gazing through Stargate 57 is another thing, entirely.
rayra
member
nice troll, lwaldron, masterfully done.
cracked butt
Member
1. change your oprod spring. The spring may have been inside a rifle for the last 20 years loosing its tension. You can order them from places like Fulton armory for about $3-4 ea, get a couple right away.
2. Grease the rifle- You can buy GI grease pots on places like ebay for about $.50 ea, or use some white lithium grease in a pinch. put lube on the bolt raceway, camming surface of the hammer, on the rear of the oprod where it rubs the barrel, the point where the oprod attaches to the bolt, etc- pretty much any place where you see the parkerization worn off except for in the trigger group.
3. Sight picture- focus on the front sight. you want to be looking through the rear sight not at it, you shouldn't even notice the rear sight. If you try centering the front post in the rear sight by focussing back and forth from the front sight to the rear sight, all will be lost- just think in your head, "front sight, front sight, front sight, squeaze trigger, front sight..."
4. If your M1 doesn't shoot better than a russian MN, you are definately doing something wrong. Find a coach, or a Garand clinic/ CMP match and ask for help.
5. sighting in- sight in at 25 yards to get on paper- this should get you pretty close at 100 yards. Remember that at 25 yards, you will have to click 4 times to get 1" of adjustment.
6. have a gunsmith or someone that knows what they are doing look at your rear sight- I can't tell you much, never had to mess with mine other than clicking it up or down for elevation.
7. Grab your gas cylinder and try wiggling it, if it wiggles alot, your gas cylinder plug probably worked its way loose. A little wobbling in the gas cylinder isnot ideal, but probably normal on an old rifle, but it won't cause gross inaccuracy.
2. Grease the rifle- You can buy GI grease pots on places like ebay for about $.50 ea, or use some white lithium grease in a pinch. put lube on the bolt raceway, camming surface of the hammer, on the rear of the oprod where it rubs the barrel, the point where the oprod attaches to the bolt, etc- pretty much any place where you see the parkerization worn off except for in the trigger group.
3. Sight picture- focus on the front sight. you want to be looking through the rear sight not at it, you shouldn't even notice the rear sight. If you try centering the front post in the rear sight by focussing back and forth from the front sight to the rear sight, all will be lost- just think in your head, "front sight, front sight, front sight, squeaze trigger, front sight..."
4. If your M1 doesn't shoot better than a russian MN, you are definately doing something wrong. Find a coach, or a Garand clinic/ CMP match and ask for help.
5. sighting in- sight in at 25 yards to get on paper- this should get you pretty close at 100 yards. Remember that at 25 yards, you will have to click 4 times to get 1" of adjustment.
6. have a gunsmith or someone that knows what they are doing look at your rear sight- I can't tell you much, never had to mess with mine other than clicking it up or down for elevation.
7. Grab your gas cylinder and try wiggling it, if it wiggles alot, your gas cylinder plug probably worked its way loose. A little wobbling in the gas cylinder isnot ideal, but probably normal on an old rifle, but it won't cause gross inaccuracy.
Diggler
Member
I imagine if you figure out how to ignore the rear peep and watch the front sight, then even your leaf/post shooting with handguns will vastly improve. If you're trying to align the leaf and post on your handgun, you're probably not shooting them as well as you could either.
I always understood the lack of cognitive processes required to accurately use a peep sight, but it took me a while to understand that it's the same premise with the tritium sights on my .45.
I always understood the lack of cognitive processes required to accurately use a peep sight, but it took me a while to understand that it's the same premise with the tritium sights on my .45.
Powderman
Member
I remember when I picked up an old Manual of Arms, and examined the data on the M1 rifle for the first time. I read it and re-read it over and over again, and gradually became convinced that if the time ever came that I would own one of my own.
Fast forward to 1998. I headed home with my new acquisition in my hands, a Springfield Armory receiver with a new GI barrel and hardware.
I refinished the stock first thing, then got a publication called "The M1 Rifle" from the NRA. From the directions inside I glass-bedded the rifle.
