Used Remington 1100

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CopperFouling

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A friend of mine is looking at a used Remington 1100 later today. He asked me for some advice on what to check for potential problems. I'm completely outside of my area of expertise there, as I have a grand total of zero experience handling or shooting one of those. Just from general experience handling shotguns, I was going to suggest
  • Checking the stock for cracks (it is a wood stock)
  • Checking the receiver and barrel for rust
  • Cycling the bolt by hand
  • Checking the bead
As I said, though, I have zero experience with 1100s, so advice is appreciated. Thanks.
 
I’m not that familiar with the 1100, but for any used shotgun I’ll bring at least one snap cap with the primer covered with electrical tape. I’ll see that the gun cycles and ejects the snap caps with no marks in the tape. Then do it again, pulling the trigger each time and look for a nice strong hole in the tape.
 
Pull the forestock off and check the O-ring and the steel gas ring that rides with it. O-rings are cheap. You can pull the barrel at the same time to look down and check for pitting. Gas systems that may have not been cleaned for a while will have some carbon built up on the tube where the rings operate. That can be cleaned and scraped off. Magazine tube can be neglected and get rusty causing failure to feed correctly as the spring binds up on the dry tube and rust, oil and some TLC can fix that. A good used 1100 will bring $500 plus right now in my area. Excellent ones I would offer up to $700 if it has choke tubes and vent rib barrel.
 
You've come to the right place. It's not always as easy as Armored Farmer says, but looking at a used one, you want to:

-Check the items on your list, that's a good start.
-Work the action: When pulling the bolt back does it bind? This could indicate a new recoil spring is needed, or unmatched wear in the receiver.
-Does the bolt latch back positively? If it doesn't latch, there are a few possible causes.
-Pull the barrel, and look at the outside of the mag tube; O-ring-Unless it's pristine replace it, and keep it for a back-up. Rings (Or ring if a very new model; It's a two piece, but one slides onto the other. The older separate rings are better.) They can be cleaned up, but should not have pits, or chunks broke off.
Get (bring) a rag and wipe the outside of the mag tube off. inspect the wear. It should be even, and consistent with the seller's story.
If allowed, pull the action bar/sleeve and bolt out. Inspect the locking block for cracks at the rear of the locking wedge.
None of these is a deal buster, but they will need attention/ repair if worn/broken, adjust your offer accordingly.

Some useful notes-
1100 receivers, if they are going to crack, almost always do so along the bolt operating handle cutout, from the end of it on back, and this is usually indicative of overpowered shells, or a very high round count. If it is cracked there, offer for parts value only.
1100 stocks usually don't crack unless the stock bolt is way overtorqued, and hot shells used. The forearms are fiberglass reinforced to prevent cracking like A-5 forearms.
If you find rust, external or internal, adjust price accordingly. If to be a field piece, it's not as critical. If you find pits, you might want to pass.
The bead is a non-issue. If it there, fine. If not, they are easy enough to do. They are also not necessary. The only reason one uses a bead is to check mount of the gun in those clays sport where one mounts the gun before calling for the bird. If the gun fits, even that's not necessary.
When you have the barrel off, check the gas ports; Magnum (3") guns should have one larger gas port, 2 3/4" guns, 2 smaller ports, and the barrel should match the receiver as to type. Magnum barrels on a 2 3/4" receiver may not function with ligther shells.
Perhaps @Virginian will stop by with much better advice than I .
 
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Thanks, all. He sent me a few pictures from the counter, and it had a fair amount of rust visible on the barrel and the receiver exterior. The shop still wanted $475 for it. I suggested that he pass, and he concurred.
 
You've come to the right place. It's not always as easy as Armored Farmer says, but looking at a used one, you want to:

-Check the items on your list, that's a good start.
-Work the action: When pulling the bolt back does it bind? This could indicate a new recoil spring is needed, or unmatched wear in the receiver.
-Does the bolt latch back positively? If it doesn't latch, there are a few possible causes.
-Pull the barrel, and look at the outside of the mag tube; O-ring-Unless it's pristine replace it, and keep it for a back-up. Rings (Or ring if a very new model; It's a two piece, but one slides onto the other. The older separate rings are better.) They can be cleaned up, but should not have pits, or chunks broke off.
Get (bring) a rag and wipe the outside of the mag tube off. inspect the wear. It should be even, and consistent with the seller's story.
If allowed, pull the action bar/sleeve and bolt out. Inspect the locking block for cracks at the rear of the locking wedge.
None of these is a deal buster, but they will need attention/ repair if worn/broken, adjust your offer accordingly.

Some useful notes-
1100 receivers, if they are going to crack, almost always do so along the bolt operating handle cutout, from the end of it on back, and this is usually indicative of overpowered shells, or a very high round count. If it is cracked there, offer for parts value only.
1100 stocks usually don't crack unless the stock bolt is way overtorqued, and hot shells used. The forearms are fiberglass reinforced to prevent cracking like A-5 forearms.
If you find rust, external or internal, adjust price accordingly. If to be a field piece, it's not as critical. If you find pits, you might want to pass.
The bead is a non-issue. If it there, fine. If not, they are easy enough to do. They are also not necessary. The only reason one uses a bead is to check mount of the gun in those clays sport where one mounts the gun before calling for the bird. If the gun fits, even that's not necessary.
When you have the barrel off, check the gas ports; Magnum (3") guns should have one larger gas port, 2 3/4" guns, 2 smaller ports, and the barrel should match the receiver as to type. Magnum barrels on a 2 3/4" receiver may not function with ligther shells.

