Urgent: Cleaning Rod Stuck in Bore.

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You got it, brass is just copper and zinc (with some other trace alloys added for desired properties).

Would be a terrible choice.

Any ammonia bearing copper solvent strong enough to eat a brass cleaning rod 16" deep will ruin the barrel if left in it long enough to do it.
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That's why KG-12 was my first choice, but any ammonia based copper solvent left long enough to eat away a rod will cause some damage (I've never left any long enough to find out exactly how much and haven't any intentions of testing my luck), even a comparably weak one like Hoppe's No.9-BR. either way, it still beats throwing away a barrel that *might* be salvageable.

:)
 
Would there be much damage done if Hoppe's #9 is left in there, then, RC? The solvent was pretty thoroughly colored green after around 5 hours, but I slept on it, too, until around 2, but didn't change the solvent until around 3:30.
 
Would there be much damage done if Hoppe's #9 is left in there
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It, too, is ammonia based, and while it is much weaker than the aforementioned copper solvents will still do your bbl no good (it just takes longer to have the same effect). If it's standard No. 9 it would probably take several days for any detrimental effect to start to take place, if it's No. 9-Benchrest, a little quicker, but your still fine for a day or two (overnight is recommended for a copper laden barrel). That said, I believe it's a risk worth taking if you're ready to send it back for a re-bbl. OTOH KG-12 really would be a much safer choice, so you may want to look into purchasing some (it's good stuff anyway).

:)
 
LJ,
As for all things you've tried so far, have you gotten your $150.00 worth yet? I don't think I could have stayed with this project as long as you have! Send in to manuf., let them figure it out, then, remember to clean the bore more often than your friend did! Lessons for all of us here.
 
LJ-MosinFreak-Buck said:
I've also learned that cleaning rods are not going to be part of my tool kit any longer.


Sent from my MP3/Hands-Free/Web-Browsing Device
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If you want to get technical no kind of cleaning device nerds to be sent through a 22lr bore.

At this point I'd Yank the barrel. Replace it with an aftermarket unit and then get really rough with the plugged one.

Don't throw those rods away yet. You will need them for your centerfires
 
Well in my own firearms, my .22 Marlin is rarely cleaned, the most it sees is a bore-snake.

My long rifles all see a bore snake, too. Except on hard cleans. But I used all of my rods trying to get two out (bent or broke).

But of course, now I have a semi-auto that needs cared for. Who sells after market barrels for the 15-22?

Sent from my MP3/Hands-Free/Web-Browsing Device
 
I use bore snakes on most of my stuff too. Only my bolt actions receive very fine attention in a gun vice with the proper guides / etc.
 
NeuseRvrRat said:
i'll bite...

so how do you clean your .22LR bores? or do you just not clean them at all?
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If they don't get wet I don't touch em. As this thread illustrates to an extreme you'll do far more damage cleaning a 22 than you ever will shooting lubricated soft lead bullets through one.

Besides that I've not met a 22 yet that didn't shoot best with several dozen rounds through the tube vs clean

As you've learned segmented rods are garbage. Do yourself a massive favor and INVEST in a quality one piece rod.
 
Odd. I've used bore snakes nigh on 10 years now, several different calibers, center fire rifles and pistol, rimfire just the same. Never got a single one stuck, or broke.:scrutiny:
 
Well I've used cleaning rods for about 60 years and never got one of them stuck either.

Not saying I never will, but I really really doubt it!

rc
 
rcmodel said:
Well I've used cleaning rods for about 60 years and never got one of them stuck either.

Not saying I never will, but I really really doubt it!

rc
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I admit, I've not added any ideas on removing one from OPs barrel, as I've never lodged a rod either, nor am I even certain how that was done, unless an over sized patch was forced in and could go no further.
 
I'm thinking the barrel on the gun was very badly leaded.

Then when a new bore brush was forced in it, it became very tight.
Then pounding on the jointed rod swelled the joints like wedges inside the bore.
Then bad went from worse, to really really worse.

The more pounding, the tighter & tighter the joints became wedged in the bore.

rc
 
rcmodel said:
I'm thinking the barrel on the gun was very badly leaded.

Then when a new bore brush was forced in it, it became very tight.
Then pounding on the jointed rod swelled the joints like wedges inside the bore.
Then bad went from worse, to really really worse.

The more pounding, the tighter & tighter the joints became wedged in the bore.

rc
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That'd do it. I wasn't aware there was a brush on the end, thought jag and patch. If the rifling is peened, that barrel is a paper weight.
 
meanmrmustard said:
That'd do it. I wasn't aware there was a brush on the end, thought jag and patch. If the rifling is peened, that barrel is a paper weight.
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No just the barrel is.

You'd have to find some really substandard 22lr ammunition to actually lead a bore with the stuff. The only crap I know that'd do it would be the infamous Russian surok

Dollars to doughnuts a jag n tight fitting patch was attempted to be reversed in the bore. It stuck, the owner panicked and the cheap Chinese made toy cleaning kit rod split at a joint creating a wedge.
 
R.W.Dale said:
No just the barrel is.

You'd have to find some really substandard 22lr ammunition to actually lead a bore with the stuff. The only crap I know that'd do it would be the infamous Russian surok

Dollars to doughnuts a jag n tight fitting patch was attempted to be reversed in the bore. It stuck, the owner panicked and the cheap Chinese made toy cleaning kit rod split at a joint creating a wedge.
Click to expand...
I said the barrel if rifling is chewed up. Got me confused Dale...
 
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