I remember the first time I loaded an en-bloc clip. The rounds were reloads-- 47.5 of IMR 4895 under a 150 grain FMJ bullet, in Lake City cases. I sat down at the bench, and remembered how to load from the old Manual of Arms--and a few tricks that were shown to me by some older guys who got a really wistful look in their eyes when they saw my rifle.
I pulled the rifle tight into my shoulder, assumed the proper eye-relief and cheek weld. There was a steel target at 100 yards--a thick piece of steel on a post, attached to a truck spring and a tire rim. I centered the target in the rear sight--then cut the sight picture in half with the front sight. Focusing on the front sight, I squeezed the trigger.
The rifle boomed, and rocked back in my shoulder. I saw a bright flash, a burst of sparks and heard another hollow boom as 150 grains of copper-jacketed lead hit the steel at about 2800 fps. I squeezed the trigger seven more times; with each squeeze there was a boom and a shower of sparks.
After the bolt locked to the rear, I lowered the rifle to the bench. This was what the Axis faced, as well as the North Koreans, and other enemies of this country. There was only one thought going through my mind at that moment:
"Obsolete, my ass!!"
Take time to learn the rifle, my friend. I have so far hit targets out to 300 yards, and have plans to shoot at longer ranges, as soon as I get the time to go to a longer range. This rifle will print 3/4 inch at 100 yards with 155 grain or 168 grain MatchKings. It is one of the most accurate rifles I own.
Fast forward to 1998. I headed home with my new acquisition in my hands, a Springfield Armory receiver with a new GI barrel and hardware.
I refinished the stock first thing, then got a publication called "The M1 Rifle" from the NRA. From the directions inside I glass-bedded the rifle.
I remember the first time I loaded an en-bloc clip. The rounds were reloads-- 47.5 of IMR 4895 under a 150 grain FMJ bullet, in Lake City cases. I sat down at the bench, and remembered how to load from the old Manual of Arms--and a few tricks that were shown to me by some older guys who got a really wistful look in their eyes when they saw my rifle.
I pulled the rifle tight into my shoulder, assumed the proper eye-relief and cheek weld. There was a steel target at 100 yards--a thick piece of steel on a post, attached to a truck spring and a tire rim. I centered the target in the rear sight--then cut the sight picture in half with the front sight. Focusing on the front sight, I squeezed the trigger.
The rifle boomed, and rocked back in my shoulder. I saw a bright flash, a burst of sparks and heard another hollow boom as 150 grains of copper-jacketed lead hit the steel at about 2800 fps. I squeezed the trigger seven more times; with each squeeze there was a boom and a shower of sparks.
After the bolt locked to the rear, I lowered the rifle to the bench. This was what the Axis faced, as well as the North Koreans, and other enemies of this country. There was only one thought going through my mind at that moment:
"Obsolete, my ass!!"
Take time to learn the rifle, my friend. I have so far hit targets out to 300 yards, and have plans to shoot at longer ranges, as soon as I get the time to go to a longer range. This rifle will print 3/4 inch at 100 yards with 155 grain or 168 grain MatchKings. It is one of the most accurate rifles I own.
wanderinwalker
Member
lwaldron,
To view through the doughnut, you must be fairly close to it. How far away are you holding your head? Perhaps you have something clogging the sight? Give it a check.
It is simple once you get a good view. Look at post. IGNORE aperture. ABSOLUTELY IGNORE IT!! Focus on that front post and put it under whatever you want to hit. Presto. My AR-15 has the exact same sight setup (just alot closer to my eyes), and I am shooting NRA Master-class scores with it out to 600-yards. Not once do you have to think about centering the front post in the aperture. If you think about it, it ruins the shot. Experience talking on that one.
Good luck and go to it. And if you still insist on giving up the Garand...
To view through the doughnut, you must be fairly close to it. How far away are you holding your head? Perhaps you have something clogging the sight? Give it a check.