Perhaps @Virginian will stop by with much better advice than I .

Thanks, @entropy, I will pass this along to him.
 
He made a good choice. Good guns but better offerings out there. I’ve had a couple and still have one. I always grab the 870.
 
Rust is an indicator to me a gun was not properly taken care of. My 1100s have been salt marsh hunting and were orange when I got home, but none of them have a spec of rust or pitting. If the humidity is above 40% you can wipe my BSS with a clean oiled white patch and it will always come away brown, but it is spotless too. If what you can see doesn't look good, what you can't see is almost sure to be worse.
 
I keep and extra o-ring and a packet of lube under the but plate of all mine except one I only use for gun games.

Other than what was stated above, I’d also get another forend support for a spare and make sure the flat tab isn’t broken of the one on the rifle, it’s a common part to break and many will run with the part broken.

My wife’s LT-20 is one of my favorite 1100’s but get it how you want it as changing it isn’t as easy as some of the other models.
 
1100s are smooth shooters.

They use an O-ring which gets them labeled as obsolete by some, but they’re a simple and robust action that tames recoil very nicely.
 
A friend of mine is looking at a used Remington 1100 later today. He asked me for some advice on what to check for potential problems. I'm completely outside of my area of expertise there, as I have a grand total of zero experience handling or shooting one of those. Just from general experience handling shotguns, I was going to suggest
  • Checking the stock for cracks (it is a wood stock)
  • Checking the receiver and barrel for rust
  • Cycling the bolt by hand .
Note that when you retract the bolt on most 1100s it will lock to the rear. Press the silver or black rectangular button on the lifter to release it. Keep your fingers out of the way ;)
 
Just a word of advice to the new 1100 owner:

If your 1100 has the piston ring, piston and o-ring gas seals, take a picture of the arrangement and how each is aligned before you take it apart.

I got a great deal on this 1100 LT-20 because it wouldn’t cycle correctly for the previous owner.

Since every 1100 I own gets a new o-ring anyway (they’re cheap), when I replaced it I noticed the arrangement didn’t look right. Sure enough, these parts will go in backwards and fit. When backwards the action will not properly cycle. Once I rearranged them into the right order, the gun works perfectly :thumbup:.

Piston seal, piston, o-ring. Note the directions of the pistol seal and piston, those can be reversed:

7BF9204C-3777-4338-8F27-A57DCFD88C2A.jpeg

All fit together:
675DA4E8-5A9A-43DE-839B-FAAC2B12D4E8.jpeg


I have had a few 1100’s; two 12’s, the LT-20 and a .410, and even my Dads old Sportsman 58 12 ga. which is the parent gun of the 1100. I swear he shot a couple of Jeep Wagoneer loads of desert quail with his old 58, and his later 1100, over the decades he (then we) hunted the desert hills of Mojave County, Az and Clark County, Nv.

The 1100 is my favorite shotgun design, even if the design is nearly 60 years old (Its debut was in 1963 I believe). To me they just feel right. :thumbup:

Stay safe.
 
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I’ve got an 1100 12 gauge that I bought new in 1979.
I’ve not done anything to it. Nothing, and it shoots great. Killed my first deer with it and a bunch of doves and quail.
I bought an LT20 last year but haven’t shot it.
 
Want to sell it?
I could purchase an LT-20 1100 right now for $700. Could possibly get it down to $650 +/-. It's in excellent shape and I don't think it's been shot much. It's very nice. I like it very much even though it is very small. I thought it would be great for my wife but she tried to shoot a couple rounds of trap with it and it didn't go well so I can't really justify buying it for her, but the fanatic in me wants to buy it just because.....
 
I think your friend may have missed a diamond in the rough at $475... You didn't specify gauge or barrel length, but a semi-auto shooter 12 gauge with 26" barrel with a little surface rust would get $600 around here, an LT-20 a little more I would think.

My 11-87 12ga was a rusty piece when I found it at a pawn shop, but when the barrel stamp showed it to be a 1987 parkerized Sportsman, it came home with me for $450. The "rust" wiped off with an oiled rag and it looks and shoots great.
 
I could purchase an LT-20 1100 right now for $700. Could possibly get it down to $650 +/-. It's in excellent shape and I don't think it's been shot much. It's very nice. I like it very much even though it is very small. I thought it would be great for my wife but she tried to shoot a couple rounds of trap with it and it didn't go well so I can't really justify buying it for her, but the fanatic in me wants to buy it just because.....

......just because it is one of the best pheasant and small game guns ever made.
 
I think your friend may have missed a diamond in the rough at $475... You didn't specify gauge or barrel length, but a semi-auto shooter 12 gauge with 26" barrel with a little surface rust would get $600 around here, an LT-20 a little more I would think.

My 11-87 12ga was a rusty piece when I found it at a pawn shop, but when the barrel stamp showed it to be a 1987 parkerized Sportsman, it came home with me for $450. The "rust" wiped off with an oiled rag and it looks and shoots great.
I went to a show yesterday. Average 1100s were going for $700 and up.
 
Here’s my standard 20ga 1100 that my dad picked up used for me 45+ years ago. It’s been a great gun and still use it once in a while. I asked my son what gun of mine he wouldn’t want me to ever sell, this is the one he picked. 25BBA9FC-9C8C-49B7-B3D7-7A218366FC6B.jpeg
 
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