Walker re-assembly issue

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John L Venable

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Hi guys,

I just disassembled a brand new Uberti Walker to give it an initial cleaning and going over before
I ship it to Goons Guns, I also de-blued the cylinder. Now, the Darn thing won't go back together! I have the Wedge out as far as it will go, it feels like the arbor is hanging up on the wedge or a burr? Anyone else experience this, the barrel just wont seat on the frame! IMG_0061.jpg
 
Have you tried pulling the wedge out completely? I never leave the wedge sticking in partly in the barrel...i just pull the whole thing out. Im thinking the end of ur arbor is bumping into the tip/side of the wedge.
 
Got on the Phone with Mike at Goons, was gonna ship it to him tomorrow anyway. Sending it disassembled in bubble
wrap :)He'll get it straight with the full service tune up.
 
Is this your only open top? The little spring tip is most likely catching on the barrel slot and not coming as far out as it should. Take the barrel back off and look in the arbor hole. If that is OK then the barrel fit may be still tight, don't expect the wedge to pull things together tap the barrel home first..
 
Pull the wedge out completely. Put the hammer at half-cock. Release the load lever from the latch. Use the load lever to move the barrel from the frame using whatever hand pressure you can exert. Once it moves and the barrel moves out, apply prodigious amount of Ballistol or just plain gun oil on the affected surfaces. You should have no more problems.

Jim
 
44 Dave said:
Is this your only open top? The little spring tip is most likely catching on the barrel slot and not coming as far out as it should. Take the barrel back off and look in the arbor hole. If that is OK then the barrel fit may be still tight, don't expect the wedge to pull things together tap the barrel home first..
Click to expand...
Did tap the barrel home, cylinder locked up, removed wedge completely still no Joy. I have another walker a 51 Navy, 60 Army, 61 Navy, 49 Pocket.. this one's just being difficult. It was going to Goons tomorrow in any case. After this gets back i'm going to send him the 51 Navy.
 
I have two recently manufactured Uberti 2nd Model Dragoons and a new Uberti Walker. All three are similar to what you describe. Don't know if this is intentional by Uberti for these big horse pistols, but after some light polishing on the end of the arbors it is no longer an issue. Ubertis smaller models--51, 60, 61-- don't seem to be fitted this tight.
 
Navy Six 2 said:
I have two recently manufactured Uberti 2nd Model Dragoons and a new Uberti Walker. All three are similar to what you describe. Don't know if this is intentional by Uberti for these big horse pistols, but after some light polishing on the end of the arbors it is no longer an issue. Ubertis smaller models--51, 60, 61-- don't seem to be fitted this tight.
Click to expand...
Thanks, this goes into the acquired knowledge bank :)
 
Someone recently posted about having a similar problem with a new Uberti 1861.
He had to use a lot of force to remove the barrel and then couldn't get it back on.
He ended up polishing the arbor and the arbor hole which helped to allow it to be re-assembled.
He said that it was like it was pounded together with a mallet, and to top it off it had 5 nipples which were too short to fire a cap.
 
Just got an Uberti Dragoon with same tight arbor issue. The wedge slides easy enough but doesn't immediately move completely out. Have to give an extra pull. I lightly sanded the arbor till the bluing was gone. Had machining rings/lines around it. Put black on it with marker and pushed it together. Took a mallet to get it apart. Fine filed where the black was scratched, which was most of the surface. Repeated till it could be pulled apart with some pulling but not so much that it cause me to dang near throw half of it accross the room. Appears most of the issue was at the extreme front end. Almost like a tapper lock. Regreased it and now it is just snug and comes apart smoothly.
An ASM walker I got was a different story. Apparently the slot was not properly deburred. After shooting it it did not want to come apart. Once I got it apart there were nubs at the front of the slot from the pressure on the wedge. Had to use mallet till frame pins cleared and then I could twist it some which I think helped to collapse the nubs just enough to get it apart. Filed down the nubs and back in biz.
 