It is simple once you get a good view. Look at post. IGNORE aperture. ABSOLUTELY IGNORE IT!! Focus on that front post and put it under whatever you want to hit. Presto. My AR-15 has the exact same sight setup (just alot closer to my eyes), and I am shooting NRA Master-class scores with it out to 600-yards. Not once do you have to think about centering the front post in the aperture. If you think about it, it ruins the shot. Experience talking on that one.
Good luck and go to it. And if you still insist on giving up the Garand...
molonlabe
Member
From the DCM mine shot 3 inch groups at 200 yards.
Swampy
Member
lwaldron,
Looks like you really stuck your Oscar Mayer back into the meat grinder with this topic title......
Actually, there's been lots of good advice from the guys.... particularly with how to shoot aperture sights.
Something to keep in mind..... You may not like aperture sights, but consider a couple of things:
1) Military Service Rifles: Since the end of WWI most every major military in the world (excepting the Soviet bloc) has converted their service rifle aiming system from open sights with a forward notch to a rear mounted aperture.
This trend began with the M1 Garand, Spfld '03-A3, and the Enfield No. 4 in the 30's. Since the 50's, I can't think of a single new military rifle design (again, excepting Sovie bloc) that does NOT have a rear mounted aperture. Cetme, FAL, HK, Galil, M14, AR15-M16, Valmet,..... many others too.
There must be a good REASON why all these military establishments went to the aperture over the forward mounted notch. It MUST be because it's a better arrangement because it can't be an issue of cost. The front notch is MUCH cheaper to manufacture (Notice the cost issue and remember the choice the Soviet bloc made with the AK series).
2) Competition: Nobody, and I mean NOBODY ever shoots a rifle with a front mounted notch in any form of serious (Serious: i.e. for the marbles, not casual) long range bullseye competition. Given a choice, don't you think these serious comp shooters are going to pick the system that is better??? Guess which one they believe that is......
It's not uncommon at an NRA Highpower match to see a good competitor shoot a perfect 200 score at 600 yds. with a VERY high "X" count. Remember that the 600 yd 10 ring is 2.0 MOA across and the center X ring is only 1.0 MOA. This with a rifle using a rear aperture.....
The accuracy of the rear mounted aperture for serious, accurate shooting is unequaled by ANY other "non-optical" system. Umpteen THOUSANDS of comp shooters prove this every year, at hundreds of CMP and NRA Highpower matches across the US. Even suggesting to a group of these shooters that one could do better with a forward mounted notch would get you laughed off the range... and-or pitied as someone who's been out in the Sun without his hat for too long.
lwaldron..... Don't give up on a superior system just because you don't have good luck with it at first. Learn how it's done. Get some instruction from competitors who DO know how to use the aperture sight. Last of all, practice what you've learned.
Best of luck to ya',
Swampy
Garands forever
Looks like you really stuck your Oscar Mayer back into the meat grinder with this topic title......
Actually, there's been lots of good advice from the guys.... particularly with how to shoot aperture sights.
Something to keep in mind..... You may not like aperture sights, but consider a couple of things:
1) Military Service Rifles: Since the end of WWI most every major military in the world (excepting the Soviet bloc) has converted their service rifle aiming system from open sights with a forward notch to a rear mounted aperture.
This trend began with the M1 Garand, Spfld '03-A3, and the Enfield No. 4 in the 30's. Since the 50's, I can't think of a single new military rifle design (again, excepting Sovie bloc) that does NOT have a rear mounted aperture. Cetme, FAL, HK, Galil, M14, AR15-M16, Valmet,..... many others too.
There must be a good REASON why all these military establishments went to the aperture over the forward mounted notch. It MUST be because it's a better arrangement because it can't be an issue of cost. The front notch is MUCH cheaper to manufacture (Notice the cost issue and remember the choice the Soviet bloc made with the AK series).
2) Competition: Nobody, and I mean NOBODY ever shoots a rifle with a front mounted notch in any form of serious (Serious: i.e. for the marbles, not casual) long range bullseye competition. Given a choice, don't you think these serious comp shooters are going to pick the system that is better??? Guess which one they believe that is......
