"Does anyone think that the aluminum frame will hold up like the older steel frame Pedersen action handguns?"
It
probably isn't an issue. Or rather, it doesn't have to be. But that's a question of how well the parts were engineered. So long as the contact area is broad, there will be no peening, and as long as the parts are smooth/lubed there should be no galling or abrasion. I noticed my bolt/shoulder wore to mate each other pretty rapidly, but then have stayed mostly stable since then.
The problem I keep running into is that the bolt is so soft, its locking surface is peened outward by riding over the disconnector, this little raised bur digging into the aluminum shoulder of the frame. Granted, this is mostly evident on the top face of the frame, not the front where it matters, but I still don't like metal moving around like this.
Simply because the whole aluminum/steel thing seems to be a bridge too far for most folks (it just keeps coming up on the 'worries' list), I suggest they mill a pocket into the frame, and install a hardened steel locking shoulder like the FAL or BREN did. What I don't understand are people who have doubts on the aluminum/steel
rails. I thought numerous companies have been successfully doing aluminum lower frames for...decades
The funniest part of this whole thing is that it really doesn't matter in all likelihood, at least for less than 1000 rounds. There's been no indication the shoulder can wear enough to fail to stop the breechblock, so the gun
will lock up safely, and the way the Pedersen system works, if the locking face sets back even a massive .01" inside the gun, it would still function identically so long as the bolt can easily slip up and over the frame shoulder. Obviously neither of these things is good for long term durability, but it sounds like the action
should be far more resilient in the face of damage/deformation than, say, a 1911 whose lugs would peen/shear, then immediately Kaboom to inform the user something was wrong
TCB