skeeterfogger said:
Just got an Uberti Dragoon with same tight arbor issue. The wedge slides easy enough but doesn't immediately move completely out. Have to give an extra pull. I lightly sanded the arbor till the bluing was gone. Had machining rings/lines around it. Put black on it with marker and pushed it together. Took a mallet to get it apart. Fine filed where the black was scratched, which was most of the surface. Repeated till it could be pulled apart with some pulling but not so much that it cause me to dang near throw half of it accross the room. Appears most of the issue was at the extreme front end. Almost like a tapper lock. Regreased it and now it is just snug and comes apart smoothly.
An ASM walker I got was a different story. Apparently the slot was not properly deburred. After shooting it it did not want to come apart. Once I got it apart there were nubs at the front of the slot from the pressure on the wedge. Had to use mallet till frame pins cleared and then I could twist it some which I think helped to collapse the nubs just enough to get it apart. Filed down the nubs and back in biz.
Click to expand...

"Italian kit guns" We could't afford them if they were fit and tuned to the max.
 
Well John, your are coming out smelling like a rose!!! You're spending less than what has had a link supplied for and you're getting:
- a corrected arbor (they have that) with an adjustable wedge bearing (they don't).
- I install a cap post, they have their own solution.
- I install an action stop (extremely important for parts life), a bolt block (which prohibits throw-by, protects the bolt, and the cylinder notches), adjust the cam height for increased reliability/aids in life of the bolt arm, contour action surfaces to insure lifetime wear and insure engagement, set textbook timing, set barrel/cyl clearance to .0025"-.003", convert the flat springs to coil/torsion and a compression coil for the hand for "lifetime of the revolver " duty, harden the screws and fire blue them. They don't. They install someone else's aftermarket springs.

The action is actually my own action setup which turns out to be somewhat close to a Freedom Arms action. My serviced revolvers will easily compare to those costing $1500- $2000+ revolvers! They are the most mechanically accurate revolvers many have ever owned.
You won't out run it, you won't break it!! This applies to the Remington pattern and Ruger 3 screws as well.

Congratulations John!!!

Some folks don't understand or appreciate the difference between a Toyota and a Rolls . . . . and that's OK .

Mike
 
Last edited:
Didn't mean to "slam the door" on this thread (if it was taken that way).
I just wanted to point out that the Italian offerings are truly an excellent platform to build what can be a very fine revolver! USFA built some very fine Colt SAA copies starting with Uberti's.
A frame, a barrel assy, some action parts that can be "massaged", teaching from the most knowledgeable S.A. tuner alive today, some of my own techniques and ideas thrown in . . .

44Dave is correct when he posted about the price point and what you get. I understand some folks are fine with the " throw away " price these come with. But, a lot of folks like something better than "run of the mill" so, they do things that improve the function and thus the experience. Some are competition shooters, some are weekend shooters, many are folks that want the "best they can get". That's what I offer, that's what I do . . . .

Mike
 
The problem was found to be an "extended nipple", nipple protrusion interruptus, nip interference, extreme cone extension . . . . well, you get the picture . . . .
Apparently a loose nipple/cone worked loose enough to make contact with the recoil shield and prevent the installation of the cyl and barrel assy. Being " cleverly " disguised, it's easy to see how that can frustrate an unsuspecting owner . . . . .

Fear not John, for I shall rectify the problem and commence the "Outlaw Mule" service on your Walker in due time!!
Thanks again,

Mike
 
45 Dragoon said:
The problem was found to be an "extended nipple", nipple protrusion interruptus, nip interference, extreme cone extension . . . . well, you get the picture . . . .
Apparently a loose nipple/cone worked loose enough to make contact with the recoil shield and prevent the installation of the cyl and barrel assy. Being " cleverly " disguised, it's easy to see how that can frustrate an unsuspecting owner . . . . .

Fear not John, for I shall rectify the problem and commence the "Outlaw Mule" service on your Walker in due time!!
Thanks again,

Mike
Click to expand...
Live and Learn.... I was looking in all the wrong places.
 
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