It's not uncommon at an NRA Highpower match to see a good competitor shoot a perfect 200 score at 600 yds. with a VERY high "X" count. Remember that the 600 yd 10 ring is 2.0 MOA across and the center X ring is only 1.0 MOA. This with a rifle using a rear aperture.....
The accuracy of the rear mounted aperture for serious, accurate shooting is unequaled by ANY other "non-optical" system. Umpteen THOUSANDS of comp shooters prove this every year, at hundreds of CMP and NRA Highpower matches across the US. Even suggesting to a group of these shooters that one could do better with a forward mounted notch would get you laughed off the range... and-or pitied as someone who's been out in the Sun without his hat for too long.
lwaldron..... Don't give up on a superior system just because you don't have good luck with it at first. Learn how it's done. Get some instruction from competitors who DO know how to use the aperture sight. Last of all, practice what you've learned.
Best of luck to ya',
Swampy
Garands forever
Bartholomew Roberts
Member
Guys, we have a relatively new member here with 55 posts asking how to aim a rifle with a peep sight because they have not used one before. Even a quick review of his posts would show that he doesn't have a wide base of experience with firearms.
One of THRs main missions is to help all of us by introducing new shooters to the sport, not by yelling "troll" at them when they describe something they don't understand and ask for help. Put yourself in the shoes of a new shooter in a new community and think about how you would feel asking a question and getting such a response.
It is a wonder that anyone takes up shooting if some of the replies in this thread are typical of how you teach new shooters. I want THR to be a welcoming place for new shooters. Remember - think twice, post once.
lwaldron - peep sights can be frustrating at first. I learned on the traditional blade and notch style sights myself and was utterly mystified when I first tried them; but what some of the more polite members here are telling you is true. It is a very instinctive process and I think part of your difficulty may be simply that you don't have a lot of experience with peep sights. The peep sights on the M1 are some of the best out there.
While I don't like to recommend a lot of bench work, a bench or good rested setup can be useful here for learning what a proper sight picture should look like. A bench can help remove other variables and let you get used to what a good, consistent sight picture with a peep sight should look like.
One of THRs main missions is to help all of us by introducing new shooters to the sport, not by yelling "troll" at them when they describe something they don't understand and ask for help. Put yourself in the shoes of a new shooter in a new community and think about how you would feel asking a question and getting such a response.
It is a wonder that anyone takes up shooting if some of the replies in this thread are typical of how you teach new shooters. I want THR to be a welcoming place for new shooters. Remember - think twice, post once.
lwaldron - peep sights can be frustrating at first. I learned on the traditional blade and notch style sights myself and was utterly mystified when I first tried them; but what some of the more polite members here are telling you is true. It is a very instinctive process and I think part of your difficulty may be simply that you don't have a lot of experience with peep sights. The peep sights on the M1 are some of the best out there.
While I don't like to recommend a lot of bench work, a bench or good rested setup can be useful here for learning what a proper sight picture should look like. A bench can help remove other variables and let you get used to what a good, consistent sight picture with a peep sight should look like.
30Cal
Member
Don't "peer through the hole." Just focus on the front sight. Don't worry about finding the exact center of the peep. If I put a 8 1/2 x 11" sheet of paper in front of you, you'd be able to point to the center of it without a lot of mental work. Same concept.
From the field manual
From the field manual
Man-O-War
Member
As many other posters have pointed out, the peep sight is far superior to the leaf sight for both target rifles and battle rifles. It is a system that has proven itself and been adopted all around the world. You just need to take a little time to find out how it is used and then practice.
Somebody else has already pointed this out and it is good advice. Start out by shooting from a bench rest at 25 yards first. Then you can move it out to 100 yards. Keep shooting from the bench rest until you are comfortable with the peep sights and then try it from other positions.
Just my $.02.
Somebody else has already pointed this out and it is good advice. Start out by shooting from a bench rest at 25 yards first. Then you can move it out to 100 yards. Keep shooting from the bench rest until you are comfortable with the peep sights and then try it from other positions.
Just my $.02.
- Status
